Stuck AR15 buffer-tube castle nut

[Sagaba]

I've been on google, arfcom, THR etc looking for ideas. I bought a DPMS M4 6 months ago. I want to switch to an A2 stock. I thought it was a 2 min task. Boy was I wrong. I can't get it to move a micrometer. So far I have:

- Frozen it for two hours in a very cold freezer.
- Hit it with a propane torch thoroughly.
- Used a vise with cloth around the buffer tube, all it does is spin.
- I have a 3 nipple wrench, the flat kind.

STILL nothing. Anybody? Google-foo shows dumba$$ DPMS uses Locktite on the threads instead of staking it like they should... if this is the case that may be the last dpms I buy.

Read More

 

[Swedish K]

just out of curiosity did you remove the buffer retainer and try screwing out the tube? most tubes have the notch at the front that the buffer retainer pokes up through to keep the buffer from coming forward which also prevents the buffer tube from unscrewing - if you are lucky they didn't locktite between the tube and the lower and it will come loose that way

 

[Velzey]

I have found blue locktite under them. If you have used propane, well that should have worked. Ive had to use a dremel and the small cut off wheel. Go slow and dont go all the way thru, just close. It will release and unscrew.

 

[mjbskwim]

Guess I'll stick to building ARs

 

[BAMCIS]

I had little bit of a hard time taking mine off of my BCM's because the castle nut was staked as per mil-spec. You may need a longer "castle nut wrench" or "spanner wrench" so you can get more leverage.

This is the best tutorial I found on this: AR-15 - Remove a Staked Castle Nut - YouTube

Let us know how this turns out.

 

[Sagaba]

There's no staking marks. It has to be locktite or similar. I ended up giving up and walked away from it for awhile. A longer wrench may do it but at what pressure? I'm already trying with what I think is about 70lbs with a 3 tooth wrench while hot from propane. there's no easy answer I'm afraid.

 

[erudne]

use penetrating oil, let it soak a long time

 

[Inspector]

Kroil is your friend.

 

[simon99]

use penetrating oil, let it soak a long time

I agree with erudne.....I had a similar situation and thought I'd have to borrow Thor's Hammer for the job, but I soaked it with penetrating oil ( like really soaked) overnight, applied a little heat and it came apart easier...no hernia required.

 

[SICARIO]

You might try a dead blow hammer on the wrench. I've had to do that a few times on stuck castle nuts, yours may be harder than what I've experienced before though.

 

[Velzey]

I can have that nut off there in less than 5 minutes.....

 

[Doc In UPlace]

I have one of the Brownells 4-point wrenches and they are the absolute shizzle.


Having the right tool for the job really helps, if you can afford it, it'll last forever, or as much forever as humans need.

 

[Doc In UPlace]

And +1 on KRIOL. It's also great for octagonal Glock barrel cleaning and loosening up .22 residue.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

If it was put on with the "permanent" Loctite you'll need to get it pretty hot to melt the Loctite. I had to remove the stock gas block from my Bushmaster barrel and it was glued on with "permanent" Loctite. I had to use a propane torch and get it pretty hot before it would begin to move.

 

[coop44]

I have an industrial heat gun, like a blow dryer on steroids, harbor freight is my friend. try heating the tube about an inch or so from the nut.

 

[nextgenar]

Wow my first thought was a staked nut ive had to drill out a few that were staked really hard but with no marks from staking I would guess loctite you could try soaking around the nut with acetone just make sure you don't get it on any plastic parts as it will melt them the acetone should soften the loctite