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I have a slightly older silencer that I bought for a specific build. That guild did not happen so now I am trying to it for general purpose.

It is a .22 can with a steel tube and aluminum mono core baffle that unscrews from the front.

I tried to use it with my dedicated .22 AR CMMG upper (.22lr barrel) and I got baffle strikes. I tried it with another can and 2 different types of ammo with the same results. Bullet impacts were very random. Looking down the barrel from the chamber you could just barely see one side of the silencer. I sent that upper back and they did find an issue and sent me a new upper.

We are visiting family this week and I brought the new upper to try out. I sighted the rifle in and making ~1.5" groups at 50 yards with bulk plinking ammo. I put the can on the gun and my POI shifted just over 1' left and my group opened up to about 8". I removed the baffle stack, but left the tube (heavy part) on the gun. POI and grouping returned.

Now I am suspecting baffle strikes again. Looking down the barrel you could see the baffles and appeared to be even all around. We took the baffle stack out and opened the bore to .28" on a lathe. Now you can not see any of the baffles looking down the barrel. Test fired it again at a pop can at ~20' and still shooting ~1' left, no idea about grouping. There are no obvious spots where the bullet is touching the baffles.

Well now I am baffled. Since I am not home I do not have another can with me to test, no other ammo and no other rifle to test the can on. I am going to try and make time this weekend to do those test, but I another project that is more of a priority.

Any thoughts of why this might be happening or other things to check? I have several cans and thousands of rounds down range with them, this is my first issue..
 
Direct thread can that indexes off the shoulder? Make sure it's tightening against the shoulder. I would suspect the muzzle threads/shoulder not being true to the bore. An alignment rod would help tell if it's the can or muzzle threads.
 
I would try shooting at paper to see if you are getting any keyholing.

1ft POI shift at 20ft sounds extreme, so I would still guess you are getting strikes somehow. Do you have access to an alignment rod?

By any chance, is the suppressor touching anything when mounted? Handguard or otherwise? Unlikely since it sounds like the problem persists with the tube only, but figured I'd ask.

Inspect the shoulder of the threads on the barrel, and the face around the internal threads of the suppressor (the two surfaces that mate when attaching the suppressor). Make sure they are in good shape with no nicks or dents.
 
I don't know why your POI shifted, however, I have to ask why you looked down the barrel to see if the suppressor was aligned only AFTER a baffle strike occurred? Visually checking alignment on an unvetted barrel/mount should be step 1, wayyy before firing and definitely before risking a baffle strike on more than one suppressor...
 
I consider the very first baffle strike as cause to immediately take the suppressor innerds out and fix where needed. That first strike can upset multiple baffles and the slightest jagged edge etc is going to make a compounding problem (not to mention out of round holes etc that can upset the bullet in flight). If you have had multiple baffle strikes then you've had multiple chances for compounding damage and of course multiple places for improper gas flow to mess with the bullet in flight.

If the core issue is misaligned threads you've got a tough road ahead. You may be able to enlarge the holes large enough to avoid baffle strikes but you are not going to get the accuracy you would want I would guess (but you never know until you try it).
 
Lots of info missing.

Is this a form 1 can? Who makes it. Pictures? Warranty? I'm guessing from 1 as you stated you opened up the note of the monocore. If it was a cheap kit, there could be all sorts of spec issues.

I've only had 1 end cap strike due to a cheap 3 lug mount. Ditched the mount and the problem went away.

Your problem on the other hand, I'm at a loss. I haven't a clue. Pictures might help us help you.

Also, there are many things lying around the house that are straight enough to act as a barrel guide. Even a cleaning rod can help you get an idea of something isn't aligned right. I've used a sacrificial screw driver of the correct diameter and length as a home made alignment rod for 22cal stuff.
 
This is a Form 4 can from a mid-tier maker that I purchased in 2010. They have been around for 30 years but are not a "popular" name. It is a mono-core that is easy to remove for cleaning.

I use the word baffle strike as a general term. Maybe baffle contact would be a better word. You can just barely see on the internal baffles where the bullet is barely making contact with a couple of baffles.

When I get home I will do some more testing. As far as warranty, I have not asked since I do not know if it is a can issue or not. Now that I have messed with it, I am sure it will not be under warranty, but I would happily pay for a new core since the tube is the registered part.
 
This is a Form 4 can from a mid-tier maker that I purchased in 2010. They have been around for 30 years but are not a "popular" name. It is a mono-core that is easy to remove for cleaning.

I use the word baffle strike as a general term. Maybe baffle contact would be a better word. You can just barely see on the internal baffles where the bullet is barely making contact with a couple of baffles.

When I get home I will do some more testing. As far as warranty, I have not asked since I do not know if it is a can issue or not. Now that I have messed with it, I am sure it will not be under warranty, but I would happily pay for a new core since the tube is the registered part.
@wired gets up and running he might be able to recore it.
 
If you are getting such different results on different rifles I would look at the differences between the rifles. First thought is does your rifle have a relief cut behind the threads or do the threads run all the way to the shoulder?
 
This may sound like a stupid question, but . . . are you sure the internals are in correctly, as in not inserted backwards? In some cans this is possible.
Reversal of the baffle can most definately effect the gas flow and thus the departure impetus on the bullet. That could affect your POI. The reversed baffle could also explain a misallignment issue.
 
You would be amazed (actually, you probably wouldn't) at the number of "competent" shooters, who 'screw up the works' when it comes to the mechanical side of firearms. I've seen guys use up and entire box of ammo just trying to get a rifle on paper at 100yds. with a scope; because they would adjust the scope between each shot, and end up chasing their rounds across the countryside.

My usual response to such nonsense is simply . . . WOW!!
 

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