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After all these years, 10 anyway, that "Burning" question, has been answered. I always thought that mag primers were recommended for certain powders because those powders were harder to ignite, or needed a hotter flame to ignite, and burn properly. I'm thinking 2400, or H110 just off the top of my head. Those two seem to always be used with magnum primers. In my head, when I was reading those recommendations I always took them to mean the powder was hard(er) to ignite, but this demonstration tells us the mag primer is used to avoid having punctured primers when loading to maximum pressures.

 
So who is going to tell the next guy who says you can't use rifle in a pistol to shove it up their glory hole?
 
So who is going to tell the next guy who says you can't use rifle in a pistol to shove it up their glory hole?

You want to, dont'cha? You know you do. :D Here's the thing though, if the person you're trying to correct doesn't respect you as knowing what you're talking about, they'll just tell you your risking blowing yourself up!
 
You want to, dont'cha? You know you do. :D Here's the thing though, if the person you're trying to correct doesn't respect you as knowing what you're talking about, they'll just tell you your risking blowing yourself up!
Haha. Nah, I actually requested this to be a sticky so we can just simply point to the thread with ease. Let the individual make up their own well informed mind.
 
As I mull this around in my mind, there's another question. We are talking pressure produce by the primer. We don't know if the heat of the flame from the primers are the same? One formula of priming compound may be hotter than another formula, yet produce the same pressure. It's not pressure that ignites powder, it's heat.
 
So basically the difference between the three is cup metal thickness? There really isn't much room for more primer compound in those small primers, if they can make them hotter l don't see how it can be more than say 20%

But what about large primers, aren't large rifle primers longer than their pistol counter parts?
 
So basically the difference between the three is cup metal thickness? There really isn't much room for more primer compound in those small primers, if they can make them hotter l don't see how it can be more than say 20%

But what about large primers, aren't large rifle primers longer than their pistol counter parts?
Send the guy on Youtube a message and ask him to do large primers next! :D
 
I'll just stick to what the re-loading manual says.

YES....there are "tales" of folks replacing brands and types, etc..... So then.....remember that you're doing so at your own risk. YES.....I've done some "experimenting". BUT, the basic re-loading rules still apply.

For more reading material on this subject.......


Aloha, Mark
 
As I mull this around in my mind, there's another question. We are talking pressure produce by the primer. We don't know if the heat of the flame from the primers are the same? One formula of priming compound may be hotter than another formula, yet produce the same pressure. It's not pressure that ignites powder, it's heat.
I was shooting a match at 600 yards with a M1 in 30/06. Half way through the string I had to switch ammo. Almost identical
loads. Bullet, powder charge and LC brass only difference was CCI and Winchester primers both standard non-magnum.
I was shooting the load with CCI primers and had to switch to the Winchester load. The Winchester load was about 4 minutes
high or 24 inches at 600 yards.:eek: Obviously the Winchester is a hotter primer?
 
Thanks for posting.

I buy small rifle and standard large pistol as my main primers. SRP fire 38 special and 357 magnum with very little difference from standard spp / spm.

I also reduce the variable in my powder selection. I use Hodgdon's CFE Pistol powder exclusively in all my small pistol loads up to 357 magnum and lpp 45 acp loads. I am able to get very consistent results without worrying about mixing up different powders to test.

IMO Within +5% - 10% pressure at the lower end of the load data range is relatively safe. I would not advise loading above midpoint of your recipe with a non standard primer. Test midpoint or higher load with +p brass.
 

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