Sons of Liberty Gun Works 13.7” or Ballistic Advantage Hanson 13.9”

[mhayd93]

Bingo. There's also this if your willing to compromise slightly. Still MLGS just and extra .6" longer.

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In stock.

+1 to this. I have that same barrel but the 16" variant. Checks all the boxes for a very well-built, reliable, and durable barrel that should hold up well to heavy use. I haven't done any specific accuracy testing, but I see no reason to doubt that you could get 1.5-1" MOA at 100 yards out of it.

The 14.5" would be an excellent candidate for a pin-and-weld job.

 

[Member 53328]

That gearhead works mod2 basically is a stock too. Spendy, but I'd much rather give it to the private co than uncle Sam's dog blasters. Or the coffers/ whatever.
In not for defending the police but if they wanted to chant defund the AFT, I'd be all onboard with that.

Also not a fan of a tax stamp or the ATF. But after building a few pistols they were too much of a gimmick to me. And I already had suppressors. So I'm already in the "data base." Currently I'll pay to play. But I understand those who don't.

 

[monkeybutler]

Ive had this happen on BCA barrels and Lone Wolf barrels (see a pattern there i.e. cheap brands) I have several others that are fine

I'd expect any process executed with cheap-o QC to potentially degrade. I don't expect the nitrided Criterion pre-fit barrel I have on the way will have any such issue. I almost qualified my previous post with "unless it's a cheap POS." Guess I should have.

 

[RobMa]

I think they have some options left here:

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[Dr Prepper]

Also not a fan of a tax stamp or the ATF. But after building a few pistols they were too much of a gimmick to me. And I already had suppressors. So I'm already in the "data base." Currently I'll pay to play. But I understand those who don't.

"Gotta fight the system myannn..."

I'd expect any process executed with cheap-o QC to potentially degrade. I don't expect the nitrided Criterion pre-fit barrel I have on the way will have any such issue. I almost qualified my previous post with "unless it's a cheap POS." Guess I should have.

Indeed. But.. Pretty much everyone sends their parts out to specialized shops to have the nitriding done. This is where the problems occur. The base material is straight forward no matter what. The process (and quality) in between raw for to nitride shouldn't matter really at all, unless the surface finish is REALLY grotesque which in the case of barrels it isn't.. Reason would say that if you make cheap parts you also use a cheap(er/est) vendor for the nitriding as well. So little bit of hair splitting but just want to make sure others are aware.

 

[rayrunspdx]

I'll take the hit on a tax stamp for a suppressor eventually. My preference for the 13.(x) barrel has a few reasons.

1. I would prefer to pay 2a businesses for their service than the alphabet boys. Even paying a local shop $200 to cut and crown a barrel is about the same as paying for a stamp. Obviously doing just a P&W is cheaper.

2. Since most handguards for 13.7-14.5 barrels are 13" I like how they look on 13.7 inch barrels especially with a longer muzzle device like a NOX or SF 3-Prong.

3. To me RC2's look funny on 11.5's. IMHO, K cans are more aesthetically pleasing and look great on mid-length barrels.

I don't have a can yet and as such i'll be looking to build this upper and run it while waiting for the tax stamp on for the suppressor. If I tier up to a Geiselle, DD, centurion, criterion-level barrel at 13.7-14.5 it would probably result in me selling my 16" upper (especially if the new upper is a 14.5)

 

[powermad]

13.7-14.5 it would probably result in me selling my 16" upper (especially if the new upper is a 14.5)

That's what I did when I got the 14.5" finished.
Then I wound up putting an 18" one together.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Idk. Don't kick a black beauty out of bed if its a decent shooter. I think they each have their places. Short battle rifles and naturally better for CQB, and the longer stuff (usually longer than 16") is better for DMR type stuff. But yeah 16" is pretty close to 13.7"/14.5" I'd probably hock it too. Not sure if I ever got a 16"'er.

Edit: especially in times like we seem to be heading into. Remember the old adage: two is one, one is none. It might be worth keeping the extra around just for spare parts even if you don't use it.

 

[rayrunspdx]

Idk. Don't kick a black beauty out of bed if its a decent shooter. I think they each have their places. Short battle rifles and naturally better for CQB, and the longer stuff (usually longer than 16") is better for DMR type stuff. But yeah 16" is pretty close to 13.7"/14.5" I'd probably hock it too. Not sure if I ever got a 16"'er.

Edit: especially in times like we seem to be heading into. Remember the old adage: two is one, one is none. It might be worth keeping the extra around just for spare parts even if you don't use it.

True that man, there's nothing wrong with it. It's a smooth shooting upper and very accurate.

By the way, I'm looking at some of the Centurion offerings, noticed that they offer feed ramp polishing. Do any of ya'll recommend that? Can it be DIY'd to any great effect? I think i've seen people do that with a dremel or swabs on YouTube . It's just that adding that option seems to increase lead time and cost.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Idk. Don't kick a black beauty out of bed if its a decent shooter. I think they each have their places. Short battle rifles and naturally better for CQB, and the longer stuff (usually longer than 16") is better for DMR type stuff. But yeah 16" is pretty close to 13.7"/14.5" I'd probably hock it too. Not sure if I ever got a 16"'er.

Edit: especially in times like we seem to be heading into. Remember the old adage: two is one, one is none. It might be worth keeping the extra around just for spare parts even if you don't use it.

Of course I say I'd hock it.. Because I already have a 18 & 20"'er and a 14.5" sig516 uppers. I think a 16" is the only one I'm missing. Oh and a 22" 224.

 

[Dr Prepper]

True that man, there's nothing wrong with it. It's a smooth shooting upper and very accurate.

By the way, I'm looking at some of the Centurion offerings, noticed that they offer feed ramp polishing. Do any of ya'll recommend that? Can it be DIY'd to any great effect? I think i've seen people do that with a dremel or swabs on YouTube . It's just that adding that option seems to increase lead time and cost.

Yeah man. I polish ALOT if my feed ramps, VERY easy to do. Just usually flitz or whatever jeweler's rouge i usually hit it with green for SS and chrome metals and then finish it with blue for plastic/ultra fine polishing for mirror finish.
My Craddock/criterion barrel came with the feed ramp geometry improved and hand polished very nicely. I generally kinda Like to deburr some of the upper 1-2 o'clock lugs too so they don't scratch the brass mouth "neck" as bad for reloading. Polishing won't hurt anything just so long as your not removing mass material or know what your doing. Don't weaken the lugs much more if at all.

 

[Dr Prepper]

I liked the idea of the "m249" CHF barrels since we all know the m249 is a heavy volume heat hungry beast. If it works for that it should work great for the average AR and give you many years of service. I'd trust my life to mine.
Also check out the Springfield armory ratchet charging handle or whatever its called. That thing is pretty sweet. I think it has a large lip to help prevent gas to the face.
Small arm solutions tipped me off to that one. He has a good video on his rifle setup.
Also school of the american rifle also has really good barrel reviews you can geek out on those. He has a in depth review in almost every BCG and barrel out there at this point.

Edit: PS I wish someone would make a CHF .223 wylde 5 land poly 13.7"/14.5" with MLGS. Maybe with a pinned F marked FSB.

Good luck.