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You had originally quoted my post #16 so not in the least, Mr. Obvious.
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Yup, quoted the wrong one and had to go back and delete it. Sorry chief.
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Light strikes are not restricted to ammo, don't just assume that's the correct route to check.
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But you are assuming that there are light strikes when it was reported that there were misfires.
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I guess i missed the part where the OP explained what was meant by misfire.
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No wonder I couldn't hit squat with my buddy's Sig P226 when I shot it. I had just switched from my AR at the range using a 6 o'clock hold. I thought it was my eyes...
Bruts Out
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- #30
Misfire: hammer falls and primer doesn't ignite...
I only tried the rounds once, so it could be a light strike.
Just to clarify...
Apparently over lubing with oil will cause light strikes, as suggested. All reports so far suggest Blazer Brass aluminum is great amo. Only suggested flaw is that it doesn't reload, and frankly, I prefer the look and feel of brass better. Also, it has one key issue at PSTC, the price! It's 18$ a box there. LoL
I only tried the rounds once, so it could be a light strike.
Just to clarify...
Apparently over lubing with oil will cause light strikes, as suggested. All reports so far suggest Blazer Brass aluminum is great amo. Only suggested flaw is that it doesn't reload, and frankly, I prefer the look and feel of brass better. Also, it has one key issue at PSTC, the price! It's 18$ a box there. LoL
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You are assuming they were caused by light strikes, not faulty ammo.
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Yup, but it's no worse than assuming bad ammo
Flymph - Yes, don't get oil in the firing channel, area, section thingy, should be oiled and wiped dry.
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I purchased a 225 with a threaded barrel and raised sights for over a grand and I have the same problems plus.....
When I received my 225 I went to clean it and it was all s dirty as when I put off cleaning for a while, a long while! I complained to Sig and they told me it was typical to be so dirty. I was also told that I was shooting incorrectly which is why the slide wouldn't lock open. It was also not on target......!
My Sig 938 was neither dirty nor had/has had an issue with the slide and if anything was susceptible to not locking, it would be the 938.
Sig sent me a packing slip and had me send it in. I received an email telling me the 225 was in perfect condition and went on to say it was complementary sonic cleaned and that I was firing it incorrectly. I received it back from Sig and low and behold the free sonic cleaning must have been done with dirty, oily sand because it dirtied a perfectly clean towel, maybe I cleaned it incorrectly also.....
I took it with me to our local police station, with a policeman that was helping me shoot it correctly and poof; it still wouldn't lock open. Maybe my mentor policeman friend that teaches tactical shooting had me hold it incorrectly because it locked open only once.
Along with everything else the inside of the slide has worn off a lot of the guns protective finish already so I can't even unload the gun with a truthful statement that I've only fired it 64 times, (4 mags worth, twice). I have a gun that was made and retooled instead of it being destroyed. Oh yeah, it's off target, but Sig says it's within tolerance. I'll just ask the home invader to wait until I figure Out how to many inches I need to compensate before he shoots me. I love my 938 and I had fallen in love with the feel of the 225 but I just received a bad gun. I think that Sig has a bigger ego than good customer service.
Anyone want to buy a perfectly new problem gun, it's only $1,050? But you don't get top dollar quality to go with the top dollar price; as long as your taste is within tolerance, you'd be fine.......
Long live Sig, but my 225 died on the factory floor!
When I received my 225 I went to clean it and it was all s dirty as when I put off cleaning for a while, a long while! I complained to Sig and they told me it was typical to be so dirty. I was also told that I was shooting incorrectly which is why the slide wouldn't lock open. It was also not on target......!
My Sig 938 was neither dirty nor had/has had an issue with the slide and if anything was susceptible to not locking, it would be the 938.
Sig sent me a packing slip and had me send it in. I received an email telling me the 225 was in perfect condition and went on to say it was complementary sonic cleaned and that I was firing it incorrectly. I received it back from Sig and low and behold the free sonic cleaning must have been done with dirty, oily sand because it dirtied a perfectly clean towel, maybe I cleaned it incorrectly also.....
I took it with me to our local police station, with a policeman that was helping me shoot it correctly and poof; it still wouldn't lock open. Maybe my mentor policeman friend that teaches tactical shooting had me hold it incorrectly because it locked open only once.
Along with everything else the inside of the slide has worn off a lot of the guns protective finish already so I can't even unload the gun with a truthful statement that I've only fired it 64 times, (4 mags worth, twice). I have a gun that was made and retooled instead of it being destroyed. Oh yeah, it's off target, but Sig says it's within tolerance. I'll just ask the home invader to wait until I figure Out how to many inches I need to compensate before he shoots me. I love my 938 and I had fallen in love with the feel of the 225 but I just received a bad gun. I think that Sig has a bigger ego than good customer service.
Anyone want to buy a perfectly new problem gun, it's only $1,050? But you don't get top dollar quality to go with the top dollar price; as long as your taste is within tolerance, you'd be fine.......
Long live Sig, but my 225 died on the factory floor!
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If you grease your 226 like you oiled it the first time, you might run into even more trouble.
I'd stick with oil. Oil the frame rails only, oil where the slide runs over the barrel hood and the lightly in the barrel bushing at the front. These are your major points of friction. I also put some oil on the polished strip inside the slide under the firing pin. Never put oil in the firing pin channel as you are essentially forcing the main spring and Hammer to push all that oil out of the channel. Use a dry lube like hornady one shot on the firing pin when you detail strip the gun.
I also use one shot on my slide rails but some folks here might not think it's enough lubricant.
I like one shot because it's nearly fool proof. Spray on too much and it dries up. Then you wipe it off. Done.
I'd stick with oil. Oil the frame rails only, oil where the slide runs over the barrel hood and the lightly in the barrel bushing at the front. These are your major points of friction. I also put some oil on the polished strip inside the slide under the firing pin. Never put oil in the firing pin channel as you are essentially forcing the main spring and Hammer to push all that oil out of the channel. Use a dry lube like hornady one shot on the firing pin when you detail strip the gun.
I also use one shot on my slide rails but some folks here might not think it's enough lubricant.
I like one shot because it's nearly fool proof. Spray on too much and it dries up. Then you wipe it off. Done.
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The last Blazer aluminum I shot felt pretty weak. Some of the casings only went about a foot to the right. Not normal for my 226. While I do like CCI and Blazer brass I avoid the aluminum. Try some Sellior Bellot. The 115 grain shoots at 1280 fps and 421 foot pounds of energy. Around $200 per 1000 rounds online. Or use Blazer Brass. Good luck.
- Thread Starter
- #36
SO, if ya'll are wondering... I took some advice and after cleaning the pin out with gun scrubber and canned air, as well as the rest of the oil off the gun, it performed near flawlessly.
My accuracy needs work, but I'm only 200 rounds of 9mm in, and the slide locked back on an empty mag 8 of 10 times. The fails may have been grip or tight springs, but at the rate I have seen improvement I don't mind. I was doing some quick fire in the woods, ya know, having fun with it... I figure next time it will be 10/10 on the mag issue. No misfires, no jams. I did catch two or three cartridges in the face tho... happened like 20 times at PSTC. All in all I'm glad it was my inexperience and not a defect in the firearm.
Shooting Blazer Brass and Magtech 115gr brass casing (I'll shoot the 124 I bought next time out).
I might get sellier & bellow once I start running low, I like the gold look too. Thx
PS: I don't think it was limp wrist either!
Thanks all for your advice and consideration!
My accuracy needs work, but I'm only 200 rounds of 9mm in, and the slide locked back on an empty mag 8 of 10 times. The fails may have been grip or tight springs, but at the rate I have seen improvement I don't mind. I was doing some quick fire in the woods, ya know, having fun with it... I figure next time it will be 10/10 on the mag issue. No misfires, no jams. I did catch two or three cartridges in the face tho... happened like 20 times at PSTC. All in all I'm glad it was my inexperience and not a defect in the firearm.
Shooting Blazer Brass and Magtech 115gr brass casing (I'll shoot the 124 I bought next time out).
I might get sellier & bellow once I start running low, I like the gold look too. Thx
PS: I don't think it was limp wrist either!
Thanks all for your advice and consideration!
Last Edited:
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If you really drenched the gun in oil like you said, you probably should field strip it, degrease it, and relube it with just the thinnest coat of oil to protect the steel and then add a drop of oil on the lubrication points identified in the owners manual. In addition to the owners manual, Sig has some excellent videos on line showing proper lubrication of their weapons. Sigs allegedly like to "run wet" but that means something vastly different than it sounds - just an extra drop of oil here and there. Grease is an alternative, but in reality most quality gun oil is just as good. If you did get oil in the firing pin channel, you're probably going to have to take out the firing pin and spring and blast out the firing pin channel with some compressed air. A light coating of oil on the firing pin itself is plenty of lubrication, although most people run guns for years and never actually lube the firing pin. Not that hard to do, but if you're not gun savvy you might think about taking it to a gunsmith or an experienced friend to help you get it cleaned out. The failures to lock back are probably due to you either riding the slide (touching it with your thumb while cycling) or putting pressure on the slide lock. If it's a used gun, I suppose the problem could be weak mag springs, a worn follower, or having the mag springs in reversed or upside down, but I'd bet on limp wristing myself. As people said, let an experienced shooter take a turn with it. My daughter had a Ruger LC380 that jammed on her every third shot. I literally couldn't get it to jam through dozens of magazines. Her grip took just enough off of the slide cycling that it wasn't powerful enough to ride the rounds into the chamber. Good luck, though. They're great firearms.
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Sorry, didn't see your final post. Glad things are working better.
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