Steel bushings for trigger pins?

[Dr Prepper]

Anyone else ever think about oversizing their trigger pin holes, drilling and tapping them out to like 5/16 or 3/8" and tapping them (with a finer thread or specialty pattern) and then perm. installing them. Maybe even swage them in? And then drilling and tapping those steel inserts to .154-.156"?
And then if you REALLY feel obsesive you could install a anti rotation pin kit or similar?

Anyone ever had wobbly or out of tolerance holes they had to repair?

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[TTSX]

3/8 would be a REALLLLY big trigger pin

 

[Dr Prepper]

More area to interface and transfer shock. But ill admit i dont have a lower sitting by me to look at 3/8 might be too big, but its kinda beside my point i was just throwing numbers off the top of my head.
I guess i gotta admit i was also thinking about the safey lever which is bigger (of course) i figure if your going to do the pins you might as well do the safety too even thought its totally unesissary.
You know what they say: "if your going to do something, do it over kill" (or something like that.. )

 

[P7M13]

No.

 

[Dr Prepper]

No.

What about 1/4"? Was i too specific?

 

[Dr Prepper]

Was watching a newer episode with our very own pacific northwest's flannel daddy (garand thumb) who was reviewing a "gen 12" semi auto shotgun from idaho.
It uses a AR10 or dpms pattern lower (dont get me started an the nomenclature) but apparently the action is so violent anti walk pins are required for it.
Would be a good case for something like this.

 

[P7M13]

No because if you have a wowied hole, you have bigger problems.
If it's a former 80% where someone bunged the details, there are probably worse surprises.
To do it right:

1. You need a precision jig with heat treated steel bushings or a mill.
2. For heavens sake, do not use a drill, use an end mill
3. Look at Pic Design, you can probably find case hardened bushings with ID to match the trigger pin. Those would need to be press fit into an interference fit hole. Again, another jig needed for this task as the press in force is not insubstantial.
4. Anti-walk pins would be required.

The cost would exceed a new lower, so the answer would still be no.
Paperweight, that is, until lowers are outlawed.
Yes, all this can be done by hand with proper care and precision, but I don't see the value in applying such skill to what amounts to a Lego brick.
I had an AR10 where the holes were good but the trigger pin had worn internally, causing the trigger to not reset properly and even firing two rounds with one pull.
Replaced and problem gone.

 

[DirectDrive]

No.
It would be an answer to a problem that does not typically exist.

One exception...
High round count full auto receiver.
That one has to be saved, therefore if it has wallowed out pin holes, it is "bushed" .

 

[edzz]

OP did not indicate what gun this was in reference to, personally I see no reason to install steel bushings in my steel framed 1911.

 

[DirectDrive]

OP did not indicate what gun this was in reference to, personally I see no reason to install steel bushings in my steel framed 1911.

Yeah, it was unclear.
The consensus seems to be an AR of some flavor.

 

[msgriff]

For AR's, the Elftmann Match Pro Trigger with the Pro- Lock mounting system is as about as solid as it gets.

 

[Dr Prepper]

No.
It would be an answer to a problem that does not typically exist.

One exception...
High round count full auto receiver.
That one has to be saved, therefore if it has wallowed out pin holes, it is "bushed" .

Yeah this is kinda more the scenario i was thinking of, a lower that basically cant be repalced and needed to be saved. As i dont have one i was more curious than anything.

In original post i didnt mention specifics but i gave another example in post #6.
Theres scenarios were i could see it being worth the while. And none of that seems remotely impossible to me. And your not supposed to ever use end mills to plunge drill holes. Techincally even ramping is frowned upon. End mills are basically for side cutting only. There's also different styles of end mills but your typical end mill is what im thinking of.
BUT i assume you meant that in a general reference, You sound like you probably already know that.

 

[DirectDrive]

Yeah this is kinda more the scenario i was thinking of, a lower that basically cant be repalced and needed to be saved. As i dont have one i was more curious than anything.

In original post i didnt mention specifics but i gave another example in post #6.
Theres scenarios were i could see it being worth the while. And none of that seems remotely impossible to me. And your not supposed to ever use end mills to plunge drill holes. Techincally even ramping is frowned upon. End mills are basically for side cutting only. There's also different styles of end mills but your typical end mill is what im thinking of.
BUT i assume you meant that in a general reference, You sound like you probably already know that.

You would still want to bush the wallowed out hole if it was an irreplaceable lower (ie. registered full auto)
Reason being, everything stays standard diameters and not some odd ball pin size which would require re-working the internals to fit the new pin size, blah, blah, blah.
Volunteering for a giant can of worms for no good reason.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Reason being, everything stays standard diameters and not some odd ball pin size

...no one is talking about this...
Re read the posts.

Seems to me like its a chronic problem on forums for people to read the first part of a post and then comment.
Sorry i sound critical, but just my $.02

 

[DirectDrive]

...no one is talking about this...
Re read the posts.

I thought that was the premise of the entire thread.
Out.

 

[Dr Prepper]

I thought that was the premise of the entire thread.
Out.

Nope.. The premise is reinforcing the "regular" diameter pin holes. P7M13 got it..

 

[DirectDrive]

Nope.. The premise is reinforcing the "regular" diameter pin holes. P7M13 got it..

In the machine trade, your first sentence in post #1 describes what is called a bushing.
So I ran with that in my comments.
Sorry if I didn't get the gist of your thread.

 

[Dr Prepper]

In the machine trade, your first sentence in post #1 describes what is called a bushing.
So I ran with that in my comments.
Sorry if I didn't get the gist of your thread.

No worries, i did kinda start it off wrong. But cleared it up later in the post. I was kinda trying to lay it out for the average non machinist.

 

[Flopsweat]

Just slap a little JB Weld in there and then drill it back out.

 

[titsonritz]

Why not drill it out from the .155" milspec to the Colt commercial .170"? Standard triggers are available including from Geissele and velocity.
https://geissele.com/rifle-parts/lower-parts/triggers.html?size=1990-2009-colt-large-pin
https://velocitytriggers.com/product/4lb-large-pin-ar-trigger-straight/