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So how'd this turn out? I have a tikka 7mag and I'm looking at dropping down to a 6.5 creedmoor in the super light version.I'm like you tho, and don't do 3 shots very often. I'm after a dual purpose hunting gun and secondary gun I can shoot while my girlfriend uses the HMR. You shooting your 10 shots 1 after the other or waiting between shots?
 
So how'd this turn out? I have a tikka 7mag and I'm looking at dropping down to a 6.5 creedmoor in the super light version.I'm like you tho, and don't do 3 shots very often. I'm after a dual purpose hunting gun and secondary gun I can shoot while my girlfriend uses the HMR. You shooting your 10 shots 1 after the other or waiting between shots?
Good questions. Generally i shoot what we call slow fire at my club. This is 1 shot per minute. That way you dont end up toasting the throat on your barrel. However, it also depends on the outside temperature. As for how this turned out, i love my superlite creedmoor. I dont shoot it much anymore, as i want to save it for hunting. I have other rifles that i can thrash on, so to speak. When i want to do a high volume of shooting, i pull out my $319.00 savage 12fv. When i want to shoot steel past 400 yards, i pull out the CTR's or my longrange sako A7 creed. The superlite can do it all though and its great to carry in the field. I also went back and looked through this thread and didn't see some of my entries into the 24 hour campfire moa all day long challenge. My main intention with this rifle was to get into the moa challenge and I finally did, but that was quite a while ago. I was stoked when I shot this string for that online event. Here is that target:
TInieXz.jpg

I was glad to get this rifle into the sub moa range, but if you read through the entire thread, you can see it was a challenge. The rifle had to be fine tuned with glass bedding and freefloating the barrel, to be a consistent shooter. Contrary to popular belief, they are not perfect right out of the box. At least not for the level of shooting I prefer. Hell, I bought a CTR from a mod here that wasn't up to my accuracy standards, until after glass bedding ;)..... I'm glad you asked the question though, because It's important that I added this target to the thread, as it shows how the rifle shoots now with a good handload and other refinements.. Also, welcome to northwest firearms!!!
 
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I bought the same rifle , mainly because of the 5.9lbs
Added a Mountain tactical rail(10moa) and the SS recoil lug Weaver Backcountry rings
One thing on my break in was, somewhat wet chamber somewhat hard bolt lift, which showed (to me) a very smooth and polished chamber. Bought some bore/chamber mops.
I did try to "dry" the chamber with a clean patch.
9 rounds down the tubes far.
Sweet rifle to handle, cleans easy. The S&B ammo was dirty somewhat.
On to better bench REST and shoot it more. I do like the rifle a lot though.

Probably kill elk and better than a 7mm-08.
 
I bought the same rifle , mainly because of the 5.9lbs
Added a Mountain tactical rail(10moa) and the SS recoil lug Weaver Backcountry rings
One thing on my break in was, somewhat wet chamber somewhat hard bolt lift, which showed (to me) a very smooth and polished chamber. Bought some bore/chamber mops.
I did try to "dry" the chamber with a clean patch.
9 rounds down the tubes far.
Sweet rifle to handle, cleans easy. The S&B ammo was dirty somewhat.
On to better bench REST and shoot it more. I do like the rifle a lot though.

Probably kill elk and better than a 7mm-08.
Great post. However, I don't know if the creed is "better" than the old 7mm08. They are both very good cartridges with excellent ballistic qualities. Either will work exceptionally well on deer and elk, if the right bullets are used... I'm glad you mentioned the S&B ammo. I buy the soft points, not the fmj that you can also buy for about $15/box. The ammo shoots surprisingly well and I've reloaded some of the brass 3 times now, just to test it. I've heard of some people having issues with the fmj ammo brass splitting, so I don't buy it. I don't know why they would use different brass between the hunting line and the fmj line though? They probably don't, but when you hear about the S&B brass splitting, its always the fmj ammo...
 
I was just "poking"pharm 7mm-08
My longest elk was about 127yrds. 35 Whelen 250 gr 42"x42" split the heart in half top aortas remained attached.
Old guy of Elmer keith's Age swore by SD, bore dia to length he made a 35 Whelen(my first one) and stated his preference for 275 gr bullets in it. That would be a long bullet.
My 6.5 cm ammo S&B was SP looks like a nice expanding bullet.
The 6.5 CM shoots so soft like a 6.8spc ll, great starter rifle cal. I would think.
 
I bought the same rifle , mainly because of the 5.9lbs
Added a Mountain tactical rail(10moa) and the SS recoil lug Weaver Backcountry rings
One thing on my break in was, somewhat wet chamber somewhat hard bolt lift, which showed (to me) a very smooth and polished chamber. Bought some bore/chamber mops.
I did try to "dry" the chamber with a clean patch.
9 rounds down the tubes far.
Sweet rifle to handle, cleans easy. The S&B ammo was dirty somewhat.
On to better bench REST and shoot it more. I do like the rifle a lot though.

Probably kill elk and better than a 7mm-08.


I figured you were poking fun at Pharm. He's like a big booger. Too easy to pick on... :D. Yeah, the 6.5 cm is a puzzy cat to shoot. I really like mine for shooting steel at 400+yards away. Less recoil and better bc's, really make it fun to shoot at longer range.
 
I was just "poking"pharm 7mm-08
My longest elk was about 127yrds. 35 Whelen 250 gr 42"x42" split the heart in half top aortas remained attached.
Old guy of Elmer keith's Age swore by SD, bore dia to length he made a 35 Whelen(my first one) and stated his preference for 275 gr bullets in it. That would be a long bullet.
My 6.5 cm ammo S&B was SP looks like a nice expanding bullet.
The 6.5 CM shoots so soft like a 6.8spc ll, great starter rifle cal. I would think.

Is that a 35 whelen with a custom barrel? I woulda thunk factory twist rates would be too slow for anything much over 250grs, especially if it weren't shaped like a bus.
 
It was a Douglas 1 in 15" pert sure....
Bullet make Woodleigh as I try to remember 25" hunted it too heavy
Went with a 20oz Lone Wolf stock carbon fiber bedding block Rem700 ADL Shilen
lwt taper 23" Shilen did the action truing she very nice with Horn 250SP Leupold 3x9 compact....met my elk hunting needs.
 
Hell, I bought a CTR from a mod here that wasn't up to my accuracy standards, until after glass bedding ;)..... I'm glad you asked the question though, because It's important that I added this target to the thread, as it shows how the rifle shoots now with a good handload and other refinements.. Also, welcome to northwest firearms!!!

Thanks. I'm at a tossup between the superlight and a ctr. I've handled both in the store, tho the ctr was only a 20" and I want a 24". The weight seemed pretty similar. In you opnion does throat erosion happen easier on a lighter barrel than heavy? Over a year ago I went to try shooting 1100 yards with the HMR. 500 was simple, 900 took me a few tries then the 1104 kicked my butt. Barrel was already warm when I started but being my own spotter and now have learned the importance of keeping the reticle plumb while long range after a tall target test. Long story short, I shot 80 rounds in about an hour and took me 19 one after the other to hit the 18" target at 1104. Fast forward and I had my firing pin bushed then went to chrono and see if I had crater primers still. 10 shots in a ragged hole after having the barrel very hot. I've adopted a new clean regime from sniper 101 series after his theory on 60 shots for copper equiblurum then good for 400-600 rounds as your monitor for pressure signs or fouling. Sorry, kind of a long pointless post. I have no problem bedding a gun as I just did a remington 700 and have alot of marine tex left. Do you prefer the CTR or the superlight? 20200112_143826.jpg Threaded barrel is a big plus since browsing online it seems to run about $130 to have one threaded.
 
Thanks. I'm at a tossup between the superlight and a ctr. I've handled both in the store, tho the ctr was only a 20" and I want a 24". The weight seemed pretty similar. In you opnion does throat erosion happen easier on a lighter barrel than heavy? Over a year ago I went to try shooting 1100 yards with the HMR. 500 was simple, 900 took me a few tries then the 1104 kicked my butt. Barrel was already warm when I started but being my own spotter and now have learned the importance of keeping the reticle plumb while long range after a tall target test. Long story short, I shot 80 rounds in about an hour and took me 19 one after the other to hit the 18" target at 1104. Fast forward and I had my firing pin bushed then went to chrono and see if I had crater primers still. 10 shots in a ragged hole after having the barrel very hot. I've adopted a new clean regime from sniper 101 series after his theory on 60 shots for copper equiblurum then good for 400-600 rounds as your monitor for pressure signs or fouling. Sorry, kind of a long pointless post. I have no problem bedding a gun as I just did a remington 700 and have alot of marine tex left. Do you prefer the CTR or the superlight?View attachment 649288 Threaded barrel is a big plus since browsing online it seems to run about $130 to have one threaded.
For long sessions of longrange shooting, i much prefer my ctr's. For an extremely lightweight hunting rifle, i prefer the superlite
 
Took mine out to 100yrds today,had 9 total fired then went to 100 with solid rest front and back. First shot was 1 1/4" high 5/8 "right. Adj. scope. Also shoot one clean one AND dry chamber.
Shoot number 2 clean; dry. Shoot three; clean, dry. Shoot four done wind is picking up and rain headed in. Ran a wet patch(Lucas CLP) put up rifle and rests, go down to check target
only to see three holes????
First shot high and right... OHH three in less than 1/2"; two in same hole.
I love this rifle barrel cleans up easy, highly polished bore and shoots a 140 SP S&B to the bullseye.
 

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