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Ahh. I should have known that. I haven't dealt with them before but have looked at 'em. I pretty much have what I need, and it just isn't fun looking at "Out of Stock" on every item, most places. I just took a look at Powder Valley. That's who I've mostly gone to in the past. I'm still using components from them from back to 2013-14 when stuff just started coming back after Sandy Hook.

I might set up that notification with Mid South, just for the fun of it.
Mid South Shooters Supply also has had Hornady 62 gr BTHP bullets in the past for just over .11 per bullet, which has been my favorite bullet for AR's. (Yeah, I am cheap). I have never seen that bullet offered anywhere else, and it has shot well in half a dozen AR's. As for primers, I have never used the Remington 6 1/2's, but have loaded lots of the Winchesters in .223 without issue. I think you could try a few with your IMR-4064, since it burns slow enough to reduce the peak pressure, but still generates enough gas to operate the action in an AR. Keep checking at BiMart, too. The Hermiston store had CFE-223 for $26 per pound on the shelf last Friday. Powders are starting to become more available, hopefully primers will follow.
l just missed out on Remington 7 1/2's at Graf's today, a case of 5,000 for $230 plus shipping and hazmat. :(
 
Mid South Shooters Supply also has had Hornady 62 gr BTHP bullets in the past for just over .11 per bullet, which has been my favorite bullet for AR's. (Yeah, I am cheap). I have never seen that bullet offered anywhere else, and it has shot well in half a dozen AR's. As for primers, I have never used the Remington 6 1/2's, but have loaded lots of the Winchesters in .223 without issue. I think you could try a few with your IMR-4064, since it burns slow enough to reduce the peak pressure, but still generates enough gas to operate the action in an AR. Keep checking at BiMart, too. The Hermiston store had CFE-223 for $26 per pound on the shelf last Friday. Powders are starting to become more available, hopefully primers will follow.
l just missed out on Remington 7 1/2's at Graf's today, a case of 5,000 for $230 plus shipping and hazmat. :(
They've got (2) in the rifle bullets category now. Hornady and Lapua at .16 and .33.

Our local BiMart here in NE potland hasn't seen a jug of powder since last July. Give or take.
 
4064 will work(pulled down my 8x57 sold the brass and boolits but used the imr4064 in .223), do you have one of those electronic powder meters? If not, you'll want to weigh each charge manually, that gets real old real quick for plinking ammo.
 
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RMR has the 62gr @ $.12 ish...
I ordered 500 55gr FMJ from RMR earlier.

What differences in loading the 55s might I see from the 62s? Anything?
4064 will work(pulled down my 8x57 sold the brass and boolits but used the imr4064 in .223), do you have one of those electronic powder meters? If not, you'll want to weigh each charge manually, that gets real old real quick for plinking ammo.
I'm into precision. Already been loading manually for .30-06 and 6.5 Swede. I like rolling that way, it's part of the fun!
 
I ordered 500 55gr FMJ from RMR earlier.

What differences in loading the 55s might I see from the 62s? Anything?

I'm into precision. Already been loading manually for .30-06 and 6.5 Swede. I like rolling that way, it's part of the fun!
I keep thinking about a progressive, but still haven't pressed the trigger. The old Rock Chucker works. I still may get a Lee for the pistols and plinking, but I'll wait until I'm casting boolits and powder coating.
 
That is the 62 gr FMJ. Mid South has had the BTHP, although it has been many months since they have been in stock. Sure hope they get some more eventually. The BTHP is capable of ver good accuracy, in my experience.
Ahh..MIA CULPA! & Thanks on the correction. Appreciated.

-May be worthwhile for a new reloader to start with the FMJ tho, as they are in stock. Then once familiar with the reload process, move onto other projectiles?? Maybe.

Least ways that's what i'll be doing when I move onto rifle (using inexpensive projectiles purchased pre-plandemic). As i'll probably be "wasting" a bunch while I figure out the reloading/workup process for me.

Have some heavier match type projectiles put back, and am looking at RMR in house 69gr BTHP as well - $.14-$.15 per bullet depending on quantity. I'll probably put an order in on a bunch now, so i'll have them "whenever I get there".

I do recognize not everyone can, or wants to spend $ on "maybe's" or "when I get there" type of things...
 
I ordered 500 55gr FMJ from RMR earlier.

What differences in loading the 55s might I see from the 62s? Anything?

I'm into precision. Already been loading manually for .30-06 and 6.5 Swede. I like rolling that way, it's part of the fun!
Truthfully, no idea. You are far more advanced reloading than I am. Haven't reloaded for rifle yet...

My interest in this thread is more along the lines of inventory available, at what cost.
 
My interest in this thread is more along the lines of inventory available, at what cost.
Using the Reloading Components feature in AmmoSeek is one way of finding some deals.
Not all the popular vendors are going to be on AmmoSeek.
Be sure to view the vendor ratings before you buy.
They are right there by the product.
 
Truthfully, no idea. You are far more advanced reloading than I am. Haven't reloaded for rifle yet...

My interest in this thread is more along the lines of inventory available, at what cost.

You mention you think you'll be ruining components when you start loading rifle? I don't see that happening. Didn't happen to me. Once you get lubing down, which I though would be more scary, ( pulling the neck expander button up through the neck had more resistance than the actual sizing parts of the stroke). I'm sizing big old .30-06 size cases so far. I'm using the RCBS pad and lube. Because that's what I had. It doesn't take but a complete roll, lightly, on the pad to get enough lube. I'm also using the Imperial dry neck lube, that I dip the neck in after lubing. The way I'm doing this isn't the best or easiest according to some other members, but it does work just fine for me, at this time.

The other part that might seem complicated is bumping the shoulder back. Once you relate to the difference between a new factory round and a fired round, (using a comparator https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...s-and-gauges/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator#!/) and then the process of bumping the shoulder back to factory specs (generally in the neighborhood of .002"-.005", or nothing if loading for a bolt gun) Then trimming, where you have .010" to play with. I don't trim all the way to "Trim To" length. I don't see the point in working that much more. The way I see it, as long as the brass is all the same is what's important.

There are more steps than doing handgun, but it tends to make it more fascinating, for me anyway!

Hey, maybe you get some 62 grain bullets and we'll split 'em between us somehow?
 
You mention you think you'll be ruining components when you start loading rifle? I don't see that happening. Didn't happen to me. Once you get lubing down, which I though would be more scary, ( pulling the neck expander button up through the neck had more resistance than the actual sizing parts of the stroke). I'm sizing big old .30-06 size cases so far. I'm using the RCBS pad and lube. Because that's what I had. It doesn't take but a complete roll, lightly, on the pad to get enough lube. I'm also using the Imperial dry neck lube, that I dip the neck in after lubing. The way I'm doing this isn't the best or easiest according to some other members, but it does work just fine for me, at this time.

The other part that might seem complicated is bumping the shoulder back. Once you relate to the difference between a new factory round and a fired round, (using a comparator https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...s-and-gauges/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator#!/) and then the process of bumping the shoulder back to factory specs (generally in the neighborhood of .002"-.005", or nothing if loading for a bolt gun) Then trimming, where you have .010" to play with. I don't trim all the way to "Trim To" length. I don't see the point in working that much more. The way I see it, as long as the brass is all the same is what's important.

There are more steps than doing handgun, but it tends to make it more fascinating, for me anyway!

Hey, maybe you get some 62 grain bullets and we'll split 'em between us somehow?
Thanks on the tips, appreciated!

-Have a bunch of FMJ's allready to start me out, plus a mix (solid copper, soft points & match). Not enough to trade out tho.
 
Thanks on the tips, appreciated!

-Have a bunch of FMJ's allready to start me out, plus a mix (solid copper, soft points & match). Not enough to trade out tho.
Yeah, whatever. I just figure when I buy something in bulk that I can always trade or sell some. I hate the though of paying $25.00 or more per 100.
 
If you want accurate plinking loads, then avoid the 62gr fmj's with the steel penetrator, those are probably the least accurate .224 boolit. I did just get a couple hundred hornady 62gr fmj's so l need to load those up and see how they shoot, the green tip stuff is usually not much better than 2moa( l'll be burning H335) and fun for a cheap high volume case trimmer, l recommend the worlds finest trimmer.
 
Mike I've got a bunch of lead core 62s. I can throw you some if ever out this way.
 
Mike I've got a bunch of lead core 62s. I can throw you some if ever out this way.
Hey, I appreciate that. I'll take you up on that. One of these days, once I get some brass processed, I'll ping you and arrange a time to get out there. You know, we still consider a drive outa' the city as entertainment. :D If there's anything I've got that you could use....We'll discuss later.
 

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