Squib Load - Stuck Bullet!

[RVTECH]

First time in 30 + years of reloading and I was out popping a few rounds off with my Taurus 605 this afternoon and on my 2nd shot I could tell it sounded weak and no dirt flying at the pine cone I was shooting at so I looked in the barrel and there was the bullet, about halfway in it's 2" barrel! Ok - what is the easiest way to remove it? I was thinking of chucking up some brass and turning something similar to a stuck case remover for a die but if someone has an easier method please advise. We will address the squib load later (3.5 gr Bullseye with a 125 gr plated HP bullet) I am suspecting a weak primer ignition - for now.

Read More

 

[pencap]

Just stick a rod in there and pound it out. You will be surprised how easy it is.

Weak primer ignition has nothing to do with it. Either the powder goes off or not. Probably undercharged it.

 

[Velzey]

If it is in there much past the forcing cone, I use a solid brass rod about .020 smaller than the bore dia.

Squirt some oil / solvent down there and let it soak for abit.

Sometimes with a smaller rod its easy to get it off center and the whacking will leave dents in the rifleing.

 

[RVTECH]

Thanks. Since then I found a rod than fit the HP cavity and pounded it out (easier than I thought) and ran back out into the woods behind the house and ran 50 through it and had one more weak one but it left the barrel. This is still a mystery because I am VERY careful when reloading.

 

[Key-Hay]

Hey RVTECH, was shootin out your area this weekend. Cowboy Action NW Regionals were out at COOSA. I saw a few squibs (both rifle and Revolver. We have sticks around for pounding out the pesky squibs.

I use Magnum primers in my 38s for my vaqueros, Have only had one no powder. The primer had enough power to pump the bullet out and make the steel target go "Ping", It should have gone "Clank".

 

[deadshot2]

I use a 1/4" drive socket extension that I've put a wrap of vinyl electrical tape around. (shrink wrap will work too)

I made this for my 9mm. Fits the bore loosely, the tape keeps the metal from contacting the rifling, and the socket end makes for a good target for a hammer. I prefer this to brass as eventually the ends of the brass "squib rod" will mushroom. A socket extension at an Auto Parts Store or Harbor Freight is cheaper than a brass rod.

Funny thing though, I had a squib and had to borrow the range squib rod. Decided to make this one out of my tool box and since then have never had to use it. Good insurance I guess to be prepared.

 

[Throckmorton]

squibs happen no matter howmany years you've been at it.
never ever even attempt to remove one with a steel punch..dont aske ma how I know sure,brass mushrooms,but it won't do the irreversible damage that a steel punch or rod .will .

key-hay,no vidoe of that ? LOL

 

[deadshot2]

squibs happen no matter howmany years you've been at it.
never ever even attempt to remove one with a steel punch..dont aske ma how I know sure,brass mushrooms,but it won't do the irreversible damage that a steel punch or rod .will .

key-hay,no vidoe of that ? LOL

Did you note how my "steel rod/punch" is covered with vinyl tape? This keeps the device centered in the bore so it can't achieve metal to metal contact.

 

[RVTECH]

Yep - I think I'll be chucking up some brass round stock in my lathe and custom making a dedicated squib removing rod for the next time - of which I hope there will be no more!

 

[Straight Shooter]

Here is one we couldn't get the squib out. Guy said there was two in it. Said it started shooting a lot of flames out the side.

 

[RVTECH]

I am still troubled by the one I had, and the one other weak round (but left the barrel) Like I said previously I am beyond careful when checking for powder in cases prior to seating bullets. One thing though i was loading with Bullseye that had been left in my RCBS powder measure with the plastic lid on it and maybe it is possible something got into it but other than filling it I never take the lid off. Who knows? Many have told me not to worry as my 'ratio' (of squibs to years reloading - one in 30 +) is virtually nothing compared to what others have experienced.

 

[Throckmorton]

I too leave powder in my hopper,but will dump 5 times before actually starting to reload,just to make sure the flow is....well,flowing.

 

[RVTECH]

Hey - maybe I DID light charge a load or two. It would be hard to notice a light load of Bullseye considering I am only charging 3.5 grains to begin with.

 

[ron]

I have reloaded for over30 years never had a squib. Loaded a lot of light 45 acp loads (4grains of bullseye & 200 swc) with out squibs. I have seen cowboy shooters sqibs as a regular accurance. I think the cowboys use extremely light loads. Alaskan copper and brass is a good source of brass rods for squibs. <broken link removed>

 

[Browning55]

Only one stuck bullet in many years. Every one from that box was acting strange. Turned out to be a bad batch of Hodgdon H-110. All remaining bullets were pulled and all charges were correct. I'm so used to visually checking every charge before seating bullets that I even do it on progressives. Slows things down a bit but worth it.

 

[RVTECH]

I'm so used to visually checking every charge before seating bullets that I even do it on progressives.

Like I previously mentioned, so am I - which is why this really concerned me. I am seriously thinking a possible light 'throw' from the powder measure on this one, and the other 'light' round from the same batch - but left the barrel. I am going to disassemble the powder measure, make sure there is nothing inhibiting the powder flow and weigh a BUNCH of the next charges before trusting it again.

 

[Sgt Nambu]

Need to chamfer those brass punches.

 

[FarmerTed1971]

Here is one we couldn't get the squib out. Guy said there was two in it. Said it started shooting a lot of flames out the side.