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So after a brief discussion that turned into an interesting argument with a buddy of mine, I figured I'd share this here.

My friend wanted to spend a large amount of money on an expensive laser sighting tool. Site Lite. Something like $200 dollars for the thing.

I told him not to buy it and that he could sight in his rifle at any distance with a little math and either a ruler or a set of calipers.

He did what I said, then proceeded to get even more angry when I was right.

So the simple no ammo used version of how to sight in any optic goes like this.

First off, there is one disclaimer. Your gear must be of good quality. IE if you buy a cheap base that is machined poorly and is not correctly to spec, this isn't going to work. Same for cheap scopes, AR15 uppers, barrels, ammo and the like.

Ok so let's talk numbers.

What do you know.

Minute of angle, well most everyone knows minute of angle. It's roughly an inch at one hundred yards. Yes, sort of. Really, MOA is an angle. In mathematical terms, it is 1/60 of a degree or 0.0167 degrees. A straight line drawn to 100 yards with a second straight line drawn at 0.0167 degrees will be 1.047" above the other.

Ok. We know MOA. Now we need to know your gun, well mostly your ammo, but kind of your gun. You need to know your velocity. You can go off the ammo manufacturers tested velocity and not fire a round or five to get an average velocity for your choice ammo using a chrono. Otherwise, using the manufacturers velocity you know your bullets ballistics and can calculate its drop. However, to note, most centerfire cartridges at above 2500 feet per second tend to have little to no drop to 100 yards. So with that known, you can state the bullet leaving the barrel will travel in a straight line to 100 yards, again this can be altered by quality. However, most modern day barrel manufacturers are capable of making a barrel that can produce sub MOA results. If your manufacturer claims this, I'd say your safe.

Next you need to know your optics bore height. You can go super calculated and measure everything, the thickness of your barrel, the height of your rings, the thickness of your receiver, etc. The more accurate this measurement the better your results. To put this simply, we are going to say your scopes bore height is two inches. In other words, the center of your optic is two inches above the center of your bore. This is were quality comes in, some scopes are created differently then others, some may not even be capable of being centered. To center your optic, adjust both your elevation and windage in one direction count the number of clicks till you hit the absolute other side. Divide buy two. Adjust back till centered.

So now the math, well, with the above scenario things are extremely easy. Your scope is 2" above your bore line. If you were to fire a round, so long as the ammo and barrel aren't of horrible quality, your round should impact 2" below your point of aim if your ammo has ballistics with zero drop at 100 yards. With a scope that has adjustments in MOA, you would need to adjust up 2 minutes, or 8 clicks if your adjustments are 1/4 MOA.

Want to zero a red dot for your pistol at 7 yards. Same thing just use math. At 7 yards MOAwould equate to 0.073". Measure your bore height and divide the height by 0.073" and you'll get the number of minutes you need to adjust.

Thought I'd share!

Edit: See post 27
 
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Nice share. I use a $30 laser boresighter from BiMart and it gets me "on paper" every time.
 
I thought I was supposed to be done with math after knocking it out for my major...

Now you're suggesting I do MORE math? Maybe I need to talk to my fellow clowns about this...

Nah, good tip. I just do it the old fashion way cause I'm stubborn, but hey if someone's into trying new things, go for it!
 
I've zeroed a rifle in 4 shots.

The first one was about 4" from center.

I think I'm good enough to get stuff close on the first shot..

Look down bore, center on target and move optic to bore location.

Simpler. No maths involved.
 
Very true, but honestly I'm too lazy for all of that! :p

Me too. In 2000 when I was back in college again for more Machinist training the programmable calculators were getting affordable and small. We all had to get one. Instructor made all of us learn again to do Trig on paper. PITA. After we could do it again he gave us the program for our calculators to do it. Nice since it used to take a much larger machine to do this such as a PC. Of course soon none could remember how to do it on paper any more. This sight in tool is like that to me. If I had some odd ball expensive caliber gun I would. For me, just too lazy too. I use a cheap laser to sight both handguns and rifles. Gets me on paper then ammo gets the zero. Tech has made me lazy :)
 
We used to zero in our M16A2's in the parking lot before qualification. One guy holds the target about 50 feet away with a pencil. First you would set the rifle sights to zero. Then you would aim the rifle at the target and hold still while you tell your helper up, down, left, etc. When he got exactly in your aim point you would say "mark". You would repeat several times. Then you go look at the target and see where the marks are. If they were off the bulls eye then you make the appropriate adjustments to the sights and try it again. No iphone or apps required.
 
I've zeroed a rifle in 4 shots.

The first one was about 4" from center.

I think I'm good enough to get stuff close on the first shot..

Look down bore, center on target and move optic to bore location.

Simpler. No maths involved.
I know. I used to do the same.

Honestly I think the mathematical way is made illusive by manufacturers to sell more gizmos and ammunition.

They don't want you knowing how to do this, they want you going through a box of rounds to sight it in.
 
So how do you go about optics that set to the left of the bore?

Same thing. MOA is still 0.0167 degrees left to right as it is diagonal or top to bottom. If the optic is 2 inches off bore to the left, at 100 yards your point of aim will be 2 inches to the left of point of impact. Adjust two MOA to the left.
 
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Assuming that the base you are using has no adjustment for windage? And assuming that tolerance specs are small enough not to manifest themselves at 100 yards?
Your method is certainly feasible, but it makes a lot of assumptions. Good on you for doing that way I suppose.
 
Assuming that the base you are using has no adjustment for windage? And assuming that tolerance specs are small enough not to manifest themselves at 100 yards?
Your method is certainly feasible, but it makes a lot of assumptions. Good on you for doing that way I suppose.
Yes, like I mentioned, there are plenty of variables that can change this outcome.

You could go to the trouble to measure your base to see if it is perfectly square to your bore, as well as parallel to the bore. If you want to eliminate those factors.

My point wasn't to say it is absolute. I was trying to save a friend $200 dollars on an unneeded laser bore sight.

This method will get you pretty darn close if not right on the money.
 

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