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Briley is the American Expert in this kind of work but they don't come cheep. I have had them remove dents in shotgun barrels and in the process, they also check them for straightness. They would R&R the rib I am sure. Economically, I am sure it would be best to find a good barrel. But as a project it would be interesting. Briley uses hydraulic tools for the work. You might be able to build a tool and use a porta power. Or is the bend far enough forward to cut off the barrel.......off course, you would loose the choke. Fine European gunmakers straighten and align barrels on all the guns they build but that is after decades of apprenticeship and experiance. New England Gun would also be able to do it. They can actually unsolder double barrel's and reregulate them.
 
I will reach out to a guy I know in the shotgun world. He's a "good old boy" and president of a local trap club to get his thoughts as well once I shoot/pattern it. I appreciate all the input/ideas.
 
Briley is the American Expert in this kind of work but they don't come cheep. I have had them remove dents in shotgun barrels and in the process, they also check them for straightness. They would R&R the rib I am sure. Economically, I am sure it would be best to find a good barrel. But as a project it would be interesting. Briley uses hydraulic tools for the work. You might be able to build a tool and use a porta power. Or is the bend far enough forward to cut off the barrel.......off course, you would loose the choke. Fine European gunmakers straighten and align barrels on all the guns they build but that is after decades of apprenticeship and experiance. New England Gun would also be able to do it. They can actually unsolder double barrel's and reregulate them.

I likely won't be sending it off for any spendy repairs. Just not worth it to me. I've looked for another barrel like this one and can't find it in 3" and threaded for chokes. I did find another in 2 3/4" and fixed Mod for $300. I picked this one up around $80 so I'm not out too much and still have my good barrel if it goes south.
 
I believe most shotgun barrel makers or experienced smiths use a press and adjust them visually by looking through it.
For sure, an accrued talent albeit not rocket science.

None the less, if the barrel is junk, and you can scam the press mechanics plus a little help from a buddy and maybe a six pack, you got nothing to lose.
Could be a fun project with bragging rights if successful.
Definitely remove the rib first. Bore holes through wood and slice in half to make saddles curved to fit the barrel at each spot will ward against flats.
View attachment 428778 View attachment 428777

This is the 3 point vise method i was talking about. You can set up a normal vise to do the same effect with wooden dowels.
 
I agree with you on the rib. It's not there for support AFAIK. it's just that most of what I've read about taking the rib off is tedious and even if done right, ends in a barrel that needs to be reblued.
That would indeed add to the challenge. I'm inline with @IronMonster on the try it first, then go for it if not cost effective for a professional.
Should you decide to go that route, might I suggest "Belgian Blue" as a do it yourself finish.
Art's Belgian Blue Cold Blue Liquid
I have refinished many things with it and is a very durable and easy to apply. Your biggest challenge in its application (besides patients) would be a 30 inch tank for boiling water to heat the barrel in.
I built mine from a piece of gutter with soldered end caps, and a couple hot plates but necessity is the mother of invention so I'm sure there are many ways to get the job done according to what you can find..
It is my great fortune to have an Ethoes given to me by an even greater fortune, my wife.
The only shot gun I now own with a rib, It has a replaceable carbon fiber rib and with a ten year warranty which begins anew should it be ever used, I'll not need to solder anything on it, least of all the rib.
Good luck with your adventure

As an aside if using the Belgian Blue; you must thoroughly boil the last application of Blue to neutralize the chemical or months later your blue finish will slowly turn brown. Still, will look real good and bright if applied to a polished surface. It will also be durable but will look like some extant arms you might have seen.
Here is my ten year old first effort that turned brown:
IMGP0247.JPG
Well used but still looks good
 

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