Shot my first reloads

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First off, thanks to all the members on this forum for tips, advice, and helping me getting started. It made all the difference.

I got to shoot my first reloads ever the other day. I did .223 and .45 ACP and all my guns are in one piece so that's a plus.

All the .223 fired except one which looked like it had a malformed primer, likely from me improperly swaging the primer pockets. I did a couple tests to see how much of the crimp I needed to remove and I imagine this was one of the ones I only lightly swaged.

All the .45 fired fine but I did have about 3 stovepipes out of the 50 rounds. I haven't had this issue with factory ammo through my 1911. I did err on the side of caution and used the lighter charges from the load data table so I assume it could be from that or could it be from improper crimp?
 

Trez

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Glad to hear your rolling your own now. Most likely the 45s just need a bit higher powder charge. Minimum load data is usually the lowest charge that would function in the test gun. I usually aim for working up to the middle ground unless accuracy demands a bit more. Never been a hot rodder. Of course for me, my eye sight and ability to remain steady isn't as good as it used to be so I'm not working to attain 1 hole/clover leaf groups.
Enjoy!
 
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wollzy
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Glad to hear your rolling your own now. Most likely the 45s just need a bit higher powder charge. Minimum load data is usually the lowest charge that would function in the test gun. I usually aim for working up to the middle ground unless accuracy demands a bit more. Never been a hot rodder. Of course for me, my eye sight and ability to remain steady isn't as good as it used to be so I'm not working to attain 1 hole/clover leaf groups.
Enjoy!
Thanks again for helping me out!

Yea I'm gonna bump up the charge for the .45 a little for the next set of rounds and see how they do. I was pleased with consistency of the .223 compared to the cheap factory ammo I had been using for plinking though.
 

daved20319

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Some guns are just stiffer sprung than others. My CZ 97 BD will happily digest a light target load of 4 gr. of Bullseye behind a 200 gr. SWC, my Sig 220 has frequent issues with the same load, either stovepipes or failures to feed. I attribute the last to enough slide energy to eject, but not enough to pick up the next round. Just out of curiosity, what is your .45 ACP load? Some here might be able to make some helpful suggestions. Later.

Dave
 
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wollzy
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Some guns are just stiffer sprung than others. My CZ 97 BD will happily digest a light target load of 4 gr. of Bullseye behind a 200 gr. SWC, my Sig 220 has frequent issues with the same load, either stovepipes or failures to feed. I attribute the last to enough slide energy to eject, but not enough to pick up the next round. Just out of curiosity, what is your .45 ACP load? Some here might be able to make some helpful suggestions. Later.

Dave
Barrys Bullets 230 gr FMJ. With CFE Pistol at 5.4 gr. The smallest load data in my book was 5.2gr

Was shooting out of a Springfield RO compact 1911
 
used the lighter charges from the load data table so I assume it could be from that
my bet is THIS is the culprit issue;
my own novice 45 acp loads so long ago, gave a wild and maddening complex of 'failure' issues. And a matter of a few 10ths of grain may make all the difference in given pistols.

All my revolver loads were fine, but 'old Ugly' just wouldn't perform reliably. In addition to charge variations and other random minor anomalies in my begginer loads, it finally took close inspection by a reloading/machinist buddy to reveal there actual WAS a die flaw I had never suspect nor understood.

Mfg graciously replaced it and all went well thereafter....once I came to terms with the notion of proper slide velocity relating to the firing/rechambering dynamics. Good luck with your hobby.
 

Mikej

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Barrys Bullets 230 gr FMJ. With CFE Pistol at 5.4 gr. The smallest load data in my book was 5.2gr

Was shooting out of a Springfield RO compact 1911
Use more than one source. Hodgdon load data starts at 6.0 CFE/ 815 ft/s. 16,000 PSI.

Looking at CFE it's a pretty slow powder to use in that low pressure cartridge. And getting a 230 gr pill moving in the short barrel of a "compact" gun? Ima going to say you're getting unburnt powder too? Here's a site that gives powder burn rates.

Look where CFE is and where, a commonly used .45 acp acp powder, HP-38/Win231 is on the chart. In the case of a compact gun I believe their springs are generally fairly heavy so as not to beat the crap out of the lighter slide in a compact pistol. Anyone, please correct me if that's not the case?
 
Last edited:
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First off, thanks to all the members on this forum for tips, advice, and helping me getting started. It made all the difference.

I got to shoot my first reloads ever the other day. I did .223 and .45 ACP and all my guns are in one piece so that's a plus.

All the .223 fired except one which looked like it had a malformed primer, likely from me improperly swaging the primer pockets. I did a couple tests to see how much of the crimp I needed to remove and I imagine this was one of the ones I only lightly swaged.

All the .45 fired fine but I did have about 3 stovepipes out of the 50 rounds. I haven't had this issue with factory ammo through my 1911. I did err on the side of caution and used the lighter charges from the load data table so I assume it could be from that or could it be from improper crimp?
When I first started reloading more than 10 years ago I started with the minimum load data because “that’s what the manual and others say to do” but when you get more into it you realize that some things are written because lawyers like to reduce liability, and not because they actually need to be done. At this point I ignore the minimum entirely and look to somewhere between the midpoint and the max and work from there. More interesting is that different sources will list different volumes of powder for the same cartridge as min and max. If you read older manuals they tend to be higher, it’s as if lawyers got to them and said, “these are too hot, tone it down.”

You also have to understand that the depth you seat the bullet will have an effect on the pressure/velocity so keep that in mind when making any changes to the volume of powder.

Using CCI primers through thousands of rounds in .223, 9mm, 10mm and .308 I’ve never had a primer fail. Most of these primers have been 20-30 years old leftover from my grandpa. I have also loaded with new CCI primers for anything that I might carry/use defensively, but so far it hasn’t made a difference in it going bang.

Probably most likely is just a bad primer. Oddly enough, I’ve had bad primers in factory ammo, never in my own reloads and I’ve shot a lot more reloads than factory ammo, so whatever that means. Some guns are more sensitive to light primer strikes than others.

Maybe that primer wasn’t seated all the way and if there was enough give in the pocket, the firing pin may have just pushed it forward and that amount of give kept it from getting the force it needed to flex the cup and ignite the compound.
 

daved20319

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Use more than one source. Hodgdon load data starts at 6.0 CFE/ 815 ft/s. 16,000 PSI.

Looking at CFE it's a pretty slow powder to use in that low pressure cartridge. And getting a 230 gr pill moving in the short barrel of a "compact" gun? Ima going to say you're getting unburnt powder too? Here's a site that gives powder burn rates.

Look where CFE is and where, a commonly used .45 acp acp powder, HP-38/Win231 is on the chart. In the case of a compact gun I believe their springs are generally fairly heavy so as not to beat the crap out of the lighter slide in a compact pistol. Anyone, please correct me if that's not the case?
I think you're right on the money, Mike, on all counts. I've tried CFE Pistol in the .45, even with a full size with a 5" barrel, I wasn't impressed with the results. Erratic velocities as well as accuracy, and dirtier than I felt it should be. It did work well in my 5" barreled revolver, but the way revolvers and pistols are measured, that's equivalent to a 6.5" pistol.

My go to for the .45 has become the Missouri Bullet Co. 225 gr. coated lead truncated cone and Sport Pistol powder. Accurate, consistent, clean, and inexpensive, not counting brass I'm less than 15 cents a round. Not bad, considering I've seen .45 ACP going for over $1/rd. lately :eek:! Bonus, if runs slick in all my .45's. Later.

Dave
 
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wollzy
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I think you're right on the money, Mike, on all counts. I've tried CFE Pistol in the .45, even with a full size with a 5" barrel, I wasn't impressed with the results. Erratic velocities as well as accuracy, and dirtier than I felt it should be. It did work well in my 5" barreled revolver, but the way revolvers and pistols are measured, that's equivalent to a 6.5" pistol.

My go to for the .45 has become the Missouri Bullet Co. 225 gr. coated lead truncated cone and Sport Pistol powder. Accurate, consistent, clean, and inexpensive, not counting brass I'm less than 15 cents a round. Not bad, considering I've seen .45 ACP going for over $1/rd. lately :eek:! Bonus, if runs slick in all my .45's. Later.

Dave

I was getting some crap in my face when cycling and I imagine it could have been some unburnt powder. Glad I only picked up a pound of that CFE pistol. I was a little skeptical to begin with as people didn't seem super pleased with it, but it was what I could find.
 

Mikej

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I was getting some crap in my face when cycling and I imagine it could have been some unburnt powder. Glad I only picked up a pound of that CFE pistol. I was a little skeptical to begin with as people didn't seem super pleased with it, but it was what I could find.
I would venture a guess that the CFE pistol might burn better in a smaller, higher pressure, round. 9mm, .40 cal? Or, increase the amount some. I see it only has a .8gr spread in the Hodgeon data though.
 

arakboss

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First off, thanks to all the members on this forum for tips, advice, and helping me getting started. It made all the difference.

I got to shoot my first reloads ever the other day. I did .223 and .45 ACP and all my guns are in one piece so that's a plus.

All the .223 fired except one which looked like it had a malformed primer, likely from me improperly swaging the primer pockets. I did a couple tests to see how much of the crimp I needed to remove and I imagine this was one of the ones I only lightly swaged.

All the .45 fired fine but I did have about 3 stovepipes out of the 50 rounds. I haven't had this issue with factory ammo through my 1911. I did err on the side of caution and used the lighter charges from the load data table so I assume it could be from that or could it be from improper crimp?
Do you still have all your fingers, then I would call that a success.
 
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Agreed...fingers, toes, and even guns are all still in one piece
One of my first dumb moves as a novice reloader was misreading the beam scale and what was supposed to be 10.5 grains for 10mm turned into 15 grains of powder which was about 50% more than it should have had. 1st shot split the case in half, blew the magazine out of the well and left my hand with a bruise. No idea how fast it was going but it was cruising I’m sure. The rest of those rounds were of course not fired. Glad I came away from that with nothing more than a lesson. Get yourself a bullet puller. It will inevitably come in handy.
 

awshoot

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I agree -- more or faster powder. I do still start with initial loads in the manual just because I'm paranoid about this sort of thing -- a failure to feed or stovepipe is a non-event but starting too hot could have worse consequences.
 

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