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That right there lives up to the moniker. Not to proud to admit I'm a little jealous.
For 1911s, I like Wilson Ultima Lube. Tetra or TW25B works too.
Looking forward to range report.
Boss
Last Edited:
- Thread Starter
- #163
@Boss
Don't take this as directed at you personally.
Over the years of my dealing with firearms, since being in the Army, I've had (and used religiously) Break-Free CLP that has worked great.
All the new lubricants out there use to get my attention, then I find a thread related where someone "asks", what's the best?
From reading the responses, lubricants are like bungholes. Everyone likes or uses something different. As the thread really gets input,
the bungoles (suggestions/I use, yadda, yadda, yadda) are in the masses.
I can't give a number how many brands or reviews on like products I've seen, read of, or watched video reviews about.
I got so irritated by that push, to where I needed to make a choice, I said eff it, back to what I've been using, and forget about it.
My supply of CLP is slowly coming down to an empty bottle, so I will eventually need to buy more.
So now is the time for crossing over to a new product.
So, convince me. Please.
All y'all others...........HUSH!! Just go with it. LOL.
One thing with me, I got a BIG problem paying $20/oz!!
I'll assume you've been in the "new, what's best" side of criteria a while?
I got a tub of white Lubriplate for grease. Never tried it on guns. My grandpa was a machinist and swore by it.
Don't take this as directed at you personally.
Over the years of my dealing with firearms, since being in the Army, I've had (and used religiously) Break-Free CLP that has worked great.
All the new lubricants out there use to get my attention, then I find a thread related where someone "asks", what's the best?
From reading the responses, lubricants are like bungholes. Everyone likes or uses something different. As the thread really gets input,
the bungoles (suggestions/I use, yadda, yadda, yadda) are in the masses.
I can't give a number how many brands or reviews on like products I've seen, read of, or watched video reviews about.
I got so irritated by that push, to where I needed to make a choice, I said eff it, back to what I've been using, and forget about it.
My supply of CLP is slowly coming down to an empty bottle, so I will eventually need to buy more.
So now is the time for crossing over to a new product.
So, convince me. Please.
All y'all others...........HUSH!! Just go with it. LOL.
One thing with me, I got a BIG problem paying $20/oz!!
I'll assume you've been in the "new, what's best" side of criteria a while?
I got a tub of white Lubriplate for grease. Never tried it on guns. My grandpa was a machinist and swore by it.
CLP is just fine, its been a good Lube for a long time (just make sure you shake it, apply per instructions) Seems to work decent with about anything. And that Armory coatfinish on your pistol should have some self lubricatng properties.
In my mind, Wilson knows his way around a 1911, so for 1911s, I use some of his products...have for awhile. But truth be told, most modern lubes are pretty decent.
What you may find is a tight 1911 might be a little more lube sensitive than say a Glock (shocking
)...at least until its broken in (maybe, maybe not).
Some don't think about is the difference in the viscosity of oil vs. grease, particularly if you carry vertically in holster, especially in hot weather...grease may stay in place better. Less of a concern for range guns.
Ol' Slab sides is all metal...sliding and camming together...good lube is a worthwhile investment. CLP with some quality grease on the critical contact points is good practice IMHO.
Hilton Yam is also 1911 authority worth paying attention to:
10-8 Performance 1911 User's Guide by Hilton Yam
Boss
In my mind, Wilson knows his way around a 1911, so for 1911s, I use some of his products...have for awhile. But truth be told, most modern lubes are pretty decent.
What you may find is a tight 1911 might be a little more lube sensitive than say a Glock (shocking
)...at least until its broken in (maybe, maybe not).Some don't think about is the difference in the viscosity of oil vs. grease, particularly if you carry vertically in holster, especially in hot weather...grease may stay in place better. Less of a concern for range guns.
Ol' Slab sides is all metal...sliding and camming together...good lube is a worthwhile investment. CLP with some quality grease on the critical contact points is good practice IMHO.
Hilton Yam is also 1911 authority worth paying attention to:
10-8 Performance 1911 User's Guide by Hilton Yam
Boss
Last Edited:
- Thread Starter
- #165
It's late, but thought to hop on in here.
All duly noted. Thanks for sharing what you have.
The link, that will be very useful for me, considering this is my first. All food for thought.
Stuff like what's contained at 10-8 Performance, great resource.
I downloaded/saved the whole page to put in my archives.
Thanks again.
All duly noted. Thanks for sharing what you have.
The link, that will be very useful for me, considering this is my first. All food for thought.
Stuff like what's contained at 10-8 Performance, great resource.
I downloaded/saved the whole page to put in my archives.
Thanks again.
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...takes anything off of anything....including the paint off of a brand new 1987 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz...
$6.03 + tax for a 16 oz. aerosol can at the local NAPA.
^^Personally, I'd avoid that with the Armory Coat...I'd stick to a regular/specific gun cleaner. Your CLP should would fine. Things like above usually leave items bone dry, perhaps with some residue. Unless you want to detail strip you new pistol and relube, or you have something like Cylinder & Slides 'Dunkit' (where you submerge the whole pistol...actually works pretty well in combination with other efforts).
A basic field strip with toothbrush and Q-Tips ought to have you ready to rock & roll.
BOSS
A basic field strip with toothbrush and Q-Tips ought to have you ready to rock & roll.
BOSS
- Thread Starter
- #168
I've used Brake-Kleen a lot of times. As you point out @Boss, I agree.
Spraying/dipping a cleaning agent on things that can't be completely disassembled, is asking for trouble.
The de-grease products are great for what they are, when used accordingly. In other words, it pays to read the labels fine print.
In my feeble years of learning the hard way, it tended to be costly, as DeanMk has mentioned above.
Which brings to memory the times my father was pretty heavily invested, into refreshing his 1955 Thunderbird.
After having meticulously cleaned and prepped his chariot for a new coat of paint, off to the paint shop it went.
About two weeks later the car looked like new again. It was painted back to the factory red. He was proud.
Well, one beautiful summer day, he and one of his long time friends went for a drive. Day turned to night, and no sign of either of them.
The next morning I noticed his chariot in the driveway. My mom told me that my dad got home early in the morning, drunk as a skunk. Nothing out of the ordinary, really. He was a hard working man M-F, and when the end of the week arrived, he and his buddy would go have their fun.
Dad got up about 10am. He was Hung------Over. He made a cup of coffee. Moaned and groaned a little, then out the door he went.
He went to his chariot for something. A few minutes later he come back inside the house. His eyes were already bloodshot, but he looked like he was crying. My mom asked him, why are your eyes watering so much? He replied, last night I got so sh!tfaced drunk, George drove me home. I rode in the passenger seat. My dad says, my eyes are watering because, I apparently got sick and puked.
On the door of my car. And now the paint on the door is all bubbled up, and needs repainted. Mom said, told ya so. My dad never lived that one down.
Spraying/dipping a cleaning agent on things that can't be completely disassembled, is asking for trouble.
The de-grease products are great for what they are, when used accordingly. In other words, it pays to read the labels fine print.
In my feeble years of learning the hard way, it tended to be costly, as DeanMk has mentioned above.
Which brings to memory the times my father was pretty heavily invested, into refreshing his 1955 Thunderbird.
After having meticulously cleaned and prepped his chariot for a new coat of paint, off to the paint shop it went.
About two weeks later the car looked like new again. It was painted back to the factory red. He was proud.
Well, one beautiful summer day, he and one of his long time friends went for a drive. Day turned to night, and no sign of either of them.
The next morning I noticed his chariot in the driveway. My mom told me that my dad got home early in the morning, drunk as a skunk. Nothing out of the ordinary, really. He was a hard working man M-F, and when the end of the week arrived, he and his buddy would go have their fun.
Dad got up about 10am. He was Hung------Over. He made a cup of coffee. Moaned and groaned a little, then out the door he went.
He went to his chariot for something. A few minutes later he come back inside the house. His eyes were already bloodshot, but he looked like he was crying. My mom asked him, why are your eyes watering so much? He replied, last night I got so sh!tfaced drunk, George drove me home. I rode in the passenger seat. My dad says, my eyes are watering because, I apparently got sick and puked.
On the door of my car. And now the paint on the door is all bubbled up, and needs repainted. Mom said, told ya so. My dad never lived that one down.
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If that finish is fragile, then yes, I would agree. Because carb cleaner will pull the tan off your skin, it works so well.
However, anytime you clean anything, you should always oil it afterwards.
I made the assumption that you guys knew this....getting the feeling I may be wrong about that.
...FWIW, when I oil my guns, I still use that old can of Outer's we've had for years. Good stuff.
Last Edited:
- Thread Starter
- #170
You assume correctly. It's like a new car at the moment! Lol.
Outers is a good product. I have a few cans in my cabinet.
I have a few UHMW wedges that made reinstall of the slide-lock, idiot free. Cleaned and lubed
^^Sweet.
I wouldn't say Armory Coat is 'fragile,' but I wouldn't deliberately take an automotive stripping-type agent to those types of finishes it without reason or perhaps doing a little more research. For things like stainless pistols, the spray cleaners (specific firearms ones, particularly the polymer safe versions) can be super handy for getting a 'deep/thorough' hose down (its sometimes surprising how much debris will wash out). But if that process includes enclosed internals, it can be hard to get them properly lubed/oiled again.
When I do the 'hose down' thing, its followed by a spin through the C&S Dunkit, which will get all the internals (without the detail strip), and then other oils/greases to preference.
Been working fine for me for years, YMMV.
Now, weekend approaches, go skin that smoke wagon ASAP!
Boss
I wouldn't say Armory Coat is 'fragile,' but I wouldn't deliberately take an automotive stripping-type agent to those types of finishes it without reason or perhaps doing a little more research. For things like stainless pistols, the spray cleaners (specific firearms ones, particularly the polymer safe versions) can be super handy for getting a 'deep/thorough' hose down (its sometimes surprising how much debris will wash out). But if that process includes enclosed internals, it can be hard to get them properly lubed/oiled again.
When I do the 'hose down' thing, its followed by a spin through the C&S Dunkit, which will get all the internals (without the detail strip), and then other oils/greases to preference.
Been working fine for me for years, YMMV.
Now, weekend approaches, go skin that smoke wagon ASAP!
Boss
- Thread Starter
- #172
I'm hoping to get out there soon.
I have some others that need to get wrung out as well.
Other miscellaneous bits & pieces are still in route yet.
The stock grips, they're not bad in the hand.
The OD green lower, the images at Springfield reference the green as being much lighter.
I was really surprised when I seen it in person. I was a little bummed out because of the difference, but it's growing on me.
I have some others that need to get wrung out as well.
Other miscellaneous bits & pieces are still in route yet.
The stock grips, they're not bad in the hand.
The OD green lower, the images at Springfield reference the green as being much lighter.
I was really surprised when I seen it in person. I was a little bummed out because of the difference, but it's growing on me.
- Thread Starter
- #173
Here's a question I can not find the answer too. A little info first.
The purchase of Springfield Loaded MC, did not come in a case.
Meaning there is no sticker, like normally found. My pistol come in a range bag.
The entirety come inside a manufacturers box.
There are stickers with UPC code, one with serial #, and a sticker with model info.
What I'm wanting to know is the build date, found by serial number, online.
I searched with common sense to relative result, and I don't find where I can cross reference to any data.
Do we have access to this anywhere? A model build data/cross reference as source?
I know. Call Springfield.
That's too easy.
The purchase of Springfield Loaded MC, did not come in a case.
Meaning there is no sticker, like normally found. My pistol come in a range bag.
The entirety come inside a manufacturers box.
There are stickers with UPC code, one with serial #, and a sticker with model info.
What I'm wanting to know is the build date, found by serial number, online.
I searched with common sense to relative result, and I don't find where I can cross reference to any data.
Do we have access to this anywhere? A model build data/cross reference as source?
I know. Call Springfield.
That's too easy.
Dunno if you're male, female, etc. But, if you're a dude, you just lost your man card.
- Thread Starter
- #178
All my previous commentary is straight up interest, based on the guidance I received at the time.
I wanted Colt, or Springfield. I bought Springfield.
If you haven't read the whole thread, read it.
I wanted what I bought. End of story.
I wanted Colt, or Springfield. I bought Springfield.
If you haven't read the whole thread, read it.
I wanted what I bought. End of story.
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Would I be correct, that is the Marine Corps Loaded Operator? Looks sharp, grips are like my TRP Operator . . . they bite the hand after a bit, but they sure do prevent slip. I'm sure you'll have a Blast with it!
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