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Its amazing how easy they are to build, Once you do you will never buy one again.
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Well now,I went to the local ranch store that's sells $600 ARs and DD guns. You pull the charging handle and they both make that sliding sound. Why would I spend another $8-900 for a DD AR when it isn't machined any better than the $600 gun?Is a $600 Delton as good as a Daniel Defense ? No, but for half the price I still have as much fun and it doesn't turn into a safe Queen like my ddm4 or White Oak. All just opinions.
J .P. Enterprise buffer spring very smooth no sliding scape noise but there $140 bucks I got one on my 5.56 can't use one on my 300BLK OUT because I have law tactical folding stock and the adapter on the back of the bcg won't let you use it because the spring has a guide rod in the middleWell now,I went to the local ranch store that's sells $600 ARs and DD guns. You pull the charging handle and they both make that sliding sound. Why would I spend another $8-900 for a DD AR when it isn't machined any better than the $600 gun?
It may have better,cooler furniture but you won't convince me it's 900 bucks better.
But that's jus my opinion after a side by side comparison
As I said earlier, unless you're doing a whole lot of mag dumps its pointless. The big difference between our rifles and the standard isssue M4 is they have select fire. Another thing to keep in mind is that you're rarely going to be in the position where you'd have to dump enough rounds fast enough with enough round count to boot to make a significant difference. Chrome lining also applies to the bore only. Barrel treatment affects both the bore and outside.A copy and paste better than I can explain. Plus ease of cleanup and corrosion resistant.
From Shooters Log
Nowadays, almost all military rifles are universally chrome-lined to protect the rifle barrel from excess erosion. AR-15 rifles are particularly prone to erosion when fired rapidly, in part due to the high velocity of the round, and in part due to the high pressures generated by the cartridge. While it's not uncommon for military rifles to experience high rates of sustained fire, it's also not difficult to fire a semiautomatic AR-15 at rates exceeding 100 RPM. Under sustained fully automatic gunfire, or rapid semiautomatic fire, an enormous amount of heat is generated. That heat is what can quickly ruin a barrel.
The leade (the unrifled portion of the barrel just forward of the chamber), as well as the first few inches of rifling, is subject to temperatures hotter than the surface of the sun and pressures exceeding 50,000 PSI. Under slow fire conditions this area is able to cool a sufficient amount in between strings of fire. Under sustained rapid fire however, there is no time for the heat to dissipate and temperatures soar into the thousands of degrees Fahrenheit. This can quickly cause damage by eating away at the rifling, "burning up the barrel" with the combination of extremely high heat and pressure. Hard chrome-lining the bore protects the leade and rifling with a thin coat of heat and pressure resistant chrome. This greatly extends barrel life in rifles that are fired for prolonged periods in full-auto or rapid fire semiautomatic modes by preventing damage to the leade and rifling.
These are the best and most complete AR Build videos on the Interwebz...I build guitars, have built violins and can do fine art work that sells. I am very mechanically inclined as well, so making a good one out of parts doesn't worry me. Getting good quality parts does concern me.
I come from the AK/SKS/Tokarev as more of my wheelhouse and I have repaired a few issues with those guns.
Partially wanting to build one is for me to develop an intimate familiarity with how they work. I want to know how they work so I can do field fixes, but start with good enough bones that I don't have to.
As I said earlier, unless you're doing a whole lot of mag dumps its pointless. The big difference between our rifles and the standard isssue M4 is they have select fire. Another thing to keep in mind is that you're rarely going to be in the position where you'd have to dump enough rounds fast enough with enough round count to boot to make a significant difference. Chrome lining also applies to the bore only. Barrel treatment affects both the bore and outside.
Also the first few inches of the barrel are NOT subject to heat anywhere near the temperature of the sun's surface. It would be well beyond melting point if it was.
You'll be able to build something pretty nice with that budget.realistically parts budget is 1k-1.5k unless I take it slow. I can go up from there as needed.
AR World can be very different than AK World.Purpose is general, medium range rifle. In the past I do prefer chrome lined barrels on AKs and SKSs but mostly because ammo can be dodgy and possibly corrosive regardless of what it says on the box. (Basically I don't trust some of the cheaper 7.62x39 ammo, or the old surplus stuff, which has served me well.)
I don't think I will be buying any old mil surplus 5.56 from the eastern bloc.
Not very hard to put together a good shooter.So I will be game for whatever. I suspect I will use a scope on this one, so while I am not a super precision shooter, I would lean towards accuracy and reliability. I will not be doing 600 yard shots any time soon.
You'll be able to build something pretty nice with that budget.
AR World can be very different than AK World.
Not very hard to put together a good shooter.
In the meantime, think about the basic configuration that you want....
20" rifle with rifle gas ?
16" Middy with mid gas ?
14.5" Carbine with carbine gas ? (need SBR permit or welded FH)
Buttstock system
Rifle ? (fixed)
Carbine ? (telestock)
UBR ?
PRS ?
Handguard
Full float ? (probably for a precision rig)
Slick or railed ?
M-Lok or KeyMod ?
Once you get a list put together, I would start a new thread and post it for comments.
That way the new thread can be focused just on your build and not cluttered with other stuff.
Don't be embarrassed if you post up some junk parts, it's easy for someone new to the AR market to do so.
The members here can help you get set up for success.
This plus about $80-90 of add-on parts and a little Krylon is what I'm thinking of to build the girlfriend (well, build ME, but the one she gets to use when visiting) a "Faux Canadian C8" Starter AR.$40 Anderson AM-15 lower - no link, this is pretty much low end of "market rate"
$79.99 PSA 36759 Lower Build Kit (LPK plus buffer assembly and M4 telestock)
$269.99 PSA 507281 1/7, 16" Midlength Melonited Upper with BCG and CH
$389.98 Total
The KNS anti-walk FCG pins and Yankee Hill EZ-pull takedown pins I prefer add another $40-50 on top of this, but as a basic build I thought it might give you some ideas what can be done on tightwad budget. With good use of Daily Deals and coupon-clipping, maybe you can do even better... Note that neither of then include rear BUIS or optic, though.$40 Anderson AM-15 lower
$79.99 PSA 36759 Lower Build Kit (LPK plus buffer assembly and M4 telestock)
$179.99 <broken link removed>
$149.99 <broken link removed>
$14.95 DSA ZM48517-A Charging Handle
~$15 (low end of market price) Badger Ordnance 249-02 Tactical CH Latch
$479.92 Total
Velocity, yes. Accuracy, not really. On paper the shorter barrel would be more rigid, thus more accurate. In reality anythin can happen.I assume the 20 will gain some velocity and accuracy all things being equal. (which they never are)