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I would like to have a 9mm cylinder for my TRR8 but I don't want to give up full pressure .357 loads and I have read that if you shoot .357 in the 9mm cylinder that you may ruin the brass for reloading, or shorten its life.

So I wonder how easy it would be to swap cylinders and to get a spare 8 round .357 cylinder to have it rechambered?
 
you can get it directly from Smith and Wesson just called them up, I also see them pop up on eBay and GunBroker, you might get lucky and it will fit. If not you might have to face off a bit of the cylinder, and make sure the hand cycles properly. A brand new cylinder will most likely need fitting, but it's 50-50. I use cylinder has a good chance of fitting
 
you can get it directly from Smith and Wesson just called them up, I also see them pop up on eBay and GunBroker, you might get lucky and it will fit. If not you might have to face off a bit of the cylinder, and make sure the hand cycles properly. A brand new cylinder will most likely need fitting, but it's 50-50. I use cylinder has a good chance of fitting
Once properly fitted (I would have Velzey do it), how easy is it to swap?
 
What bore diameter is the barrel? 9mm is typically spec'd a bit smaller at .355 than .38/.357. Any issues with the barrel (accuracy/leading) swapping back and forth between 9mm and 38?

When I slugged it, my SW 929 in 9mm has a bore and cylinder throats that is oversize IIRC when compared to .355 standard 9mm barrels.
 
I noticed 9mm wasn't consistently accurate (just like my 929) because of the bore size. Fine for steel plates but not for bullseye or long distance target shooting. I plan on getting slightly larger coated projectiles and also trying a 627 cylinder in my 929.
 
Yeah - the 9mm cylinder would not be for hunting or long distance target shooting - it would be for self-defense.

My philosophy is to have revolvers, lever/bolt/single shot actions in the same chambering as I have semi-autos - JIC (for whatever reason, legal, backup, whatever). So far, I only have one revolver for a semi-auto cartridge; my 325 Thunder Ranch in .45 ACP. I want revolvers in 9mm and .40 (might get a 10mm revolver to shoot .40). I prefer my revolvers to be relatively lightweight (30-40oz unloaded) and 3-5" barrel (I prefer 4-5", but 3" is ok if I can't get 4-5") so I usually go for the 3xx S&W series (I have the 325TR, TRR8 and a 329PD).
 
I haven't had a chance to do extensive accuracy testing with my 929, but after slugging the cylinder and barrel (which were .3575 and .357, respectively, if memory serves) I have tried loading some coated lead 9mm bullets sized .357 or .358. I did get a bit of leading when shooting my "normal" 9mm handloads (124 or 125 grain coated lead sized .356). Haven't tried jacketed yet, but the larger dia coated lead, and Berry's plated 147 gr I tried seemed to do better as far as barrel leading.
 
Yeah - the 9mm cylinder would not be for hunting or long distance target shooting - it would be for self-defense.

My philosophy is to have revolvers, lever/bolt/single shot actions in the same chambering as I have semi-autos - JIC (for whatever reason, legal, backup, whatever). So far, I only have one revolver for a semi-auto cartridge; my 325 Thunder Ranch in .45 ACP. I want revolvers in 9mm and .40 (might get a 10mm revolver to shoot .40). I prefer my revolvers to be relatively lightweight (30-40oz unloaded) and 3-5" barrel (I prefer 4-5", but 3" is ok if I can't get 4-5") so I usually go for the 3xx S&W series (I have the 325TR, TRR8 and a 329PD).
You may want to try to find a Ruger Security, Police, or Speed Six—they're built like tanks.

 

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