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Ammo Manufacturer - Military Ballistics Industries
Bullets -.40 S&W 180 grain full metal jacket (FMJ)
Ammo Casings - Boxer primed once-fired brass
I'm about 200rounds in to the case. So far one ftf, only other thing is accuracy. It's been great for testing my skills but not the guns ( accuracy). For those that care hope it helps, I'll post again at the 500round mark if anybody wants.

.32cents per round
 
Ammo Manufacturer - Military Ballistics Industries
Bullets -.40 S&W 180 grain full metal jacket (FMJ)
Ammo Casings - Boxer primed once-fired brass
I'm about 200rounds in to the case. So far one ftf, only other thing is accuracy. It's been great for testing my skills but not the guns ( accuracy). For those that care hope it helps, I'll post again at the 500round mark if anybody wants.

.32cents per round
Keep us posted.
 
Got about another 150 rounds down range. Had one round ftf, primer didn't have a mark. Tried it again in deferent piece, it fired but stove piped. After further inspection case was split.
Training with this ammo has made me pay way closer attention to the feel of the gun. Biggest worry is getting got by a squlb. I usually use higher end stuff but I like these, they force me to pay attention to all the details.
 
Nothing like filling a clip with reloads, that you did your self and the bullet falls out of the cartridge. Yup, it can happen. Than the tedious checking all reloads you have done, turns out that it was only one that did not crimp.
 
Got about another 150 rounds down range. Had one round ftf, primer didn't have a mark. Tried it again in deferent piece, it fired but stove piped. After further inspection case was split.
Training with this ammo has made me pay way closer attention to the feel of the gun. Biggest worry is getting got by a squlb. I usually use higher end stuff but I like these, they force me to pay attention to all the details.
I realize your almost half way through your case, keep us up to date. I've been looking for some practice ammo to use. Thanks.
 
Freedom Munitions has .40 on hand once in awhile. Just need to keep checking. Price is probably closer to 28 cents per round for reman. I, and others in this area, have shot thousands of rounds this ammo in 9mm without problems. I don't work for them or anything like that, it's just that I've really had good luck with FM. They're relatively local to the NW since they're in Idaho. http://www.freedommunitions.com/#&panel1-2
 
Freedom Munitions has .40 on hand once in awhile. Just need to keep checking. Price is probably closer to 28 cents per round for reman. I, and others in this area, have shot thousands of rounds this ammo in 9mm without problems. I don't work for them or anything like that, it's just that I've really had good luck with FM. They're relatively local to the NW since they're in Idaho. http://www.freedommunitions.com/#&panel1-2
Thanks for the tip! I got maybe three to four weekends to go with this lot, I'll keep an eye on FM and order. Hopefully they sell a shock collar for my trigger finger, it keeps pushing my shots to the left.LOL
 
Got some more down range this weekend, not a problem one with the ammo.
I have a issue of shooting upwards of 5" left at ten yards on a quick draw & shoot. Funny I get good groups just left of bulls eye. On a slow cadence I'm right on. What has worked for you guys that have had this same deal going on.
 
Got some more down range this weekend, not a problem one with the ammo.
I have a issue of shooting upwards of 5" left at ten yards on a quick draw & shoot. Funny I get good groups just left of bulls eye. On a slow cadence I'm right on. What has worked for you guys that have had this same deal going on.
See if this helps any:
Pistol-shooting-chart.jpg
 
My experience has been that I'm probably the culprit in most inaccuracy issues. I try to shoot from a stable rest and really concentrate on smooth trigger pull before making a final decision to change the sights or blame the ammo. Having someone else shoot the gun is also an option so you can get their opinion. Assuming of course, that they have a skill level above yours.

That doesn't mean that some ammo isn't more accurate than others. My M&P seems to be more accurate with 124g HP and 147g FMJ, than with 115g ammo. And my comment about the gun shooting low and left until it got broken in, was a reference to my own skill level, and not the guns accuracy.:)
 
What matters in any confrontation is reliability. Regardless of where the ammo comes from (manufacturer) you KNOW where it is going, into your gun. It sounds like you are shooting a S&W M&P in .40. Fine weapon, but, all magazune fed handguns need to do two things reliably: (1.) headspace on the crimp; (2.) feed from the magazine,. Rega
If
Regardless of where the ammo comes from, get yourself a Dillon on Wilson case gauge and check that each round enters and reliably falls free from the gauge. That the OAL is correct. Then check that the crimp the manufacturer put on the rounds works in your chamber, or better yet, run each round thru your Golden taper crimp setup.
takes more time, but you will like the results in training and combat much better.
Lead reloads often have wax on the outside on the case that can impede movement from the magazine to the chamber and negatively effect chambering at all.Run these thru your tumbler before using, then thru your case gauge.
 
What matters in any confrontation is reliability. Regardless of where the ammo comes from (manufacturer) you KNOW where it is going, into your gun. It sounds like you are shooting a S&W M&P in .40. Fine weapon, but, all magazune fed handguns need to do two things reliably: (1.) headspace on the crimp; (2.) feed from the magazine,. Rega
If
Regardless of where the ammo comes from, get yourself a Dillon on Wilson case gauge and check that each round enters and reliably falls free from the gauge. That the OAL is correct. Then check that the crimp the manufacturer put on the rounds works in your chamber, or better yet, run each round thru your Golden taper crimp setup.
takes more time, but you will like the results in training and combat much better.
Lead reloads often have wax on the outside on the case that can impede movement from the magazine to the chamber and negatively effect chambering at all.Run these thru your tumbler before using, then thru your case gauge.
You make some good points, I will apply these extras to my "good ammo". As for my training ammo I wish I could get more malfunctions out of it. I think it's a good thing to train with malfunctions. I have a long gun that hates steel mags, pretty much sure to get a failure to feed. I always put these mags in the mix when training. I have never had a weapon (knife, firearm or stick) that didn't fail. Things break, best to train for it.
 
depending on action (if you are talking about an AR, FAL or G3) your failure to feed issues are most likely mag spring related. Either there are burrs inside the mag body, the inside of the mag body is not lubricated, or the spring is weak. The bolt is moving faster than the spring is/can. What family of long gun are we talking about?
 

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