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Thought it would be be fun to have a thread to share what you messed up or improved on your firearms lately. Sort of like the reloading forum thread for your latest activity.

Most of my guns have some sort of improvement or modification for the purpose of making them function better or look better. Tonight, I polished and installed a new Glock OEM (-) connector in my Gen 5 G23. The "minus" connector comes stock on Glock target models such as the G34 and G35. It typically lowers the trigger pull from 5.5 lbs to around 4.5 to 4.75 lbs.

I've tried a few of the aftermarket trigger connectors that claim a lower trigger pull and didn't like them. They lightened the pull, but the crispness (for a Glock) was gone. Plus, I'm not a big fan of any non-OEM parts in a carry pistol. I've got the "minus" connector in all four of my Glock pistols, and they have all been polished, as well.

Here is the factory "dot" connector, which gave me a decent pull of just under 5.5 lbs, on the left. And the new OEM "minus" connector, which lowered it to 4.75 lbs, on the right...

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The newly polished connector and trigger bar ready to be installed...

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After install, the trigger feels a bit better and is half a pound lighter. It will get even better with more shooting. Not bad for $20 and 20 minutes.

I wish my 1911 was so easy to work on and improve.
 
I enjoy tinkering on guns. Many years ago long before the internet, I started with Smith and Wesson revolvers.
Complete disassemble clean and properly lubricate. Polish certain parts and spring kits in some. Then years later
I graduated to 1911 pistols. I have the jig for stoning 1911 sears. I used Jerry Kuhnhaussen's shop manual books.
I enjoy working on M1 Garands fitting stocks and parts improving accuracy. AR accuracy improvement with new barrels
and parts. Last gun I worked on was a Savage 93R17 improved the trigger cutting a coil off of the trigger return spring.
The worst gun I ever took apart 30 years ago was a Remington Nylon 66, 22 rifle. Closest I ever came to taking it to
a gunsmith for assembly. Took me several nights to get it back together.o_O
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Recently rebarreled my Savage 12 FV from .223 to 6.5 Creedmoor. No hiccups there, once I had everything in hand to do the job, went smooth as silk and took all of 30 minutes. The hiccup came after the first range trip :rolleyes:.

I'm sensitive to recoil, and the CM is right at the top end of my comfort zone. Barrel isn't threaded (yet), so throwing a brake on there isn't an option. So I decided to add some weight to the stock. I have this is a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock, and had long since eliminated the blind mag in favor of a single shot sled. So I had this nice big void under the action, as well as a smaller one under the barrel. Had a couple of pounds of lead wire, so proceeded to cut and more or less swage the lead into the various voids. Problem was, I didn't think about how thin the wood was at the bottom of the mag cut out, and my "swaging" (pounding it in with a hammer and punch) resulted in a slight bulge and a couple of cracks in the bottom of the stock, just ahead of the trigger guard :oops:. Not a big deal, it'll be an easy fix when I get to it, and it worked :cool:! The rifle now weighs 14.5 lbs., and recoil is no longer an issue, although I still intend to thread the barrel sometime this winter. Later.

Dave
 
I hate the trigger creep on an AR, so I did the $5.00 fix on mine: :)
($5.00 for the tap)
1.Detail strip the lower.
2.Run same size tap up into the grip screw hole and finish cutting the threads all of the way.
3.Reassemble the lower except for the grip.
4.Run 1/4" long set screw into the grip screw hole until it just contacts the trigger and removes the creep.
5.Check operation of trigger and reinstall the grip.
6.If all is well, reach into action with a drop of Loc-Tite on a tooth pick and put the drop on the screw.
7.Re attach lower and check operation.

This fix will not lighten trigger pull. It will just remove trigger creep.:)
 
Last Edited:
I hate the trigger creep on an AR, so I did the $5.00 fix on mine: :)
($5.00 for the tap)
1.Detail strip the lower.
2.Run same size tap up into the grip screw hole and finish cutting the threads all of the way.
3.Reassemble the lower except for the grip.
4.Run 1/4" long set screw into the grip screw hole until it just contacts the trigger and removes the creep.
5.Check operation of trigger and reinstall the grip.
6.If all is well, reach into action with a drop of Loc-Tite on a tooth pick and put the drop on the screw.
7.Re attach lower and check operation.

This fix will not lighten trigger pull. It will just remove trigger creep.:)
On any semi auto rifle or pistol after playing with the sear, hammer, disconnector, springs relationship. I always check
operation for the first few times with only 2 or 3 rounds in the magazine. :rolleyes::rolleyes: To "Prove" the disconnector is operating
properly. You go too far you can experience full auto fire!:eek::eek::eek:
 
I hate the trigger creep on an AR, so I did the $5.00 fix on mine: :)
($5.00 for the tap)
1.Detail strip the lower.
2.Run same size tap up into the grip screw hole and finish cutting the threads all of the way.
3.Reassemble the lower except for the grip.
4.Run 1/4" long set screw into the grip screw hole until it just contacts the trigger and removes the creep.
5.Check operation of trigger and reinstall the grip.
6.If all is well, reach into action with a drop of Loc-Tite on a tooth pick and put the drop on the screw.
7.Re attach lower and check operation.

This fix will not lighten trigger pull. It will just remove trigger creep.:)
News to me, good post. And +1 on a great thread havegun.
 
I use to be a good fix-it and hand gun tinkering guy, even fixing a couple of things that "weren't even broke" (love Gran Torino) :D

My tinkering these days is inspect and cleaning (not sure that counts), and then taking anything serious over to Copeland ;)
 

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