That Blue/Green Stuff....

Mikej

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What's a person to do about that blueish corrosion of sorts that attacks the rivets and metal parts on slings, bayonet frogs and such? I realize it's probably from the chemicals used to tan the leather. Is there anything to neutralize it? I'm looking a a 100 YO bayonet frog and sure don't want to have it eat the original rivets clear through.
 

deadeye

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What's a person to do about that blueish corrosion of sorts that attacks the rivets and metal parts on slings, bayonet frogs and such? I realize it's probably from the chemicals used to tan the leather. Is there anything to neutralize it? I'm looking a a 100 YO bayonet frog and sure don't want to have it eat the original rivets clear through.
 
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Mikej

Mikej

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Good info. Thank you Sir. I'm not sure how I'm supposed to get under the rivets and in the holes where the rivets go through to form the belt strap. Tight quarters. I've cleaned this stuff off places where you COULD get a wood pick in though. Such as adjustable slings.
 

deadeye

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Good info. Thank you Sir. I'm not sure how I'm supposed to get under the rivets and in the holes where the rivets go through to form the belt strap. Tight quarters. I've cleaned this stuff off places where you COULD get a wood pick in though. Such as adjustable slings.
One guy mentioned using dental floss for hard to get spots. I would think battery contact cleaner would work to neutralize then CRC lectraclean to clean it out as it evaporates fast. Then treat the leather with what was mentioned along with coating the metal with nail polish or melted paraffin wax to get under the snaps/rivets.
The big thing is to make sure the leather is kept properly when not in use.
 

DeanMk

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What's a person to do about that blueish corrosion of sorts that attacks the rivets and metal parts on slings, bayonet frogs and such? I realize it's probably from the chemicals used to tan the leather. Is there anything to neutralize it? I'm looking a a 100 YO bayonet frog and sure don't want to have it eat the original rivets clear through.
For any kind of metal corrosion (with exception to car batteries) I've always just used a brass brush...

1597468386714.png

...probably best to take the sling apart first. =)

Dean
 
If you're looking to use the gear and not put it on display somewhere, I would replace the rivets. Corrosion will eventually weaken the material it's attached to, causing bigger holes thus eventually rendering the gear useless. While rivets can last decades, they won't last forever. They suffer from corrosion and fatigue.
 
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Mikej

Mikej

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Here is what I'm looking at.....
P1040832.JPG P1040831.JPG

It looks pretty much impossible to get under the rivet. I may be able to slide a thin blade like thing in to get some of it. I like the idea of maybe a little fast evaporating contact cleaner? Would some saddle soap replace the preservative oils in the leather that the contact cleaner takes away? Other wise what substance/oil might be appropriate?
 
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Mikej

Mikej

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If you're looking to use the gear and not put it on display somewhere, I would replace the rivets. Corrosion will eventually weaken the material it's attached to, causing bigger holes thus eventually rendering the gear useless. While rivets can last decades, they won't last forever. They suffer from corrosion and fatigue.
I don't use the bayonet. It's just part of the Swede Mauser package. I still don't want it corroding the rivets away, and it's ugly. There may be nothing I can do other than clean the visual part and let it do what it will do?
 

STEELE

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It's called verdigris and pronounced Vur duh gree (say it quickly). Google it. I don't use anything other than an old and DRY toothbrush. Anything liquid will eventually destroy the leather.
 
I've used just a touch of Ballistol as a superficial topical after the brush routine. I've come to favor more a nylon style tooth brush but previous soft brass or bronze brush as shown above have worked well enough for my own purpose over the years.
 

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