Surplus shop Special, Large ALICE style ruck in woodland, I modded.

CamoDeafie · Mar 31, 2021

Ordered the bag from an online surplus shop. Supposedly US made. 500D Cordura, all hardware looks correct.
Quality is not quite there... but for $80, I expected something better. Don't know why I expect finish work level of quality

just 30 minutes with a hot knife could have made it that much better... loose threads and raw edges everywhere on the inside. Outside looks pretty good though. Raw edges, I see a lot on MOLLE gear from USGI contracts, so that can be forgivable but the loose threads that weren't even cut and sealed/melted?

so. I spent some time with a lighter and shears on it. I bought it purely so I could add it to the MOLLE II frame with woodland suspension.. at least whoever made this bag didn't do the USGI method of folding over the strap ends twice then bartack them... so that made it stupid simple to mod to fit the MOLLE frame without cutting or sewing. First up, all the photos of the lack of quality finish work.

CamoDeafie · Mar 31, 2021

Next up, the photos of the mods, I added 5 Fastex buckles, two tan triglides, some black metal 3-bar sliders, and foliage green cordlocks.. the tan triglides are for the top frame mounts, the steel 3-bar buckles are to retain the loose straps, and I undid the stitches and removed 3 metal buckles and replaced with fastex buckles. The two main strap metal buckles are still present, but I sewn up the straps to the buckles, so that I can keep the buckles on, or use the metal buckles if desired. Just did not feel like undoing long stitches and then redoing them just to remove the metal buckles and use Fastexes...

CamoDeafie · Apr 3, 2021

Got some information from other forum's resident vets; seems it was common for issued gear if brand new, to have loose threads and so forth.

I would suggest this mod for anyone wanting to stay affordable, yet durable
Molle II frame, cheaper than 1606AC/MC/FILBE
Suspension and belt, depends, can find good deals, cheapest ACU gravelflauge
Large ALICE Ruck, can be had from $25 to $80+ depending on condition, newness, issued green or commercial, most expensive are Tactical Tailor rucks and Fire Force USA rucks
The Large ALICE is a good size for most things, not too huge, not too small.

To make Large ALICE fit the MOLLE II frame, a pair of triglides or three bar metal sliders, a lighter, and sturdy scissors if the lid straps have sewn ends. If lid straps have simply cut/sealed ends, then that makes it much simpler.

Its a good alternative option compared to full MOLLE II Rucks, FILBE ruck, ILBE ruck, or trying to get comfortable with the metal ALICE frame.

OrPackrat · Apr 3, 2021

A suggestion I would make for sealing loose threads, instead of using a lighter, use a plasma lighter, less chance of damaging what you don't want and gives far greater precision.

I use the plasma lighter for loose threads fixing with reflective jackets as using a lighter can easily melt a hole in a new jacket.

CamoDeafie · Apr 3, 2021

OrPackrat said:
A suggestion I would make for sealing loose threads, instead of using a lighter, use a plasma lighter, less chance of damaging what you don't want and gives far greater precision.

I use the plasma lighter for loose threads fixing with reflective jackets as using a lighter can easily melt a hole in a new jacket.

Interesting, the Cordura and pack cloth I usually work with, doesn't take a flame very well but can melt pretty good.. usually the threads are what melts before the fabric.. but it also works with fraying edges as well. Ideally, a hotknife would be the best to cut Cordura and nylon fabrics since the heat also seals the edges and keeps the fabrics from melting... its just I have a hard time justifying the cost of the good hotknife fabric cutters that Sailrite and other companies sell. So I usually use binding tape or roll the edges into a sealed hem/seam.

CamoDeafie · Apr 6, 2021

Binding tape arrived in mail a few days ago, into the neighbor's mailbox

they gave me the package yesterday, and now that I have the tape, and the Singer Heavy Duty 4411 set up and oiled and ready to go, I went and sealed the raw edges of the main seams, then stitched the folded over tape onto the edges for an encased seam. The 500D's backside is tacky, so that made it a bit wonky to keep straight when the machine isn't inset into a cabinet or table... that's probably the next recommended thing to do when I can. Singer Even Feed foot helped a bit, although it isn't a true walking foot type.

CamoDeafie · Apr 27, 2022

Finished the Fastex mod today. By that, I mean removing the final 2 metal friction buckles, and sewing the Tan 499 buckles their place. Now debating if I should send to Tactical Tailor for Claymore sized lid pocket, and their 5-pocket mod.. or if I should just make my own ruck mods. Mods like these..
New lid that has 270 degree zipper and maybe a low profile pocket, for my Catoma bednet and shelter tarp,
Remove 3 little pockets and those 2 webbing pieces, sew up 3 new pockets and sew them to these locations
Sew up 2 long ALICE clippable pockets for the sides, which can be removed if desired. I do have some 500D Cordura in Woodland that's a pretty close match.
Used the Singer 15-91 for this since I still need to do some adjustments on the larger Singer 31-20 Industrial machine.. its presser foot needs aligning so the needle doesn't rub on its side.

CamoDeafie · Jul 5, 2022

So. I took off the 3 little pockets, which was a single piece of fabric, plus 3 separate pieces for the flaps, and the 2 pieces of webbing; and then I decided to put 4 buckles on the lid straps so that I could mount the Combat Patrol Pack from https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/modded-a-cfp90-patrol-radio-pack-into-sling-bag.376866/ this thread. I'm kinda liking the relative slick look with the upper pockets and webbing pieces removed. It reminds me of a much modernized 10th Mtn Ruck in Woodland. The webbing near the frame are still on, in case I decide I want to make 2 removable tall side pockets.

CamoDeafie · Aug 21, 2022

The Large ALICE Ruck mod saga continues....

So recently, I acquired a couple yards of heavy duty mesh from Ahh.biz's e-store...
Here they are next to the brown tint Ebay Ranger Green mesh and the E-TLBV and MOLLE 1 vests I have; green tint Ranger Green TP21 on the left, brown tint Ranger Green TP21 mesh on the right, 3mm Hex Mesh in "Olive Drab" on the bottom right. That particular mesh looks way closer to Camo Green.

The two TP21 Mil Spec meshes are far more flexible and comfortable for vest fabric whereas the Olive Drab 3mm Hex Mesh is way stiffer than Nancy Pelosi, and rougher on the skin than the ATF wit pistol brace.... its really more a totebag/pocket mesh than a vest mesh IMO. I decided to remove the lid from the woodland camo Large ALICE rucksack, then make a mesh pocket with Camo Green 483 binding tape and the 3mm mesh, finished it off with a Foliage Green surface mount buckle and Camo Green webbing, then reattached the lid to the rucksack. It now can hold my USMC Catoma Improved Bed Net pop up bug tent, and I still have the use of the original lid flat pocket. I'm still unsure if I want to add to the ruck where I stripped the old 3 little pockets off...