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This really brings up some good topics for further investigation! For me, we in the Marines always carried a good folder of some type as well as a good fixed blade in the 7-10'' range! a good folder should be around 4'' Ever sense I retired, I have been trying to find what I am comfortable with, with out a lo of complications and added weight. What I have gone with might surprise most! I ha a huge fan of the good old fashioned Bowie with a blade of around 12'' or slightly more! These can be used for so many things, just pick a good blade shape and one made of good steel, and be done! For a folder, I like the Gerber quick draw II. its very light, holds an edge well, and sharpens up quick and easy! For a fixed blade, (other then a Bowie) I would go with a Gerber MKII with no serrations and the waist ed blade! CRKT makes one close as well! Another source for really good blades is Tooth and Nail Knives! These blades are of very high quality Damasks Steel, and will last forever! the price is quite reasonable as well!
Something else I have found and I swear by it for EVERY thing, is a "Boarding" ships axe! I ended up making mine from scratch, and it works so well I may end up making more for friends! Mine has a 20'' handle and a pretty good sized blade, but what makes mine unique, I added a pick spike to he other side! Now I have the perfect EDC tool, Just like the fighting sailors from the days of sail!!! Look at he designs of these axe's You will find them like a tomahawk, but bigger and longer! Much more useful in my opinion!!! o_O
 
I notice that some like a partially serrated edge and others don't. I think the serrations scrapped sideways down a dry stick make the best tinder bundles for fire starting! The shavings are very fine/thin and if you can get a coal or flame on them they will light.
 
I notice that some like a partially serrated edge and others don't. I think the serrations scrapped sideways down a dry stick make the best tinder bundles for fire starting! The shavings are very fine/thin and if you can get a coal or flame on them they will light.

I agree that works well. My only preference for not liking serated blades is the extra effort they take to sharpen.
 
I notice that some like a partially serrated edge and others don't. I think the serrations scrapped sideways down a dry stick make the best tinder bundles for fire starting! The shavings are very fine/thin and if you can get a coal or flame on them they will light.
I have serrations on most of my knives. On the one hand they do get in the way of some tasks, especially when the blade is less than 4" long. OTOH, they rarely need sharpening and they cut some things much better than a plain blade - I wind up using the serrations for the most common of knife tasks; cutting things, and when the rest of the blade is dull, the serrations will cut what the rest of the blade is taking a longer time and more effort to cut.

So sometimes I wish the serrations weren't there, most of the time I am glad they are.
 
I agree that works well. My only preference for not liking serated blades is the extra effort they take to sharpen.

The majority of my knives are combo blades and the only one I have ever had resharpened was a Spiderco fully serrated blade. It was about 20 yrs old and note that I had it resharpened! I can sharpen any blade and serrateds are the easiest! Just give an expert a few bucks and Voila! Dull serrations will still scrape tinder,fast and easy!
 
That depends on the serrations; some are simple to sharpen like the ones on my mess kit knife/"survival" knife, some are more difficult like those saw blades on the Swiss Army knives..... I do prefer that profile though for sawing through things.... a set of jewelers files and emery rods will help a lot for sharpening very dull serrations, along with "rat tail" triangle files and such for the more complicated "toothy" serrations that have alternating edge orientation.
 
To be honest, I've never gotten into any of that serration business. A sharp knife of good steel will go through 4" of Kevlar hawser like butter.. a thousand times
 
One bargain "survival knife" I forgot to mention is the Cold Steel Bushman. Watch for sales and grab one or two when prices are down near twenty bucks. I think I have three around the place right now. They are nothing special, just a single piece of steel, manufactured in much the same way as a traditional shovel, but it's decent steel.

As you'd expect the nylon sheath is functional but a cheapie. It can be fun the make sheaths. I fired up the router and made a wood sheath for a machete, and it worked well.

If you look in the hardware store for those rubber tips that go on chair legs and cane and crutch tips, you can find some the right size to cap the open butt end of the hollow handle. That won't make it watertight, but it will let you store a few things in the handle. Annoyingly, the tips I'm using right now are white, but I can always darken them with paint or a magic marker.

The Bushman is not one of those cool "look what I have!" knives, but it is a very simple and useful tool. I just wanted to mention it.
 
Ideally one would have two knives in a survival situation: a beefy fixed blade, full tang & a folder. No longer own any fixed blades but do have a few folders. For folders Kershaw and Zero Tolerance are excellent.
 
I can't believe none of the glock guys haven't reccomended the glock knife. Way back when I was a glock guy I bought the one with the saw on the back and it is always in my truck. You can cut down a tree with it. I cut down our Xmas tree one year with it. They are great durable knives that are balanced for throwing.
+1 on that. IMHO the Glock M81 offers great design and value for the $.
 
To be honest, I've never gotten into any of that serration business. A sharp knife of good steel will go through 4" of Kevlar hawser like butter.. a thousand times

For me it is for fishing. Cutting braided line is a simple task with a serrated blade. Otherwise it can be kind of a b&%^.
I have caught big logs/fish on my hook that start taking my line down river like crazy. Stuff is too expensive to allow it to flow down river and a straight edge does not cut as quick and easy when line is moving. If it was not for fishing I would not care about the edge so much. Love my Kershaw though.
 
I agree, for survival, you got to have at least part of the blade serrated. I like the Cold Steel Recon - it has a sharp point that's really strong and has serrations down on part of the blade for cutting rope, etc.

For me it is for fishing. Cutting braided line is a simple task with a serrated blade. Otherwise it can be kind of a b&%^.
I have caught big logs/fish on my hook that start taking my line down river like crazy. Stuff is too expensive to allow it to flow down river and a straight edge does not cut as quick and easy when line is moving. If it was not for fishing I would not care about the edge so much. Love my Kershaw though.
 
Im still not convinced serrations are good for much unless your around rope - fishing, boating, diving etc.

Keeping your knife sharp should be enough to do everything a knife should do.

It's a chevy / ford thing though so I'm not hating on you serration lover's, just not a fan myself (though I was for a long time and have many knives that are all or partially serrated).
 
I see your point. I was just thinking that if it's for survival, you're going to be around rope at some point whether it's to fish, or create a shelter, build traps, etc. If you can only bring one knife with you you might as well bring a knife that can handle anything. If you have the luxury of two knives then a non-serrated knife would be a great complement.
 
I see your point. I was just thinking that if it's for survival, you're going to be around rope at some point whether it's to fish, or create a shelter, build traps, etc. If you can only bring one knife with you you might as well bring a knife that can handle anything. If you have the luxury of two knives then a non-serrated knife would be a great complement.

Touché;)

I'm an over packer in general, but after trying to find the one knife I've come down to still packing a few.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XH5H6W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Best all around knife for the money. They're also made in Portland, OR. Good for:

- Making snares
- Sharping sticks
- Gutting animals
- Sharping things
- Cutting things
- Feel is EXTREMELY GOOD

What more could you ask for?! Best knife I've ever owned

However, I would also recommend buying a good speciality knife for gutting
The Prodigy is my primary survival knife and the one I gave each of my kids (trading out for a first gen CS SRK I gave each of them years ago). I also have an LMF II, which is a better knife, but heavier and most costly - very similar to the Prodigy.
 

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