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I want one of these but, seriously have no need!:s0112: They just look to be tough!

Exactly my thoughts. Once in hand, it feels like it WANTS to chop, its sturdy and balanced good. My logical excuse was to process wood via batoning on long hikes. Less weight than a small axe, and for campfires/cooking. I snow camped last weekend with an Estwig medium axe, which is great, but once you are wet and cold, both balancing your wood and getting accurate hits becomes hard. I remember specifically thinking while chopping in the dark, that I wish I had a long sturdy knife instead of a good hatchet. The return policy, and that they were made near where I grew up was the deal maker. Great sheath too. Sometimes shelling out big money is good. I spent about $500 on a Tuatahi Race axe, and that thing is absolutely insane at cutting. All the Granforths Bruks and other popular names are cute in comparison. Alot of mass, a good edge, and a big blade make a huge difference when cutting. F=MA, increase either mass or acceleration, and you have more force. Its way easier to double your mass as opposed to doubling the acceleration that you can apply to your tool.

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Exactly my thoughts. Once in hand, it feels like it WANTS to chop, its sturdy and balanced good. My logical excuse was to process wood via batoning on long hikes. Less weight than a small axe, and for campfires/cooking. I snow camped last weekend with an Estwig medium axe, which is great, but once you are wet and cold, both balancing your wood and getting accurate hits becomes hard. I remember specifically thinking while chopping in the dark, that I wish I had a long sturdy knife instead of a good hatchet. The return policy, and that they were made near where I grew up was the deal maker. Great sheath too. Sometimes shelling out big money is good. I spent about $500 on a Tuatahi Race axe, and that thing is absolutely insane at cutting. All the Granforths Bruks and other popular names are cute in comparison. Alot of mass, a good edge, and a big blade make a huge difference when cutting. F=MA, increase either mass or acceleration, and you have more force. Its way easier to double your mass as opposed to doubling the acceleration that you can apply to your tool.

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But a heavy hatchet/axe is a pain to carry if you are on foot for any distance.

I have a British Belt Axe from Ragweed Forge that is just about right for hiking/hunting on foot, except that the CRKT Chogan has more mass and is better for splitting larger chunks of split firewood down into kindling. That said, I am unlikely to find rounds of firewood while on foot, and the BBA would be better for splitting the pelvic bones on deer or elk and other camp chores.

I don't hunt or hike any more though. But for walking around in my woods, the BBA is a better companion. For splitting firewood at home, the Fiskars super splitting axe is a good compromise and its blade shape is better than a traditional splitting maul - more like a chisel.
 
But a heavy hatchet/axe is a pain to carry if you are on foot for any distance.

I have a British Belt Axe from Ragweed Forge that is just about right for hiking/hunting on foot, except that the CRKT Chogan has more mass and is better for splitting larger chunks of split firewood down into kindling. That said, I am unlikely to find rounds of firewood while on foot, and the BBA would be better for splitting the pelvic bones on deer or elk and other camp chores.

I don't hunt or hike any more though. But for walking around in my woods, the BBA is a better companion. For splitting firewood at home, the Fiskars super splitting axe is a good compromise and its blade shape is better than a traditional splitting maul - more like a chisel.

Thats a good point, and yea, I only bring the really big axes if I have a vehicle. Again, F=MA is good to thing about. One thing you can't do with an axe, which is huge, is batoning. You could use a long, heavy (same weight as a hatchet) camp knife, and gently rest the blade (as opposed to relying on one full application of force from a hatchet) on the wood when splitting, and then batton the far end of the blade. Baton too small? Find/cut a bigger one to once again take advantage of F=MA. Pro here is you can rely on finding wood as opposed to lugging it into the woods in the form of an axe handle/longer handle. I way prefer axes, but there are times when a big brute of a knife would serve better, especially when shivering, wet, and you cant see well. Less accuracy needed, and less likely to blow through and ding up your axe blade on whatever surface you are chopping on.
 
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my "EDC" knife. i lose 'em outta my pockets, and i'm not wearing one on a belt or such. so, it's a leg-warmer. can't get to it fast, but eh, got other things before that point i can use.
 
@AK0perator47 There is most certainly not a limit to how many one can have. I currently have around 100 knives in my collection but have owned more than 500 in the last 15 years since getting bit by the knife bug. Primarily a Spyderco guy but have owned or currently own most major brands excluding the recent mid-tech Chinese manufacture boom. Nothing against the emerging, quality, Chinese market but prefer supporting the companies that my ideals line up with like Spyderco.
 
These were in storage for about 15 years up until a month ago when I started cleaning the attic.
From way back in my martial arts days. I attended the camps noted on the inscribed areas of the knives.
These are Gil Hibben kenpo knives & the kenpo claw. Gil autographed the sheaths of each. The dark colored handled knife is serial #57. The Brown handled one is serial #4. I apologize for the image looking a little blurry. Phone camera does not do the knives justice.

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