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if you're looking at long action cartridges like the 270, you'll be limited in semi-auto options and they are all heavy.
New Browning BARs are under 7 pounds and are offered in long, short, and magnum calibers. My brother uses one for hunting in .308, and it is super sweet. Aluminum alloy receivers make the difference. They are expensive though as they start MSRP close to $1400 for the most basic MkIII. Or they still produce heavier, steel receivers in the MkII for $1300 MSRP.
AR-10 style rifles are a less than optimal hunting alternative IMO.
The older Remmys were also...not very reliable or accurate in general, though some proved alright. Think they stopped making that steamer around 2004 or so.
That is another downside of semi hunting rifles...if it ain't a Browning, don't bother.
 
New Browning BARs are under 7 pounds and are offered in long, short, and magnum calibers. My brother uses one for hunting in .308, and it is super sweet. Aluminum alloy receivers make the difference. They are expensive though as they start MSRP close to $1400 for the most basic MkIII. Or they still produce heavier, steel receivers in the MkII for $1300 MSRP.
AR-10 style rifles are a less than optimal hunting alternative IMO.
The older Remmys were also...not very reliable or accurate in general, though some proved alright. Think they stopped making that steamer around 2004 or so.
That is another downside of semi hunting rifles...if it ain't a Browning, don't bother.
Man, I want a BAR III in 308 so bad it hurts!
 
It's definitely "interesting" looking. I wish I had bought an FN AR when they were still making them.
They are pretty awesome, though I really don't like the magazine. Think a hinged floor plate, with a detachable blind box mag on top. Kinda awkward to load. Spares are expensive if you can find one, like $90 each.
 
New Browning BARs are under 7 pounds and are offered in long, short, and magnum calibers. My brother uses one for hunting in .308, and it is super sweet. Aluminum alloy receivers make the difference. They are expensive though as they start MSRP close to $1400 for the most basic MkIII. Or they still produce heavier, steel receivers in the MkII for $1300 MSRP.
AR-10 style rifles are a less than optimal hunting alternative IMO.
The older Remmys were also...not very reliable or accurate in general, though some proved alright. Think they stopped making that steamer around 2004 or so.
That is another downside of semi hunting rifles...if it ain't a Browning, don't bother.
How do you feel about ruger?
 
Thank you! Very helpful! Whats a .54? Ive never seen that caliber
It is a muzzle loading rifle caliber.
.54 is a excellent round ball size for big game hunting.

Traditional Muzzle loaders use lead round ball or conical lead bullets...many modern rifles use a sabot style bullet.

Cliff's notes version here :
There are basically two ways to go about muzzle loading ....Modern , with a in line rifle or traditional with a percussion or flintlock.
Of course there are many , many levels to each....

I am in the traditional camp.

Here is my .54 Caliber Hawken Rifle :
Hawken.jpg

Pictured here is the rifle I used to take my last elk..
its an original , as in actually from 1800 -1820 , flintlock rifle :
DSC06814.jpg

Muzzle loading is a fun way to shoot and hunt.
Like anything , it will require practice .
Also just like anything else , there is loads of information out there...a lot of it conflicting.
If you decide to go down the muzzle loading road....I'd be happy to offer any help or advice.
Andy
 
Something to consider about hunting rifles...

It was mentioned earlier that hunting rifles are carried more that they are shot...
This is true.

When handling a rifle...remember that how it feels in the store or at the gun show will not be the same as when you are :
Cold...
Wet...
Tired after being out all day walking...or even just 'cause you were out all day...

The type of clothing worn will also make difference...

Rifle "fit" is a important consideration.

Something else to consider is :
Getting what you like , what serves your needs....
No matter if what you pass up is :
Used by 1000's others...
Comes highly recommended by some "gun guy talkin' head" from a you tube channel or tv show
Or even if it used by the military

And whatever you decide on I would also suggest that you get lots of shooting practice.
Both on and off the rifle range.
How you shoot at rifle range , off a bench in a controlled environment , will be different that how you shoot when in the field at an animal.

Hit the books and read about hunting and the animal you want to hunt....then get out in the field and study both the land and and animal you want to hunt , there in its "home field" so to speak.
Andy
 
It is a muzzle loading rifle caliber.
.54 is a excellent round ball size for big game hunting.

Traditional Muzzle loaders use lead round ball or conical lead bullets...many modern rifles use a sabot style bullet.

Cliff's notes version here :
There are basically two ways to go about muzzle loading ....Modern , with a in line rifle or traditional with a percussion or flintlock.
Of course there are many , many levels to each....

I am in the traditional camp.

Here is my .54 Caliber Hawken Rifle :
View attachment 1085010

Pictured here is the rifle I used to take my last elk..
its an original , as in actually from 1800 -1820 , flintlock rifle :
View attachment 1085011

Muzzle loading is a fun way to shoot and hunt.
Like anything , it will require practice .
Also just like anything else , there is loads of information out there...a lot of it conflicting.
If you decide to go down the muzzle loading road....I'd be happy to offer any help or advice.
Andy
Thank you! I deeply appreciate that and I am flattered! My granfather had one, but I was so you g, idk who made it.
 
Your basic questions are:
  • What are you hunting? - this will determine the cartridge
  • Where are you hunting it? - Western Oregon is typically brushy jungle while Eastern Oregon is open. There are deer and elk on both sides. Understanding the environment will tell you if you need light, short, and handy vs something that can reach out. This also affects cartridge selection.
  • What is your physical condition? This will tell you how much weight you can wrangle up and down hills.
  • What is you marksmanship skill? Are you capable of a well placed one shot kill or do you need some "extra insurance" if your aim is off a bit?

You mentioned 6.5 CM. It's a great round and well suited to a beginning hunter. It's equivalent to the venerable 6.5x55 Swede which has been used for over a hundred years in Europe for everything up to their equivalent of Moose (they call them elk, but they are not the same as outs). For American elk IMO it's marginal, but doable,

For the price difference between semi auto and bolt action consider a pair of bolt action rifles: A lightweight handy 6.5 CM with a 2x7 scope and another in 30-06, or one of it's offspring (270, 280, etc.,) for Elk. the 338 Win Magnum is really the all around bread and butter gun for elk, but if you are recoil sensitive they will get the job done.

For inexpensive bolt actions that will still be very accurate go Savage (w/ accutrigger and accustock) and Ruger American. These use engineering that allows them to be inexpensively produced but still have outstanding accuracy.

Don't over scope. You need field of view unless you are specializing in long range. On that subject = look into Primary Arms Apollo ACIS for that Creedmoor. It's designed for that round and will allow you to shoot out to and beyond your normal hunting range without having to calculate a holdover. Would not be the best choice for brush, however, as it's a 3x16.
 
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you cant go wrong with a good bolt gun ,
1. more accurate
2. less parts and easy to maintain
3. reliability
4. not on a future liberal ban list
5. ammo lasts longer not blowing through ammo at the range

but a semi is nice to have , perhaps get the bolt first then a semi later
 
Myself, it's about comparison in what I want out of a rifle and caliber. I have hunted both side of Oregon with a 270 and a 308 Winchester. If I was just starting out a 308 would be my choice because ammo is cheaper to practice with. Plus it's far easier to find 308 than it is 270.

308 allows short action bolt guns and a huge variety of loads. I can load my 22 sabot loads for varmints or my 165 grain loads for elk. Gun has range limitations but it's a good starting point.
 
Your basic questions are:
  • What are you hunting? - this will determine the cartridge
  • Where are you hunting it? - Western Oregon is typically brushy jungle while Eastern Oregon is open. There are deer and elk on both sides. Understanding the environment will tell you if you need light, short, and handy vs something that can reach out. This also affects cartridge selection.
  • What is your physical condition? This will tell you how much weight you can wrangle up and down hills.
  • What is you marksmanship skill? Are you capable of a well placed one shot kill or do you need some "extra insurance" if your aim is off a bit?

You mentioned 6.5 CM. It's a great round and well suited to a beginning hunter. It's equivalent to the venerable 6.5x55 Swede which has been used for over a hundred years in Europe for everything up to their equivalent of Moose (they call them elk, but they are not the same as outs). For American elk IMO it's marginal, but doable,

For the price difference between semi auto and bolt action consider a pair of bolt action rifles: A lightweight handy 6.5 CM with a 2x7 scope and another in 30-06, or one of it's offspring (270, 280, etc.,) for Elk. the 338 Win Magnum is really the all around bread and butter gun for elk, but if you are recoil sensitive they will get the job done.

For inexpensive bolt actions that will still be very accurate go Savage (w/ accutrigger and accustock) and Ruger American. These use engineering that allows them to be inexpensively produced but still have outstanding accuracy.

Don't over scope. You need field of view unless you are specializing in long range. On that subject = look into Primary Arms Apollo ACIS for that Creedmoor. It's designed for that round and will allow you to shoot out to and beyond your normal hunting range without having to calculate a holdover. Would not be the best choice for brush, however, as it's a 3x16.
Thanks so much! This is very helpful
 
Buy a stainless Tikka in 7mm-08.

It will kill whatever you're likely to hunt at whatever distance you're likely to shoot.

And it won't beat you up physically or financially.



P
 
To put it in simple terms :

If it's a rifle for range fun, get a semi automatic.

If it's a rifle for precision shooting (target or hunting) get a bolt gun.

There are exceptions, but those are the two, basic camps.
 

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