Single shot shotguns anybody else like 'em?

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I got a good deal on the 20 gauge Chiappa 8" riffled inserts, for 38sp/357, 45colt, 9mm, and 45acp. I been using my Stevens 301 20ga with these, shot a bunch of 357 and 45 colt out of it. Surprisingly accurate and fun to shoot with these inserts.

I am looking forward to whenever Midland Arms starts putting out their centerfire barrels. Then I'll buy one of their 12 ga 18" backpack single shots and pick up a centerfire barrel, hopefully in something like 243 or 30-30.
 
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DeanMk

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Shap,

If the receiver of the Midland is constructed anything like the old H&R's were, you might be wise to pick up a Midland single shot rifle, then get a shotgun barrel for it.
The shotgun receiver may not be able to handle the pressure the rifle barrel would put on it.
H&R went so far as to NOT sell anyone a rifle barrel for one of their shotguns. You HAD to buy a Handi-Rifle then you could get a shotty barrel for it.
The stresses reason I just gave you is what they told me.

….might wanna write'em and ask.



Dean
 
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Midland hasn't come out with the riffle barrels yet. The info out there on the interwebs is that they will be coming out with riffle barrels soon that will fit on their current shotgun barrel receivers. Maybe the pressure issue testing of the riffle barrels on their current shotgun receivers is why they riffle barrels are not out yet
 

DeanMk

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If the Midland shotgun is very light, like 4-5 lbs or less, I think your best bet would be to get the rifle (once they are for sale) and get a shotgun barrel for that gun.
The weight will be your clue.
If the rifle is 6-8 lbs., you'll definitely need to do that....the extra weight comes from a much more solid receiver.
Keep an eye out and see how things progress, if you can.


Dean
 
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Dean, from the media they have put out Midland is developing riffle barrels that are compatible with their current shotgun receivers. I believe their model is for all of their guns (receivers and barrels) to be interchangeable with one another. Not a separate receiver for riffles that can accept a shotgun barrel and a different receiver for shotgun. Their shotgun receivers are currently milled from steel forgings: Tough, Versatile, and Budget-Friendly, Midland's Backpack Shotgun Might be Your Best Hiking Companion
 

DeanMk

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According to the chart I have saved on my computer, you're right.
Modified choke for a 28 ga. is a .012" restriction, yielding a muzzle bore size of .538".
I wonder if you could use .54 Minie balls?

...another thought: Brenneke makes a 28 ga. slug round. I wonder if they'd sell some of their slugs?
 
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DeanMk

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I suppose you could cut the pedals off the wad. That should allow the use of the .54 slug, or you could go with a smaller caliber, but what one? .50? .45?
As for the correct wad, you're right about that.
I wonder if you couldn't take some small scraps of paper and crumple it into a "dome-ish" shape that would fit inside the hollow base of the minie ball, then soak it with an inexpensive glue-like substance that would both stick it to the wad and yield a firm shape for the minie ball to fit into (of course, wait for the glue to harden before final fitting of the minie ball).
If successful, this would allow you to modify any wad into the type typically used for shotgun slugs.
 

DeanMk

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Wait a minute....I'm confused....you mention "pedals" through all your posts. This brings to mind a one piece wad.
Now you mention fiber/card wads, which are something different.
Which is it?
My comments on a building a paper stabilizing nub glued to the wad to locate the minie ball is based on how one piece slug wads are made, where they have a protrusion that fits into part of the hollow at the base of the Foster slug.
It helps located the slug when going down the barrel and also helps stabilize it in flight, as during part of its flight outside of the barrel, it acts like the tail of a kite....that is, until the wad and slug separate.
If you did this mod to a regular ol' one piece wad (and cut off the pedals), you should be able to use a .54 minie ball with success in your 28..
...OR...
...leave the pedals on and use a minie ball bullet of a smaller caliber (seems like it would make attaching the stabilizing nub a bit harder, though).
Of course, maybe the pedals themselves would act like the stabilizing nub, at least while the slug is traveling down the barrel.
The "inexpensive glue-like substance" I was thinking of was a compote we used in elementary school.
It was comprised of water, flour and.....something else that I can no longer remember.
End result was the stuff we used to make paper mache objects with during the times we were being taught about art.
My thinking was that it was all household items, so you probably all the ingredients already sitting around, thus "inexpensive".
Water Glass is new to me. Never heard the term before.
Is that something you buy in a store? It says "Water Glass" on the label?
 

DeanMk

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Plastic wads are usually one piece. Most wads used for shot loads incorporate petals (as in the petals of a flower) or fingers that encase the actual load. This is the shot cup.

There are other kinds of wad materials. Such as paper, felt and cork. You can really customize shot loads with paper and cork wad materials because you can vary the height of the load using multiples of wads. BPI sells all kinds of these non-plastic materials. Which was all that was used before plastic wads came out in the 1960's. Back when I was loading full brass hulls, a guy told me that in the olden days, old hornet's nests were sometimes used for wad materials. I've also heard that dried leaves have been used. I wonder about getting proper compression with those materials.
...still doesn't answer my question.



A true Foster slug has a hollow base with no attached wad. The Brenneke design typically has a wad that remains attached for a time after firing. As I understand it, you don't want to attach anything to the hollow slug. The reason it's hollow is to place the mass in the front which has a stabilizing effect. So the Foster slug just has a wad that pushes against the edge of the base, the hollow has no support. I can't say for the stabilization, but if you used a Minie ball, you wouldn't need a wad that attached. You'd use a card wad to push it out if you were going to match barrel size as closely as possible. Or you'd use a slightly undersized Minie placed in a plastic wad with a shot cup (the petals).
Yes, I know. I just explained that. You missed my point. I wasn't referring to a Brenneke-type slug, I was simply explaining why a plastic slug wad is constructed differently than a regular one-piece shot wad.
I explained this because I've read many reports about accuracy issues when shooting hollow base slugs using a regular shot wad...thus my idea for building the nub on a regular shot wad, sans pedals, to help accurize the minie ball.



They used to sell water glass (sodium silicate) at drug stores. I think you can get it on ebay or Amazon. Look up on Google, "how to make sodium silicate" maybe you can roll your own. The last jar I had did say water glass on the label.
Thank you for explaining "Water Glass" to me. I did look it up.

The Traditions Performance Firearms slugs that I've tried are made for muzzle loaders. They are .50 and come in a plastic carrier like a sabot or wad. They have a solid base and no problems with accuracy in my 28 ga. They are kinda expensive, $12 for 20 pieces. I don't worry too much about using projectiles that are discharged in a carrier and are undersize to the bore. We're not talking about long range shooting here. My goal is to turn a light bird gun into something that may be used if necessary for defense. Out to 50 yards.

Remember, sabot projectiles are used in high velocity ammo in army tank guns. Which are actually large rifles for precision shooting. You can also buy some .30 centerfire ammo that shoots a .224 encased in a sabot.
I agree. 50 yards would be about the limit I would think one could accurately place a Foster...and that's pushing it.
The .30 rounds that shoot the saboted .224 bullets were produced by Remington and called "Accelerator".
I remember when they came out. They were available in .30-06 and .30-30. I believe .308 was also available early on.
These days, you can buy a bag of 100 Accelerator sabots for $15, online.
Unfortunately, I found your last post laborious to read and kind of a waste of space, as you seemed to miss most of my points and simply regurgitated what you were quoting in your own words.
At this point, I think I will bid you adieu and wish you well on your future endeavors.
You seem to have things well in hand.
Good luck.


Dean
 
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I got one of them single shots....per barrel
Cheap CZ Drake over/under. put a limbsaver grind to fit on it cause the factory recoil pad was a bad joke and nobody makes a pre-fit pad for a CZ shotgun. (rebranded huglu)

Still a break action and 1 shot per barrel though :p
 
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On another note,
I am Looking to buy a single shot riffled slug gun with iron sights.
Something like an H&R or NEF tracker or whitetail edition. 12 or 20 gauge.
Would also consider a Thomson Center if it also has iron sights and isn't a fortune.
I'm in the greater Portland Metro area, but also get down to Eugene Springfield area frequently as well.
Thanks for any help on this,
Shap
 
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Andy54Hawken

Andy54Hawken

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No real worries...just pointing it out...:)
I do hope you get to add to your impressive collection of model 37's....
I need to get a picture of mine up on here...its in 20 gauge and a bit of honest finish wear....but it locks up tight and shoots very nicely.
Andy
 

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