So, my Taurus PT-1911 is locked up. I don’t know what happened. Fired first round of magazine then slide locked with a live round not quite in battery. It also has an issue with hammer follow that I would love to get fixed. Anyone recommend a smith that would be willing to work on this in this condition? Or should I just toss it into the deep part of the Columbia River and save up for a decent 1911? It would’ve too bad, since I actually like the pistol, it WAS reliable for a number of years, and hasn’t been shot all that much. But if it would cost as much as a new Ruger 1911 to fix it, you know which way I would go. Thanks for any positive comments.
Yes, they were handloads, but the same handloads ran fine in my CZ 97B. Not hot, Wolf 230 gr FMJ, 6.0 gr CFE-Pistol, S&B once fired brass.


Shoot, could be a number of things.

First, is the bushing out of alignment?

Second.. I know its silly but.. is the safety engaged? Ove had a buddy where his hand rode up and the meat of his hand kept engaging it when he tried to rack the slide.

Third, With a small screwdriver can you pry the extractor up to release the rim of the case?

Then can you get the tip of a flathead screw driver between the barrel and slide for leverage to gently pry it open, or to get it started?

Sometimes it can be a stuck case issue and not the gun itself. Believe it or not an luckily, Taurus is not the only company making 1911’s that have had this exact issue so im sure the pistol is still gtg.


Here are a couple pics of current condition.:

49AD20A1-8CF6-4E18-B215-2D82290CD09F.jpeg D85EA46E-83A8-45EE-BD8C-3D0E6197A969.jpeg
I didn't see you say, but i assume you're unable to pull back the slide from it's current position?
I’d take that gun. Find a hard surface. SAFELY rack it against the edge using the rear iron sight. Pressing firmly and quickly in a downward motion. Finger OFF the trigger.

A bit like kick starting a m16/m4 when dealing with a brass over bolt.


Here are a couple pics of current condition.:

View attachment 1235456 View attachment 1235457
When I hold my slide open about the same amount, I see a noticable tilt in the hood part of the barrel. In your first pic, the barrel looks fairly straight with the slide. I wonder if you took a plastic mallot or piece of wood and gently tapped down on the top of the barrel hood to see if it frees things up. Note: Im not a gunsmith... though just genuinely curious what would be the cause of your jam?
Correct. My son even hammered on it a little with a piece of wood and it doesn’t seem to budge.
I believe that won't do what you need - as others have suggested, you need it on the edge of a hard surface, though there is plenty of room above the muzzle to do this rather than needing to use the rear sights.


1. Email Taurus with your quandary. They may recommend someone local to deal with it. In the meantime, call around a few local gunsmiths.
2. Using a mirror, make certain there is not a squib blocking the bore.
3. Mag out, use a wooden dowel to push upward on the round - it may then chamber.
4. Could the disconnector be jammed against the sear? Am thinking of the hammer follow problem.
5. Me? I might get to a safe space (not near any college), wire tie the hammer back and play whack a mole with a rubber mallet.


Since it's a LIVE ROUND.

Hummmm......Me......I'd make it safe FIRST.
Like......you know how the *old muzzle loaders removed a squib?
Yeah.....Then......I'd move on with the "fixing".

BTW......I wouldn't use extreme force to the rear sight......it might just break off.
I see that you have a guide rod........yeah, it makes it harder to use the edge of the table method.

Oh well........

Aloha, Mark

PS......*it won't be easy. Rifling and the bullet size makes a difference.


Appreciate the suggestions and comments. I think my son wants to take a whack at it (pun not intended) this weekend while his mom and I are visiting her family at Ocean Shores. I guess the next step would be contacting Tim Copeland and see if a road trip to Estacada is available. Not sure he would want to tackle this, what with the live round involved. :oops:


MY GUESS: Handloaded case with bulged base stuck in chamber.

I ran into this problem a few times early in my reloading days. I'm guessing the cause of the problem is with the handholds.

45 ACP (and 380 and 40) are notorious for the cases bulging at the base after firing, especially if the round was fired in a gun without full chamber support, like a Glock. (Trust me, I know because I shoot - and love - my Glocks.)

Thus, when reloading, if you don't "de-bulge" the case during preparation (or at the very least, "gauge" test the final reloaded round), getting a round with a case that won't chamber and gets stuck, is pretty likely.

Not all of the reloads in a batch will have bulges, so many will chamber and fire without problem. But it only takes one. That's why I de-bulge 100% of my 45, 380 and 40 cases before reloading.

To that end, don't get rid of the firearm. The pistol is mostly likely NOT the problem.

As for removal, I'd suggest (as some others have) that safety is paramount. Most gun smiths will charge anywhere from $50 to $75 minimum flat rate charge (depending on your location). My eyes, ears, hands, etc., are worth more than $75.

If the problem was a bulged case, there's plenty of info on YouTube on strategies / procedures to remedy that problem if you reload.

Good Luck.

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