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Forty years ago I encountered toilets that used air pressure to accomplish a low-flow flush. These were installed in a municipality that had no sewer, and each house had a holding tank. The City pumped the tanks (for a fee) and dumped the effluent in a remote spot. I doubt this system lasted past the 1980's. :rolleyes:
 
They have Sloan pressure tanks that retrofit a regular gravity tank toilet to use the line water pressure.
I like this idea. But just now I've been looking at what is available. In several places, I've read that an existing gravity fed toilet cannot be converted to a pressure system. Because the design of the two bowls address different dynamics of water flow. The bowl for the pressure system is designed specifically for it. Unless I missed something. But if you buy the new pressure system toilet complete, you get the advantages of it without the need for one inch service as you'd require for a regular Sloan valve.

During my search, I also discovered that there was a big recall of Sloan pressure tanks. The seams separated on the plastic internal tanks, blowing up the ceramic tank which created shrapnel. They have a new design that replaces that one.
 
Forty years ago I encountered toilets that used air pressure to accomplish a low-flow flush. These were installed in a municipality that had no sewer, and each house had a holding tank. The City pumped the tanks (for a fee) and dumped the effluent in a remote spot. I doubt this system lasted past the 1980's. :rolleyes:
Similar to toilets using vacuum to evacuate the bowls on cruise ships and commercial airliners?
I was about to say.. But @gmerkt beat me to it. I used to have to crawl all over those ungawdly carbon fiber poop tanks on the 787. Man those things are itchy! Even with PPE. but yeah.. Those airplanes dumped their efluent in a remote spot as well. Sometimes on peoples homes the venerable "Boeing bomb" well not the 787 (not yet) give it time.
 
It is kind of confusing, and probably on purpose. If your solar grid is working and you are using some, or all of it at any one time, you may or may not be sending any into the grid.

You get a credit for each KWH you send into the grid. They give you a credit at the same rate they charge you for the power you take from the grid. In the summer, you should be producing more power than you use. In the winter, you will be using more power than you produce, since there is less sunlight and it is colder.

If you send in more power than you use during the billing year, they do not pay you for the excess. If you don't send in as much power as you use during the billing year, you pay them for the power you use in excess of what you sent into the grid. Heads they win, and tails, you lose. Wonder why Warren Buffet bought PP&L, a regulated public utility?

On your power bill, you will see a breakdown of rates. There is a base rate for them providing service, then graduated rates for the power you consume. You have to keep paying the base rate, and the power credits/consumption is calculated using the graduated rates. In other words, if you sent the same amount of power into the grid as you used during the year, you would only pay the base rate charge, which in my case is about $25.00/month.

One of the ways to calculate the size of the solar system needed is to review power bills over several years. This lets you size the system based on your normal consumption. If you are planning on buying a Tesla, you should install a larger system!
What is a rough estimate of cost for a system ? Family of four. We have 100% exposure for light.
 
What is a rough estimate of cost for a system ? Family of four. We have 100% exposure for light.
Not just as simple as that It can vary widely depending on needs and complexity. Can vary widely just depending on the quality of the inverter you buy and how big.

First step is you need to decide how much wattage you need at any one time (peak wattage) for good stability you may want to double that or at least add +25% for stability. Somethings like A/C and fridges draw more current when the compressor is starting.
Figure out if you need a battery bank to store energy which I'd highly reccomend. Batteries can vary widely depending on if you get sealed automotive style batts vs something higher "density" like Lithium ferrous oxide cells or other lithium chemistry batts (there's many diff kinds) they all have significant advantages and disadvantages. Some last a LONG time like LiFeO but freezing will kill them.

There's MANY other factors as well. I'm just giving you a rough idea. How fast or slow ie how many panels you have is another factor
 
What is a rough estimate of cost for a system ? Family of four. We have 100% exposure for light.
As Dr. Prepper said, it varies wildly. One factor is subsidies. There is a simple program where the contractor is paid a few thousand dollars directly by the third party. There is also a tax incentive that was scheduled to end this December 31th, but may have been extended by recent legislation.

Figure tens of thousands gross, and up to half offset by subsidies and tax incentives. You have to pay for the system, and have enough income to use the tax break. Payback time is 15-20 years, depending on many variables.

Payback time is calculated by taking your net out-of-pocket cost and dividing it by the amount you save on your power bill each year. A $2,000/yr. savings on a $30,000 cost would have a payback time of 15 years.

I look at it differently. If you invested $30,000 and got a first year interest payment of $2,000, you would be pretty happy. The next year, you are getting $2,000 on a $28,000 balance, and on and on. At the end of the 15 years, you have a paid-off system that is warrantied another ten years, so that is like having a $20,000 residual value. Most of us will either move or die before the system has to be replaced, but if you are young and plan to live in the same house for the rest of your life, research and buy the best, longest-lasting, well-warrantied system that you can find, and have it installed by a reliable contractor.

All these calculations are based on stable power rates. I think power rates will increase soon, and drastically. This will be because of the Green New Deal and the manipulation of supply and demand for power. It also assumes that the power company will not have to pay you for any power in excess of what you use each year, over the life of the system.
 
I'd also do the little extra things too and say get solar tubes for lighting and decent insulation if possible.
I'd DEF. Want to get a nice big system for irrigation and a reservoir for emergency fire fighting type setup with gravity feed + pumped if living anywhere near the woods. Not to mention clearing burnable foliage etc WELL clear from the house.
Solar isn't cheap. If done correctly and planned out you can have layer upon layer reinforcing the versatility of your stability.

Some people use a lot of power some hardly use any its hard to say. I'd want at least enough power for 2-3 fridges freezers ideally. And then you always gotta think ahead. What might you want to expand in the future that will use power.

I wish it was a easy answer I could just give you @Forester. But you know the saying anything worth doing...
 
I'd also do the little extra things too and say get solar tubes for lighting and decent insulation if possible.
I'd DEF. Want to get a nice big system for irrigation and a reservoir for emergency fire fighting type setup with gravity feed + pumped if living anywhere near the woods. Not to mention clearing burnable foliage etc WELL clear from the house.
Solar isn't cheap. If done correctly and planned out you can have layer upon layer reinforcing the versatility of your stability.

Some people use a lot of power some hardly use any its hard to say. I'd want at least enough power for 2-3 fridges freezers ideally. And then you always gotta think ahead. What might you want to expand in the future that will use power.

I wish it was a easy answer I could just give you @Forester. But you know the saying anything worth doing...
Appreciate the quality response
 
I'd also do the little extra things too and say get solar tubes for lighting and decent insulation if possible.
Solar tubes == good
Skylights == sucky leaky things

I like the solar tube in my guest bathroom - it lets in light. If I can, I will have them in my next house, especially the ones that can be shutoff and have an extra light.

But no skylights - they need to be replaced, are leaky things in the winter, let in too much heat during the summer and can't be closed when you want to sleep (at least most skylights - I have heard some have shutters). I am going to put black plastic over my bedroom skylight today. They also let mold/moss grow on them - never had the problem with a solar tube with a dome.
 
How do Democrats expect to move enough grain?
More info about the benefits of the Snake River dams (y'know the ones they want to remove to "save the planet".
... from the Army Corps of Engineers.

COMPARING CARGO CAPACITIES: On Tuesday, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers released this graphic comparing cargo capacities of barges, hopper cars and semi-trucks. One barge has the same cargo capacity as 35 hopper cars, or 134 semi-trucks. According to the USACE, barges keep over 100,000 trucks and their carbon emissions off the roads every year.
(Graphic: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Walla Walla District)

1660068774577.png
 
On Forrester's question on cost: We are in the process of getting solar put in. Call a couple local solar companies to get a quote. Basically, what they do is try to match up your system with how much power you use over the year. On paper at least, your loan for the system will be offset by not paying for electricity every month. I'll be surprised if its exact, but we did it in Denver and it was pretty close. So, you get the system for little to no cost---plus it adds value to your home if you end up selling it AND you get a lot of protection from increasing utility rates (because your loan payment on the system is fixed). We are going with Precision Solar--they are new but seem good so far. But, I'd recommend getting some quotes and learning more about it and then seeing if it's right for you. Hope this is helpful and PM me if you have any questions.
 
Those too, but I have a stock of Imodium. It is inconvenient when I am in my shop 50 yards from the house. My next shop will have at least a head in it.

Getting old sucks.
Home Depot gomer buckets and trash bags work well in instances like that. :rolleyes:

I'm grateful for this thread, a lot of good ideas here. Made me step it up and repair the carb on the generator I had, buy and refurbish a 2nd , and pick up a 3rd at a good price off this forum. It's so quiet, I'm going to find better mufflers for the two older gensets that I have.

Gotta finish the wood stove for this fall because natural gas prices are expected to stay high.
 

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