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Okay, I'm thinking about trying tumbling cartridge brass with steel pins. I understand that it's done in a liquid medium so makes sense that a lapidary-type drum tumbler is required. Is there a formula for figuring out how many pounds of pins to buy for a given tumbler capacity? What kind of liquid is used, just water? How much can I expect to pay for a basic but not too small outfit? I'm not keen on doing this for small batches, like 50 at a time. Any other tips? Thanks.
 
I started out with the Harbor Freight Dual tumbler but after using it a couple of times I went to the Frankford Arsenal tumbler. This one worked well but just did not hold enough brass for me. It just sits on a shelf.

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Once you go wet, you will not go back. Then the slippery slope of making the absolute best shiniest brass just because you can starts!

I like clean brass. The one thing I don't like about steel pins, is they can get lodged inside the case. I've seen it in used brass I've bought. Just be careful. I wouldn't want to fire a steel pin through any of my barrels. It could play havoc on a good rifle barrel. I'll keep using media:
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The brass comes out clean enough for me... My rifles don't complain either..:rolleyes:
 
I moved away from Stainless pins. I use stainless chips now. They don't get stuck in the flash pockets or in the brass like pins can.

However when I did use pins and still, I have the first station on my D1050 with a universal decapping die. Anything not ment to be in the case is quickly ID'ed before it can be loaded.

Stainless Chips are from Ammobrass.com

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I use one of the harbor freight tumblers like the one posted earlier with water, ss pins, and simple green cleaner.

Not for brass, but for rim fire suppressor baffles, it works awesome!
 
For folks thinking on wet tumbling, but not really wanting to spend the $ for a Franklin or whatever, the harbor freight unit does pretty decent.

A simple home made tube drum for the HF is easy, and reasonably inexpensive to do as well.

Home made drum like such:


I glued a cut section of PVC inside the drum I made, to act as a tumbler aid. Like a paddle. Keeps the brass and chips from just rolling along the inside of the drum en mass.

Videos of making a drum for the HF unit are also on line.
 
I've never understood this Uber clean brass trend.
My current lot of 260 brass has already killed 1 barrel and is over halfway through another.

It has been tumbled maybe three or four times if it gets muddy or I need to recut the neck/shoulder junction and deepen the primer pockets

It's not like accuracy or SD is a problem for me.
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What are you talking about? You're low and right..... :rolleyes:




o_O:D
 
If you go this way don't go cowboy with the lemishine and soap. A little bit goes a long way for clean, shinny brass.

Your first batch you will see all of the black crap in dirty water that you dospose of.
After I drain the dirty water off I add clean water & swish it around & dump it then add clean water again and let it go another ten minutes on the tumble.
The water will be gray. You will have really clean brass.
With walnut hulls or corncob media your never get rid of the waste you will see in the dirty water.

Be advised you will find them little stainless steel pins places you never thought they would be.
A magnet with a release is needed.

I use a cap of armorall wash & wax & about half a teaspoon of lemishine.
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