Thinking of a .308 Semi auto DMR

[Impalla]

Not an AR fan at all. unfortunately i feel that they will be the most accurate out of the ones i have looked at but it dosent hurt to get some other opinions. So i have looked at the M1A.. Kinda getting up there in price for me. I plan on setting aside 2500 for EVERYTHING optics and random stupid crap that i dont really need. I have also looked at the Ptr91 love the HK stuff also around my price range. Just started looking into the FAL cause they seem to be in my price range too. Are there any others that i should consider? As far as distance goes. Probably will have a 500yrd zero. and then play around from there. Really wanting something that will hold MOA (sub is of course better but not necessary) I am a punk teenager so i will probably be making this thing look some what "tactical" so if there are more accessories out there for one, i would like to also know that. I hand load also so i am not too worried about the guns that only work good with quality ammo.
Thanks!

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[H2O MAN]

It doesn't have to happen over night, does it? ... Start out with a loaded M1A or a nice Norinco/Poly Tech M14 and work your way up to building yourself a civilian clone of the TACOM M14EBR-RI.

 

[KillerBD]

I've shot an M1A 'SOCOM' 16" barrel type before, with all the 'M4 style' stock/furniture on it. Honestly, it was cool how short it was, recoil wasn't too bad at all. But I can't stand having all that garbage on it, that's not to say I'm a purist when it comes to MY M1A. Just think it's a second kind of stupid when people try and dress guns up to look like other guns, putting common-sense/practicality in the back-seat. You just need to put function over just putting all this crap all over it. I purchased mine originally with a walnut stock from Springfield Armory, M1A 'Scout Squad' 18" barrel version. It's pretty good looking, not to mention I enjoy the look of rifles that 'younger/kid' types tend to dismiss as 'inferior' because they aren't covered in black-plastic like Call of Doodie.

Anyway, as much as I like the look of that walnut stock, I decided to opt for the Archangel stock instead. Shooting in warmer weather especially, I didn't like the idea of my face/hands sweating over the nice wood. Which 'worrying' about a rifle isn't really my thing, getting scratches, dings, wear 'n tear is normal; so the old beautiful wood had to go.

Having an M1A 18" with an Archangel stock is damn nice, I still like the 'look' of the old school wood + iron. But for pure function, this stock is much improved, even the recoil on it feels on-par with my 7.62x39 AK. It has cheek-adjustment, length-adjustment, rail-system on the underside of the barrel for attachments. Which I've tried a few things on this rail, including a bipod, but honestly it's just more weight, doesn't really improve much for its added weight IMHO. Also the 'gooseneck' type of grip, not a true 'pistol-grip' but for an M1A it's far better than most pistol grips you will find. Although the 'EBR' kind looks decent, but I haven't shot an M1A with the EBR furniture.

Bottom-line, don't try and imitate what you see in pictures just for the sake of 'looking cool'. Find what works best, buy something that is purpose built for an M1A, I don't recommend getting 'M4 lookalike' crap for it. +Archangel, it may require a slight bit of sand-paper to get a perfect fit for some (didn't have to for mine, tight squeeze though). Also keep it as LIGHTWEIGHT as you can, they weigh about 11lbs out of the box as is. Especially if you consider owning one for a 'bug out rifle'. Hey if you're in good shape then more power to you, carrying ammo is to be considered here along with everything else. Going on rucks/hikes on rough or steep terrain, a pencil can get quite heavy... Well some pictures:

I like the 'scout' setup with mine, although I tend to run it without optics, with or without though I can feed mine with 10-round stripper-clips. You can see the guide-rails in this pic:

Original/old-school


Also another + to the 'scout' setup for a scope, although not the idea choice for a pure 'marksman' rifle. Its damn good for fast acquisition, as well as keeping both eyes open for keeping good situational-awareness. Also doing strong-side / weak-side transitions is a plus with a forward mounted scope, you can easily keep both eyes open and keep a decent sight picture with a good scope. The BSA-Edge scope I have on mine isn't exactly top-shelf in quality, but it works pretty well. I would look into Leopold, but if you decide to go with something more affordable I would recommend what I have. Eye-relief for mine is between 11-20" so it should work fine, but I plan on buying a better mount eventually anyway, one solid piece with slight extra length forward. As my face sits I'm right at about 11" away with it on, so I want a little-further way. As well as a better mount, I went cheap with the rings I have now. They work, but I don't recommend them. What I'm looking at getting/similar:
http://www.amazon.com/Offset-Piece-Scope-Release-Picatinny/dp/B006MYCIOE/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4

 

[ZA_Survivalist]

2nd that for a simple socom 16 or M1A

Though the PTR (G3 variants) are terrific platforms.. Ive played with mine enough to know that Id rather have a Piston or DI gas system DMR if SHTF. I think they have issues that can turn a very nice DMR into a fancy single shot. Roller system can be problematic.

My vote would be (in order of cost) an FAL variant, AR10 (or similar variant) and if you had the money a socom or M1A.

Heck, a Garand is a fantastic option as well.

 

[erudne]

Siaga 308/762 Rimmed

 

[KillerBD]

I agree with most of you, however I would put the AR10 at the bottom. Unless you really have a ton of extra money laying around. For a decent M1A it shouldn't cost you more than a good AR10. Besides finding spare magazines for the AR10 seems a bit challenging. M1A you can get CMI or ProMag for pretty cheap. I only have 2 ProMag 20 rounders, they work quite well. I would look into CMI/CheckMateIndustries though, they have 25 rounders that I hear good things about.

 

[cookie]

Well the current Springfield offerings are made in taiwan cast parts over priced junk. There are way better M1as for the money spent than a Springfield M1a. The old ones with GI forged parts bullet proof.

 

[Salps]

I recommend the Socom 16 quality is better than most think and their warranty is outstanding.

 

[Mongo1]

United Defence Manufacturing Co is coming out with a .308 called the PVAR. There is a video showing it being demonstrated. Although I have a Saiga 308 I am going to check this PVAR when it is released(this month I heard)

 

[H2O MAN]

EBR furniture for the M14/M1A goes way beyond looks.
These simple Texas EBRs are going to be a couple pounds
lighter than those seen in the group shot I posted earlier.

 

[Impalla]

How much older?

 

[Impalla]

Are they made by sage too?

 

[Lange22250]

The optics mounts are typically the weak link on the M1A. The first long range class I took the only M1A didn't hold zero for more than 200 rounds and the instructor said that was not uncommon. In the end and M1A will cost more than a DMPS 308LR, probably have zero hold issues and be much more difficult to work on.

 

[H2O MAN]

The optics mounts are typically the weak link on the M1A.
The first long range class I took the only M1A didn't hold zero for more than 200 rounds and the instructor said that was not uncommon.

New, rock solid options are now available for mounting optics on the M14/M1A. The CASM from M14.ca is really nice, and the DCSB for the SAGE EBR is also an outstanding optic mount.

 

[DoubleTapDrew]

H2O man, you are probably the best one that can answer this. I love the look and feel of the M14/m1A. I have heard complaints (online, of course, the complaint center of the world) from NRA Highpower shooters that you need to re-bed the action every time after removing it to maintain accuracy. Is that true? Does the sage stock eliminate that issue?
For the OP, the thing that turned me off about the PTR/HK91 is the fluted chambers, since I reload and don't want the brass looking like a tostitos scoops chip after firing.

 

[Impalla]

With The HKs the fluted chambers just blow smoke on the brass it cleans off really easy.

 

[H2O MAN]

H2O man, you are probably the best one that can answer this. I love the look and feel of the M14/m1A. I have heard complaints (online, of course, the complaint center of the world) from NRA Highpower shooters that you need to re-bed the action every time after removing it to maintain accuracy. Is that true? Does the sage stock eliminate that issue?

Yes, the tension bedding inherent with the SAGE system eliminates the issue, EBR bedding does not wear out.
My only bedded in walnut experience resulted in small cracks in the bedding the first, and only time I removed the action from the stock. BTW, a Scout bedded in walnut and treated to a few NM modifications makes for a sweet Bush/Scout rifle. Very accurate.

 

[Impalla]

EBR furniture for the M14/M1A goes way beyond looks.
These simple Texas EBRs are going to be a couple pounds
lighter than those seen in the group shot I posted earlier.

Are they made by sage too?

 

[H2O MAN]

Are they made by sage too?

This part is

 

[DoubleTapDrew]

Ok thanks for the info. I'm warming up to the Sage stock, but I love love the scout especially in a walnut stock. I'll probably come around. After my factory wood stock warped I went to a HS precision alum. bedded stock in my hunting M700 and it went back to the tackdriver it used to be, and then some. Plus its insanely light.