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One of the guns I took to the range today gave me problems. Smith & Wesson Model 10. After a firing a few cylinder's worth, it didn't want to close up. At first, I thought there was an issue with the ammunition. That wasn't the case, because empty, the cylinder didn't want to close. One thing my dad burned into me as a child was, "Don't force it." I couldn't shoot it anymore today. But I never go the range with only one firearm. I usually have several. Just in case of failure, certain parts of the range that might be crowded.

Once I got around to cleaning guns back at home, I took the cylinder out, cleaned the gun, and found the problem. One single flake of semi-burned powder had gotten under the extractor. Which was just enough to cause the cylinder to bind when trying to close it. I removed the flake of powder and everything was back to normal. But this is an example of the precision that goes into the making of a quality revolver. They are typically more sensitive than semi-auto designs.

Decades ago I had a similar problem with a stainless Ruger Security Six .357. My loads used IMR 4227 powder. I was shooting in the rain. Something I never do these days. Suddenly, the cylinder wouldn't close on the gun. That time it was a semi-burned grain of powder stuck between the frame and the crane. It got washed into the crack by the rain.
 
The only other cause of such a problem is the extractor rod coming unscrewed. I have a Taurus 85 Stainless that will also lock up with unburned powder under the extractor. Kind of a revolver issue.
 
Had this happen with the only X frame i ever owned. I believe the sonic cleaning caused the ejector rod assembly to loosen up. After retightening, all good.
Definitely made question the labor savings of sonic cleaning, since you might have to check every screw and pin in the gun afterwards.
 
One of the guns I took to the range today gave me problems. Smith & Wesson Model 10. After a firing a few cylinder's worth, it didn't want to close up. At first, I thought there was an issue with the ammunition. That wasn't the case, because empty, the cylinder didn't want to close. One thing my dad burned into me as a child was, "Don't force it." I couldn't shoot it anymore today. But I never go the range with only one firearm. I usually have several. Just in case of failure, certain parts of the range that might be crowded.

Once I got around to cleaning guns back at home, I took the cylinder out, cleaned the gun, and found the problem. One single flake of semi-burned powder had gotten under the extractor. Which was just enough to cause the cylinder to bind when trying to close it. I removed the flake of powder and everything was back to normal. But this is an example of the precision that goes into the making of a quality revolver. They are typically more sensitive than semi-auto designs.

Decades ago I had a similar problem with a stainless Ruger Security Six .357. My loads used IMR 4227 powder. I was shooting in the rain. Something I never do these days. Suddenly, the cylinder wouldn't close on the gun. That time it was a semi-burned grain of powder stuck between the frame and the crane. It got washed into the crack by the rain.
Getting in the habit of ejecting the cases with the muzzle up will reduce that propensity.
Oh and edit to add, the drier it is under the star proper, the better.
 
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I agree with the concept but at the range and once at a firing point, the RSO's tend to frown on anything pointed up.
Seriously? Even with an open cylinder, hand off the grip and actively ejecting empty cases? I've never seen an RSO get on somebody's case about that.

If one were to get on me about it, I wouldn't take that bubblegum and I'd get kicked out or voluntarily leave.
 
Seriously? Even with an open cylinder, hand off the grip and actively ejecting empty cases? I've never seen an RSO get on somebody's case about that.

If one were to get on me about it, I wouldn't take that bubblegum and I'd get kicked out or voluntarily leave.
Exactly. A safe gun is one with the cylinder open and two fingers through the frame.
 
Exactly. A safe gun is one with the cylinder open and two fingers through the frame.
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Actually a can of computer keyboard duster is really handy.
I'm guilty of what Certaindeaf mentioned above, that is, not keeping the area under the extractor dry. However, this is only the first time in half a dozen decades that I've had a cylinder tighten up for the reason stated. Not counting the crane episode with the Security Six.
 
As well, some powders burn more cleanly than others. Given the choice, ball powders burn very cleanly. This problem has been known for ages and Hercules/Alliant reformulated Unique some years back to address clean burning.
 
As well, some powders burn more cleanly than others. Given the choice, ball powders burn very cleanly. This problem has been known for ages and Hercules/Alliant reformulated Unique some years back to address clean burning.
These loads were powered by Accurate No. 5. Which is a ball powder, but the grains are flattened.

That was the last of my Acc. No. 5. I had just enough left for about 60 rounds. I bought an 8 pound jug of it in the 1990's, I don't know what I was thinking. I've used it mostly in 9mm over the years. Which it works well enough in. But I don't really like it all that much in .38 Special, in particular lead bullet loads, it's a bit too slow and leaves some unburned powder behind. No. 2 is better for .38 Special.

When I bought the jug of No. 5, it was then called Accurate Arms, made in Israel. Since then, Ramshot bought AA, in turn Ramshot got bought by Hodgdon. When I bought this powder, the dealer was having a sale. Your choice, an 8 pounder of powder or a 5000 count case of WW primers, $60. I bought one of each. Around the same time, $12.50 was kind of a benchmark price for a brick of primers. Kesselring's in Burlington, Wash. held the line on IMR powders for many years at $10 the pound.

I'm used to creeping incrementalism on components pricing, but what we've seen in the past couple of years is beyond all reason.
 
These loads were powered by Accurate No. 5. Which is a ball powder, but the grains are flattened.

That was the last of my Acc. No. 5. I had just enough left for about 60 rounds. I bought an 8 pound jug of it in the 1990's, I don't know what I was thinking. I've used it mostly in 9mm over the years. Which it works well enough in. But I don't really like it all that much in .38 Special, in particular lead bullet loads, it's a bit too slow and leaves some unburned powder behind. No. 2 is better for .38 Special.

When I bought the jug of No. 5, it was then called Accurate Arms, made in Israel. Since then, Ramshot bought AA, in turn Ramshot got bought by Hodgdon. When I bought this powder, the dealer was having a sale. Your choice, an 8 pounder of powder or a 5000 count case of WW primers, $60. I bought one of each. Around the same time, $12.50 was kind of a benchmark price for a brick of primers. Kesselring's in Burlington, Wash. held the line on IMR powders for many years at $10 the pound.

I'm used to creeping incrementalism on components pricing, but what we've seen in the past couple of years is beyond all reason.
Last time up there, I bought H335 at $3.30/lb. Tells ya how long I've been out of the loop. That was before the...uhhhh....legal issues...
 

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