Tight actions screw on 338 will not budge. Any ideas?

[tkdguy]

Have not used this rifle for 16 years. Likely torqued with brace and bit back in 2003. Tried to unscrew the actions screws with both brace and bit and torque wrench. No movement with some force. Maybe this tells me the action and actions screws are tight enough that the 338 will not shoot loose and have not loosened up in 16 years.
Originally I was going to remover the actions screws and clean it up and re-screw and zero 338 in again. Maybe best to just leave it alone and see how it shoots? Or other ideas on how to loosen up the action screws. It is possible that back then I had applied blue glue with the torque wrench or brace and bit and it is in securely tight. The action was pillar bedded. Any ideas or suggestions?

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[Steel Head]

Tap inline with the bolt as you apply pressure.
It may help.

 

[No_Regerts]

Wood or synthetic? I'd remove the scope if it has one and put it in the freezer for a few hours.

 

[Member 34319]

 

[Joe13]

Penetrating oil like liquid wrench and let it set soaking in it for a few hours.

Cordless impact driver if needed afterwards.

 

[tkdguy]

Synthetic McMillan Winchester Winlite Stock.

 

[MannyGlocks]

I second Joe's idea, but instead of letting the penetrating oil soak for a 'few hours' let it soak overnight.

 

[tkdguy]

There is no access from screw threads only on the screw heads. Will not damage stock or pillar bedding? There are three screws.

 

[jbett98]

A soldering iron held onto the screw heads will eventually heat up blue locktite. Might be best to just leave it alone if it's that tight.

 

[Whisky Tahoe]

...Originally I was going to remover the actions screws and clean it up and re-screw and zero 338 in again. Maybe best to just leave it alone and see how it shoots? Or other ideas on how to loosen up the action screws. It is possible that back then I had applied blue glue with the torque wrench or brace and bit and it is in securely tight. The action was pillar bedded. Any ideas or suggestions?

If you don't need to separate the action from the stock, save your self some headaches and shoot it as is. Check the zero and look for "minute of elk" accuracy or better

 

[KKG]

Was the Rifle still shooting as well as it Always had?

I'll be back in the morning.

TTFN

KKG

 

[MountainBear]

If it needs to come apart, I would try the soldering iron tip on the screw head. I would do this while it sat in my mill vice with a proper fitting hollow ground screwdriver bit chucked up in a Jacobs chuck.

Once I heated up the screw, I would drop the quill and bit onto the screw head, lock it in place vertically, and rotate the chuck with the key.

By doing this, the machine will put all the downward pressure, you just need to rotate the head. The screws will either come loose or break off.

 

[2A2Dend]

After all else fails..
I think if I was that determined to remove the action, I'd use a burr bit and grind (or drill) out the head of the screws.
A drill press or mill to clamp it all up so it doesn't move, then slow and steady. Otherwise, leave it be. Or see your GS.

 

[KKG]

Another answer is, depending on your mechanical skills and equipment available to you, you might consider taking it in to a Riflesmith and ask him/her to do the work.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

So this was the same rifle where the action screws kept coming loose in another thread? Do you remember if you tried to alleviate that problem with something like red loc tite? I cant help to wonder what information you are leaving out. Did you glass bed it, are the action screws rusted in place? How long has it been since youve had those screws out? Just wondering and thinking we need more info.

 

[pharmseller]

Sell it and buy a Tikka.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Sell it and buy a Tikka.

That should be your sig line

 

[gprippers]

A soldering iron held onto the screw heads will eventually heat up blue locktite. Might be best to just leave it alone if it's that tight.

LITTLE DIRECT HEAT AND THEY WILL POP NO PROBLEM!