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Glassing is a nice trick and super easy to do. Old pump shotguns have the same sort of problem especially as the wood ages and dries out. If yours has not started cracking or showing signs of cracking then the Linseed oil trick works some times. Hope yours turns out as nice as it looks and sounds!
 
I love it when my shipment comes in:D

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So for those of you who are interested in this firearm and loading for it, here's some stuff that's working for me:

1). .357 mag brass turned to .405/.410 on the rim and an extractor groove cut to .357x.075. This cut will make the case fit in a #19 Lee shell holder perfectly and chambers and ejects consistently. The brass is .09 short but the cartridge headspaces on the rim so it's close enough. If you want the projectile seated closer to the leade you could seat the bullet out a bit, but I haven't found that makes a difference so far. These don't need to be fireformed first, I have run 15 casings through 3 times and so far no split cases.

2). If you don't have .351 dies....357 will work, but with .352/.351 projectiles you likely won't have enough neck tension to hold the bullet firmly. Here's how to get around that: FL size the .357 cases and then put a .380 or 9mm sizing die in the press. Run the cases into the smaller die just far enough to tighten the neck to the depth the projectile will be seated. I'm using a .762x.39 case as a stop gage between the turret and the RAM on my lct it works perfect to size the neck consistently to the right depth. I was going to get a set of dies but the .357/.380 combo is working so well I think I will just save the money.

3). From this point it's just normal loading like any other .357 case with a roll crimp, assuming you have some right sized projectiles. Right now I am using some home cast ~18bhn 158 gr sized to .352 and lubed with saeco gold and a wide meplat that are working far better than I expected. Yesterday I moved the target out to 100 yards and even with Iron sights I put all rounds on a 12x12 steel plate shooting from a rest. I think with the right table and a proper rest I could expect a 2 inch group at 100yd, which is more than adequate for this gun. I need to do some chrony work.

4). I found some .352 180gr lead bullets at Western Bullet in Montana, they are on order don't know when I'll see them, but evidently they make them. They also have a gas check they sell there, but I didn't order those. Buffalo arms has components for these from time to time but they are spotty.

5). The load I am using with the 158gr bullet is 15.2gr of IMR 4227 with a CCI small rifle primer. Haven't seen any pressure signs up to 15.5. So far this load cycles the action perfectly, I haven't had a ftf/fte yet. I had some dirty burn on the powder until I got up around 15 grains, pretty normal for 4227.

My initial impressions are that it's a real kick to shoot and fun to load for. It sounds very unique and attracts a lot of attention when other shooters are around. It makes a kind of flat splat sound when fired, rather than a sharp crack or big boom. It's quite pleasant to shoot actually. It's heavy enough that it doesn't rise much on recoil.

I can't think of anything else at this point; if anyone has any interest in buying one of these or getting one you have up and running or need some brass feel free to contact me. It's not at all an impossible task to get components or load for the 1907wsl.

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the lyman ideal no.37 hand book shows 4 loads:
cast bullet no. 351319 177gr imr4759 13.5gr 1500 ft/sec
" " " " 177gr 2400 15.5gr 1680E (estimated)
jacketed 180gr 2400 19.0gr 1870 ft/sec
" 180gr 4227 19.5 1800 ft/sec maximum load

hope this helps--i use these tables a lot, and get excellent results almost always.
mind yer topknot!
windy
 
the lyman ideal no.37 hand book shows 4 loads:
cast bullet no. 351319 177gr imr4759 13.5gr 1500 ft/sec
" " " " 177gr 2400 15.5gr 1680E (estimated)
jacketed 180gr 2400 19.0gr 1870 ft/sec
" 180gr 4227 19.5 1800 ft/sec maximum load

hope this helps--i use these tables a lot, and get excellent results almost always.
mind yer topknot!
windy

Yes it helps for sure. Any original data in old manuals is helpful. I actually have 2 lb of SR4759 but I use it for reduced 22-250.

It seems like the slow magnum pistol type powders are where it's at. I've read some reports of fast-er powders being used but the action does not appear to function well with them. I'm thinking the powder needs to be burning all the way down the barrel to kick that heavy blow-back bolt all the way to cycle.

So far I am still using cast projectiles, but someday I'll find some jsp to try. I appreciate all the info everyone posted in that respect. More is better:).
 

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