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Hey all! I know this light seem dumb to ask, but I figure this would be the place to go if anywhere. Recently I purchased a Ruger m77 and fell in love with its beauty but it appears I overlooked some things before the transfer. When I went to put on a bipod I realized the slog swivel connector that goes into the stock was loose and the wood was stripped so attaching a bipod was pointless. I figured I should ask before I put epoxy in but is epoxying the pin into the hole my best option? What would you guys recommend or what brand wouod you guys use? Thank you all for any help I can get. I’ll attach a photo be

6EF41F6B-1F48-4E51-9B04-569468C17502.jpeg CEA5EDA7-984A-4234-8A8F-8F10066E8119.jpeg
 
What's the barrel channel of the stock look like? Is there room to get a nut to capture a machine screw?

If so, ditch the wood screw you have and go with a captured stud.

If not, I'd use a forstner bit to drill a pocket from the inside just deep enough for a nut to capture an 8-32 threaded swivel stud.
 
You could drill and tap a new hole about 1" down. Then fill the old hole with wood filler and refinish the stock.
To expand on this, filling the existing hole with a hardwood dowel (or synthetic such as G10 if you're feeling froggy!) glued in and redrilling would be an option.
 
What's the barrel channel of the stock look like? Is there room to get a nut to capture a machine screw?

If so, ditch the wood screw you have and go with a captured stud.

If not, I'd use a forstner bit to drill a pocket from the inside just deep enough for a nut to capture an 8-32 threaded swivel stud
I’m not terribly knowledgeable about this. Not sure how deep my barrel channel is but What is a captured stud?
 
So you’d recommend just putting the job weld in the hole, drilling a smaller hole, then screwing the sling swivel into the hole? Should I mix any hardwood dowel with it?
I don't know what your skill set is with this kind of stuff, so I'm not sure what I would recommend, but if it was me and my rifle I would find a dowel like this one and use JB Weld, or Acraglas or Devcon or the like to epoxy it in.

 
I don't know what your skill set is with this kind of stuff, so I'm not sure what I would recommend, but if it was me and my rifle I would find a dowel like this one and use JB Weld, or Acraglas or Devcon or the like to epoxy it in.

That’s what I’ll try and do. Thank you all for your help! I’ll post pictures of the finished result when it’s all done. (Or ask for more help if I manage to screw it up 😅).
 
They make a very thin T nut for that. its the same nut that holds the trigger screw for a Marlin 60.
You would just have to drill a flat bottom hole to set it deep enough not to touch the barrel. And then replace the swivel stud with a machine screw type. You can also get T nuts at an Ace or True Value hardware.


Looks like home depot has them too. DR
 
Last Edited:
I thank you all for your help! I used a dowel and JB weld and it seems to be holding up to my testing thus far. And as promised here is the final result!

5822A355-FED9-452B-A160-21C7BA126C7A.jpeg AEB13F33-D59F-4AB0-8FC2-1F2715044AEC.jpeg
 
Or this:
:s0112:
And if you are a real cheap skate, a T-nut on the inside, cut off the spikes and curve it to match the barrel channel:
T_Nut S.jpg
And if you do decide to use a nut on the inside, like in the mentioned swivel set, use something on the drill used to cut the inside counterbore that will keep it from getting sucked completely thru the stock. :eek: :s0054:
jmo,
.
:s0092:
.
 
Last Edited:
Or this:
:s0112:
And if you are a real cheap skate, a T-nut on the inside, cut off the spikes and curve it to match the barrel channel:
View attachment 1267145
And if you do decide to use a nut on the inside, like in the mentioned swivel set, use something on the drill used to cut the inside counterbore that will keep it from getting sucked completely thru the stock. :eek: :s0054:
jmo,
.
:s0092:
.
Wish I had seen this beforehand, if it ever becomes a problem again this is what I’ll do. Thank you lots!
 

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