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Tempted to say you need to have pictures with that post! :D That's an oldie you had a sleeve put in, if I remember right?
First post was a misunderstanding on what I was expecting for velocity. I was mainly looking for powders people might be using that are different than the regulars for .357 mag in handgun.
Yeah, I wish they sold factory .357 Mag specifically for rifles. Use rifle powder and pointed, or at least round nose bullets. RRB Restore - 10.jpg RRB Restore - 16.jpg
 
H110, Unique, Titegroup, #7, and #9 are all that I've used.

Titegroup or unique for 38s and 158 grain lswc.

The rest I've been experimenting with 357 and heavy bullets to go subsonic. I'm on the cusp of supersonic using 9.2 grains H110 and a 180 silhouette.

View attachment 544284
I've always heard H110/W296 can behave erratically if you download too far. Have you noticed anything strange?

I'm going to be using H110 for .300 Blackout, and I know some people use it for subsonic loads, but I'm a bit hesitant myself.

You might also try 2400, it seems to have a wider range.

I think HS-6 is a decent magnum powder, though I haven't used it personally. Power Pistol or BE-86 might be good options to try, along with Ramshot True Blue.
 
Yeah, I wish they sold factory .357 Mag specifically for rifles. Use rifle powder and pointed, or at least round nose bullets.View attachment 544558View attachment 544559
The leverlution round is a rifle specific one. It's not loaded very hot though. I've had great results loading those bullets to paco kelly's data; it gives a nice flat trajectory out to 250 yards.
 
I've always heard H110/W296 can behave erratically if you download too far. Have you noticed anything strange?

I'm going to be using H110 for .300 Blackout, and I know some people use it for subsonic loads, but I'm a bit hesitant myself.

You might also try 2400, it seems to have a wider range.

I think HS-6 is a decent magnum powder, though I haven't used it personally. Power Pistol or BE-86 might be good options to try, along with Ramshot True Blue.
When I did 300 blk. I used 1680 and lilgun.

220 Sierra matchkings and 8.6 grains lil gun was getting just shy of 1000fps out of my then 16" AAC HR single shot.
 
I'm looking to get more velocity, gradually. A slower burning powder that continues pressure as the bullet goes down the barrel. AA-2 being a faster powder expends all it energy quickly. At least that's the way I see it. In a 6" barrel you need to get your velocity up there quickly.

You might try AA 5744 but you'll have to call Western powders for data. I use it in trapdoor level loads in 45-70 so low pressure(18,000psi) but I see they have data up to 458 win mag pressures(60,000 psi) I don't see 357 data but do for 44mag on the high end and 44-40 on the low end. On looking on the internet I found this page out of AA's reloading manual#2 for 5744 data in a 357: Accurate 2-357 mag.pdf
 
Blue Dot.
Capable of high velocity, but can be loaded down with little hassle.
Kinda dirty, though.
I only loaded 41 Mag in a carbine and I used H110, but I like velocity. :D
 
If somebody really wanted to have accuracy with slower and heavy for caliber bullets in a lever action pistol caliber, I would recommend a Henry in 45 colt. It is the only lever I found with a proper twist rate (1:16) for heavier bullets. Of course there are still action length constraints and according to a tech I talked to at Henry, 260gr is the heaviest they recommend. I have considered buying one and having a smith work it over to cycle heavier bullets. What squashed the whole plan was the non compatibility with a supressor due to tube fed magazine design. For my sub loads in my 16" single shot cva 44 mag rifle I found 2400 powder worked the best.
 
I use 4227, with a 158 gr RNFP lead bullet or 158 grain RN plated Berry's bullet in my Marlins (one 24" and one 16.5" barrel), and my Ruger 77/357. About 11 to 11.2 grains as I recall seemed to work for me.

I already have H110, Unique and AA5 to try. Another concern for me, in this instance, is how a powder measures through the RCBS Uniflow? The 4227, if it's easily available, is worth a try. How does it measure? I see it's a stick powder. Once I get to loading shouldered rounds I won't care so much about weighing every load. But I'd prefer some thing that measures decent for .357 mag.

I'll most likely try Unique first.
 
The stick powder isn't going to measure at all - and might jam up the measure.
Ball powders measure very well
Depending on the size some flake powders measure ok - Unique does but Trail Boss or 700X is too big.
It also depends on the measure. I have an RCBS and an old Redding 'Master Powder Measure' that measures much better than the RCBS.
 
The stick powder isn't going to measure at all - and might jam up the measure.
Ball powders measure very well
Depending on the size some flake powders measure ok - Unique does but Trail Boss or 700X is too big.
It also depends on the measure. I have an RCBS and an old Redding 'Master Powder Measure' that measures much better than the RCBS.

Well, they say "extruded/tubular shape". I guess it depends some on how long the tubes are, eh? I know Unique isn't great, but not terrible, like 700X. And yes BALL powder is best. AA 5 is a ball powder, so I've got that.
 
Unique isn't great, but not terrible, like 700X
Unique is smaller than 700X so it better.
I believe Unique was 'revised' several years ago to a smaller granulation.
Unique measures well out of my Redding measure with very little deviation.
The pine cones I killed yesterday didn't notice at all!
 
I already have H110, Unique and AA5 to try. Another concern for me, in this instance, is how a powder measures through the RCBS Uniflow? The 4227, if it's easily available, is worth a try. How does it measure? I see it's a stick powder. Once I get to loading shouldered rounds I won't care so much about weighing every load. But I'd prefer some thing that measures decent for .357 mag.

I'll most likely try Unique first.
4227 is Smaller stick doesn't measure terribly in my measures anyway (kind of like Vihtavouri pistol powders but a tad smaller). Drops better than Unique in my exp. H110 always a good choice to try in the longer barrel. AA#9 might not give you the case fill. I haven't used it but it looks dense and fine. 4227 and AA5744 are very versatile for magnum handgun/carbine/old straightwall cartridges with lots of volume. Worth a look if after you try what's on hand and you still don't have a load you like. I don't think you can fit enough 4227 in a .357 case to make it dangerous with a modern gun. ~15.8 grains comes to the bottom of the average 158gr projectile and you are compressing beyond that. I get my loads out of the cast bullet handbook for .357 rifle and they work great in the .351 sl with the suitably slow powders (to work the blowback action properly) because the ballistics are very similar. I keep hoping to find something that works better than 4227 but so far it's the king in that particular rifle (with AA5744 being an acceptable, albiet expensive, backup alternative). I'm thinking the H110 will work for you though.
 
FWIW- and granted Im not a scientific experimenter that some here are- I found early on that .38spec cases in .357mag chambers in revolvers arent as accurate as similarly loaded .357s in the same chambers AS A RULE. I quit doing that 40 or more years ago. More modern ammo may be different these days. YMMV
 
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FWIW- and granted Im not a scientific experimenter that some here are- I found early on that .38spec in .357mag chambers in revolvers arent as accurate as similarly loaded .357s in the same chambers AS A RULE. I quit doing that 40 or more years ago. More modern ammo may be different these days. YMMV
Could be because of the longer bullet jump.
 
I mostly shoot SASS competition with my .357 Mag/.38 Special Marlin 1894 lever action carbine.

That being said...…
In order to keep things SIMPLE, the loads I use are not that different (except for the cartridge overall length) from my pistol ammo used for SASS. BTW, only lead bullets are allowed in SASS. I choose to use LRN over the LSWC ammo. Anyway, the cartridge overall length change was needed to ensure smooth functioning of my reloads through the lever action.

BUT...…I suspect that you're not gonna be using your loads for SASS.

So then...…
IMHO.....the powder selection isn't that big of a deal* (speaking of data gotten from a well known/safe reloading book). Unless, you're a stickler about properties/issues such as:

clean burning
flash
velocity/pressure
cost per load

*IMHO.....having a smooth functioning lever is of a higher priority. Not to mention, that it could/may/will probably take some time......depending on your selection of components.

But then...…
Just get out there and try some loads.

Find out what works BEST with your combination (cases, primers, bullets, and powder selection) and how you like to shoot. Keeping in mind, what you're shooting at (hunting, metal or just paper targets).

Aloha, Mark

PS....also keep in mind, the "pointy bullet" in a tube magazine, warnings.
 
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