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old people, pants are pants

Actually - being maybe a little pedantic here - but pants are very important. I have some HD cargo pants that are ripstop that I am making preps to turn into "tin cloth" by using linseed oil, wax and mineral spirits. I would not want to get caught in a blowing snow "storm" like we had about a week or so ago, trying to trudge home with cotton blue jeans exposed to the wet cold blowing snow.

That is why when my daughter got stuck I went and got her instead of her walking home.

Besides the fact that she does not have experience with walking home into the face of blowing wet snow in temps in the lower 20s, she didn't have the proper footgear (she had "snow boots" :rolleyes: - i.e., zip up slip on suede boots with "fleece" on the inside that would have been soaked and freezing within a mile) and didn't have wind/waterproof shell pants (I gave her some when I learned she didn't have any and I am taking her next weekend to get some proper boots).

Experience and thinking counts.

Knowing what works and what doesn't.

What to expect.

When to stop and think instead of just forging ahead (she wanted to walk home five miles instead of me coming to get her).

What started out as an inconvenience could have been deadly:

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I would not want to get caught in a blowing snow "storm" like we had about a week or so ago, trying to trudge home with cotton blue jeans exposed to the wet cold blowing snow.

cotton anything. In the outdoors anything cotton is known as the "death cloth". Im still surprise by how many people I see outdoors, especially hunters, that wear cotton.
 
cotton anything. In the outdoors anything cotton is known as the "death cloth". Im still surprise by how many people I see outdoors, especially hunters, that wear cotton.

For the most part I agree - but "tin cloth" is usually based on cotton canvas - and after the treatment it is almost as waterproof and tough as tin - hence the name.

The problem with many synthetics is that while they have some good characteristics for hiking/camping and other sports like that, they are usually not as durable when working on equipment or in the woods/etc. and you generally try not to get them stained with grease or oil/etc.

Normally walking home from a stuck/broken vehicle doesn't involve that kind of work - but trying to get the vehicle unstuck, or fixed/etc., can easily involve rough work that would tear up most synthetics - IMO.

I don't expect my daughter to be changing her pants before she walks home in a snow storm - which is why I gave her a water/windproof shell and I am not only getting her some proper boots, but also some insulated waterproof gaiters which I have found to be as important as proper shoes/boots.
 
For the most part I agree - but "tin cloth" is usually based on cotton canvas - and after the treatment it is almost as waterproof and tough as tin - hence the name.

The problem with many synthetics is that while they have some good characteristics for hiking/camping and other sports like that, they are usually not as durable when working on equipment or in the woods/etc. and you generally try not to get them stained with grease or oil/etc.

Normally walking home from a stuck/broken vehicle doesn't involve that kind of work - but trying to get the vehicle unstuck, or fixed/etc., can easily involve rough work that would tear up most synthetics - IMO.

I don't expect my daughter to be changing her pants before she walks home in a snow storm - which is why I gave her a water/windproof shell and I am not only getting her some proper boots, but also some insulated waterproof gaiters which I have found to be as important as proper shoes/boots.

all of that is true. I mostly think of survival topics outdoor related, like in the woods. But in a broader sense its just as important in civilization too. And I mostly wear cotton clothing at work... I would hate to have to walk home in a blizzard in my street clothes.
 
all of that is true. I mostly think of survival topics outdoor related, like in the woods. But in a broader sense its just as important in civilization too. And I mostly wear cotton clothing at work... I would hate to have to walk home in a blizzard in my street clothes.

Exactly. Which is why I have a change of clothes in my vehicle kit.

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But I have experience in being stuck/broke down/etc., not to mention having to walk home/etc. - my daughter doesn't. It is hard to convince someone of a need if they haven't experienced it themselves. I was pleased to notice the other day that she finally started carrying, in her trunk, the kit/gear I had provided for her - at least for the winter.
 
cotton anything. In the outdoors anything cotton is known as the "death cloth". Im still surprise by how many people I see outdoors, especially hunters, that wear cotton.
My mom used to hammer me over the head with the phrase, "cotton KILLS! Cotton KILLS!" whenever I would be packing for a camping trip.
I always left the blue jeans at home- thanks mom!
 
For the most part I agree - but "tin cloth" is usually based on cotton canvas - and after the treatment it is almost as waterproof and tough as tin - hence the name.

The problem with many synthetics is that while they have some good characteristics for hiking/camping and other sports like that, they are usually not as durable when working on equipment or in the woods/etc. and you generally try not to get them stained with grease or oil/etc.

Normally walking home from a stuck/broken vehicle doesn't involve that kind of work - but trying to get the vehicle unstuck, or fixed/etc., can easily involve rough work that would tear up most synthetics - IMO.

I don't expect my daughter to be changing her pants before she walks home in a snow storm - which is why I gave her a water/windproof shell and I am not only getting her some proper boots, but also some insulated waterproof gaiters which I have found to be as important as proper shoes/boots.
I would love to hear how your homemade Tin cloth treatment works out , please keep us updated on that!
I keep a set of super heavy duty foul weather gear (carhart rain jacket and grundens rain bib) in the car with the tools, in case I ever need to crawl beneath my rig while its in the mud. Keeps me clean and dry when performing emergency repairs.
 
I am going to try it first on my Carrhart bibs. They are insulated, but they get wet too easily. Also, I have the bad habit of sitting down on stumps and then getting pitch on the seat of the pants which is hard to remove and then I get it on chairs in the house which then transfers to other clothing. The tin cloth treatment won't completely stop that - maybe not at all, but it should make it easier to remove. I had to pressure wash them to get it off.

I have some Riggs ripstop cargo pants that are heavy duty enough to turn aside most of the prickly brush in my woods, and those are what I wear most of the time and that I want to be treated. They are good pants, but again, being cotton, they are not waterproof, and they do get stained, so the treatment should make them much more resistant.

I have a Filson tin cloth "cruiser" hat and it is resistant to water and stains, but Filson stuff is so expensive for what it is, and I can't see paying the hundreds of dollars that they want for them and then taking them out and working on my truck with them.
 
@The Heretic , since I have no experience with tin cloth, how much more does it weigh over regular cotton garments? Could you treat a pair of regular jeans?

The weight will depend on how much treatment you apply. I intend to apply as much as the cloth will accept - except maybe for the pair of pants I have that have a flannel lining inside as I don't want it to soak into the flannel.

I expect that the weight increase will be significant. The work pants I have are heavier than jeans with double layer knees and heavier triple stiching - this is what I am talking about:

Wrangler® RIGGS Workwear® Ripstop Ranger Pant | Wrangler

I think Walmart has them on sale right now for $19

I usually need suspenders for these, even just walking around the house.

Regular street jeans are lighter and do not last anywhere near as long when working at physical tasks - like cutting firewood.

You could treat a pair of regular jeans, and I thought about it, but I think it would be a waste of effort and time. In my experience, the kinds of lightweight jeans you buy today come apart at the seams and the belt loops tear off if you use them for physical work. I work in an office so that doesn't matter - I wear them for comfort, not durability.

My "work" work pants - the heavy ripstop cargo pants, I want those to be bulletproof. I even have bought some knee pad foam that I am going to put into the double layer knees after I treat them.
 
Regular street jeans are lighter and do not last anywhere near as long when working at physical tasks - like cutting firewood.

I could consider trying this on an older pair of quality street jeans... I tend to use jeans for everything including work like cutting firewood because Carharts and most other rugged brands don't fit me well. I own several pairs of Lucky brand jeans that are made in America, if you get the MIA ones (they sell cheaper overseas produced ones too) Lucky jeans will last years of regular use. Thanks for the tips.
 
No. In many situations good wool would be well advised.

When I was in college I had some surplus German army winter pants. Heavy thick wool with plastic in the layers in the knees and the butt. Great for the snow, but they were heavy and require suspenders. They got even heavier when wet - but they were treated with something so they wouldn't get soaked.

Unfortunately, I am very very sensitive to wool clothing - even with poly under garments. I think it is because of my Aspergers. Not sure if I still have them - too heavy for the temps we get on the westside, but up in the cascades and on the eastside, they kept me warm.

West German Wool Pants | pig-monkey.com
 
When I was in college I had some surplus German army winter pants. Heavy thick wool with plastic in the layers in the knees and the butt. Great for the snow, but they were heavy and require suspenders. They got even heavier when wet - but they were treated with something so they wouldn't get soaked.

Unfortunately, I am very very sensitive to wool clothing - even with poly under garments. I think it is because of my Aspergers. Not sure if I still have them - too heavy for the temps we get on the westside, but up in the cascades and on the eastside, they kept me warm.

West German Wool Pants | pig-monkey.com
Yep, I've always had some of those German pants.. still do. Those are pretty awesome. I try to always have some good woolens but can't have the rough stuff against my skin either.
Some wool (cashmere and whatall) doesn't bother me much though.
 
I could consider trying this on an older pair of quality street jeans... I tend to use jeans for everything including work like cutting firewood because Carharts and most other rugged brands don't fit me well. I own several pairs of Lucky brand jeans that are made in America, if you get the MIA ones (they sell cheaper overseas produced ones too) Lucky jeans will last years of regular use. Thanks for the tips.

Just get some boiled linseed oil, some mineral spirits and some wax toilet rings - equal parts by weight. I will melt the wax into the linseed oil then mix the mineral spirits in (not near a source of heat or flame) then apply with a brush. The oil and wax provide the waterproofing, the mineral spirits helps the mixture to dry.

Do not use mineral oil as then the mixture will never dry. Hang the cloth somewhere it can dry - do not bunch it up while drying as linseed oil will generate heat while drying and has been known to cause fires if rags with linseed oil on them are thrown together into a pile.

This is from what I have read - I have not tried this yet. I suggest trying it on something you don't mind ruining first. It will discolor the fabric.

Good luck.
 
They offer some sweet but very expensive treated cloth tarps that you can "make" yourself. It's essentially "oilskin" or doped cotton. Get some huge tight weave Egyptian cotton sheets and dope them with the old recipe and it's much less likely to get holed by embers, yada yada.
 
They offer some sweet but very expensive treated cloth tarps that you can "make" yourself. It's essentially "oilskin" or doped cotton. Get some huge tight weave Egyptian cotton sheets and dope them with the old recipe and it's much less likely to get holed by embers, yada yada.

Some people are reluctant to treat the cloth with the oil and wax as they think that makes it more flammable. Maybe so, but I think it would make it a bit more resistant to initially catching on fire - but once you got it going, it would probably burn longer, it wouldn't go up in a flash like most cotton will if caught afire.

I wear a hooded long terry cloth robe around the house to keep warm and to keep food off my regular clothes (I am a sloppy eater), and once a spark from the wood stove jumped out and caught the sleeve on fire almost instantaneously. I think would just bounce off tin cloth - you probably have to hold the tin cloth over the flame for a while.
 
Some people are reluctant to treat the cloth with the oil and wax as they think that makes it more flammable. Maybe so, but I think it would make it a bit more resistant to initially catching on fire - but once you got it going, it would probably burn longer, it wouldn't go up in a flash like most cotton will if caught afire.

I wear a hooded long terry cloth robe around the house to keep warm and to keep food off my regular clothes (I am a sloppy eater), and once a spark from the wood stove jumped out and caught the sleeve on fire almost instantaneously. I think would just bounce off tin cloth - you probably have to hold the tin cloth over the flame for a while.
Yes.. you want to absolutely let that article cure so you can no longer smell it off-gassing. After full dry, embers are much more likely to just bounce off and not hole it like nylon etc.
 

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