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I don't know much about suppressors. To me it seems a lot easier to go with cones, rather than drilling a straight hole 10 inches long.

Do it a few times and it's not all that hard. Generally you do a pilot hole, followed by reamers. I also have the ability to do gun drilling, which is why I have a lathe with an 8' bed. I could make a monocore longer than most rifle barrels.

Yeah have a lathe accessible, I've found the ways to do what I need with what I have. Takes an extra step but it doesn't need a more expensive machine.

I'll do some more research regarding flow and such. I have plenty of time to do that.

I could draw up the way I plan to do it without cnc, just requires two dead pieces on each side as this will start as square stock and be turned down after the holes are drilled. Easier to work without cnc using squares vs cylinders. :)


In summation, need to redesign, off set holes, keep same diameter and keep reading.... Maybe find a program to test fluid dynamics..... :)

Also keep in mind I do this to test the limits of what I can do with what I have. I could just buy an econo-can and make my suppressor screw to the end of that, either way I'm still making my own stuff. (Though not sure of the legality of adding anything beyond the econo-can)

That's an interesting idea (starting flat, turning round) generally lathe work is what tests my patience when it comes to building many things. Lemme see if I can dig out some of the old crankshaft designs I started out with. They're not much more efficient than stacked washers. There are also a number of other modified M-baffle type designs that are much smaller, but less efficient that are great for rifle carbines that can be done with a lathe and drill press.

I'll dig those up and post them later.
 
So this was the idea of how it would start out.

The two dead pieces are there to allow for drilling 1/2 circles on the primary core. Keep in mind that is a 5 minute drawing. Both sides eventually could be used back to back as well to make the respective holes on a different one if needed (incase of strikes)...

but that's how we envisioned it when starting from square stock. Then turned down to fit our OD. End result is the same, just working with what we have.

(green bullet path, red relief holes, blue outlines core)
Suppressor Design2.jpg

Again, all theory at this point.

Come to think of it, I also wouldn't need to turn that on a lathe.

hell I could keep it square, and just index it on the rifle and use plate to make a case for it. Why turn.. just reduces some weight, but not necessary. Crush washer on rifle.
 
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How are you going to keep the threads and bore on the suppressor concentric? You're going to need a lathe to turn the threads and bore. Unless you keep the bore oversized, but that defeats the purpose of a suppressor. The closer the bullet OD to the suppressor ID, the less pressure passes through each baffle and less sound comes out the end. I would also be worried with baffle strikes. If your threads aren't close to perfectly concentric to the bore there is a greater chance the bullet will strike the baffles in the suppressor.

You should read this.

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=63889
 
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Ok, sorry for my absence on this thread, been busy with the holidays.

Anyways, I couldn't find the crankshaft style design I was talking about, probably got lost, either way it wasn't all that fantastic, if you look I think there are pics of it on silencertalk in one of the design threads.

What I did find is this one:
22MonoCoreSSInsert.PNG

This one is mostly lathe work, so it should be fairly easy for you to make. It requires boring 3 holes, the first being .25" all the way through, then a 3/8 and whatever the one is for a 1/2-28 thread. (31/64" IIRC). Then holes are bored through the sides, 3/8" into the large cavity, and 1/4" through the small cavity. This one uses a stainless steel plug to act as a blast baffle you can see it in the middle near the first set of holes.

The outside of the suppressor is turned to create voids on the outside for the gasses to flow into. Naturally these can be filled with fiberglass mesh impregnated with either oil or water. The reason for the mesh is this was originally designed as a can for full-autos, construction is 316 stainless, but inconel would be a better material. The version shown and described is for a .22. the 5.56 version was larger with an OD of 1.5" and an OAL of 6" the .22LR version was 1" OD with a 5" length.
 
do somthing similar back in army days as machinist. Dont kid yerself, drilling a 1/4 hole over 3 inches deep is a pain. i was all hung up on design n cool to. was a lot of work to make a generic vameco style suppressor. My boss treid 3/8 holes leaving bout 1/4 thick baffles on a .45 cal. didnt like that cal but did well on .22 cal. come to find out baffle spacing and volume matter waaaay more then some sideways hole or new built in windmill that dissapates energy...lol...higher cal=big can...couple baffles. smaller cal= many baffles close spaced. all hand on exp..
 
why not really do somthing that will knock out some Dbs....like dry ice conpartment or co2 spritzer that bleeds everytime the Neilson device cycles...keep that can cool. if your just startong out do yourself a favor n make a test can with varrious sized spacers an just flat or cone baffle. i found variances on bore hole in .223 here and there in the can got me some really low reads. once you get the idea of what cal likes what shape n spacing, then go bleed out on CAD deaming up new baffle desings.
 
come to think of all the bent barrels n wasted time in the sound tech field...well..hell new pellet gun at 1200 fps was pretty quiet n made me just quit...yeah...buy a pellet gun..go for head shots n giv up the extra Flbs
 

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