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Reloads were new. Berdan primers, RE#7. Not had any problem since. Just can't figure why the powder didn't burn. Maybe some did burn, but not much.

Wish I could say that was my only mistake! LOL.
 
Don't have pictures….
A few no powders….. as I learn I crushed/peeled a primer cup forcing into what I now know is military primer crimp? My primer pocket cleaning scraper deal was a tight fit on a few but didn't know better. Damaged one primer and was lucky forcing a couple more in; before using a deburing tool on pocket and running pocket cleaner in cordless drill. Wasn't until talking with father-in-law there is a pocket reamer tool.
 
Wasn't until talking with father-in-law there is a pocket reamer tool.
I went the swager route. I kind of don't think I like removing brass from the primer pocket.

Deluxe: https://www.amazon.com/Dillon-Precision-Primer-Pocket-Military/dp/B00LAEVPZE

Budget: https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9481-Primer-Pocket-Combo-2/dp/B0063IDAX2

It's a personal choice though, I suppose. I went budget and just realized that if I were doing a LOT of brass it would be wise to go the deluxe route.
 
As much as I feel frustrated…. I'm glad I didn't fire 'em. While labeling the case with charges. I realized I loaded 50 rnds with the wrong powder. Most pulling I've had to do. My starting loads were 2.5 grain over max on intended powder…. My max was 5.5 grain over max. Guess that could've been dangerous.

image.jpg
 
As much as I feel frustrated…. I'm glad I didn't fire 'em. While labeling the case with charges. I realized I loaded 50 rnds with the wrong powder. Most pulling I've had to do. My starting loads were 2.5 grain over max on intended powder…. My max was 5.5 grain over max. Guess that could've been dangerous.

View attachment 1213924
I'm also glad you didn't fire them. That would have lead to an entirely different thread.
 
As much as I feel frustrated…. I'm glad I didn't fire 'em. While labeling the case with charges. I realized I loaded 50 rnds with the wrong powder. Most pulling I've had to do. My starting loads were 2.5 grain over max on intended powder…. My max was 5.5 grain over max. Guess that could've been dangerous.

View attachment 1213924
Open book on table with caliber being loaded. and if it's a repeated loading the powder name and numbers are right there too. ONE bottle of powder that's being loaded behind scale/powder dropper. Looks like you need to come up with some fail-safes when you load?

Makes me thankful all I did last goof was ignore the rule to make certain a new loading would chamber in the new to me rifle. BEFORE loading all 50.
 
When I was young many years ago, I blew the cylinder on a 686 in half and the top strap was gone as well. The parts launched to parts unknown.
 
Destroyed a couple hundred cases of 38 special.

Purchased a new Lee Factory Crimp die for 38/357 to put a better roll crimp on my rounds so they would chamber more reliably in my lever action rifle.

First time using a crimp die like this one.

Took new die apart, cleaned with mineral spirits, dried, reassembled and proceeded to crimp about 250 rounds.

In the process I noticed that most of the rounds were being compressed to the point of buckling in the center. Tried adjusting the die stem, adjusting the die placement the press, no joy.

Finally gave up. Had to pull most of the rounds to salvage the projectiles and primers.

I took the die apart and discovered that I had inserted the crimp sleeve upside down after I had cleaned the die.

Duhhhhh.

Installed it properly, ran some 38 through it, perfect crimp. Subsequently, the rounds ran through the rifle smooth as butter.
 
Open book on table with caliber being loaded. and if it's a repeated loading the powder name and numbers are right there too. ONE bottle of powder that's being loaded behind scale/powder dropper. Looks like you need to come up with some fail-safes when you load?

Makes me thankful all I did last goof was ignore the rule to make certain a new loading would chamber in the new to me rifle. BEFORE loading all 50.
Yes yes… thx
Poor procedure practices…. Rush mistakes. Was trying to have 100 ready by Sunday. Had multiple powders out after trying to decide and note what I wanted to do the night before. Am gonna change my ways.
 
Two cartridges, both Sellier & Bellot 9×18 Makarov.

The one on the right was reloaded in 2018 and heavily roll crimped and had a 10% overloaded charge. Pumped 30 down the tube. Inaccurate at a 11w×18l" target from 50 ft. Most on paper, but wild in landing.

On the left was 2020 when I learned a bit more, .001" crimp, hodgedon HP-38 powder. Hit same size target, all in a 3" group, 20 rds.

One thing I've learned is you have to be Jonas Salk. Test first on yourself, and guarantee accuracy, before offering to others.

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Why are you heavily roll crimping a round that headspaces on the rim? At least I think 9x18 mac headspaces on the rim?
 
Why are you heavily roll crimping a round that headspaces on the rim? At least I think 9x18 mac headspaces on the rim
It's semi-rimmed...so I don't understand the question..when the breech is closed its a non issue, except in FTE or FTC cases based on the powder/pressure charge and the buffer effect the recoil spring has.
 
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The 9x18 Makarov is rimless. The base is the same as 9x19. I make all my 9x18 brass from 9x19 cases, works great.

Nice job on the newer loading, looks good. I remember some of the first ammo I loaded. It wasn't dangerous, but it wasn't that great either. It's a learning process.
 
Rookie mistake. Used to doing the Tokarev stuff which with an 85gr. .0.307-0.312 tolerance, on a higher pressure cartridge. You better get that dialed in right, or you will be pouring the powder out and destroying another casing.
 
The 9x18 Makarov is rimless. The base is the same as 9x19. I make all my 9x18 brass from 9x19 cases, works great.

Nice job on the newer loading, looks good. I remember some of the first ammo I loaded. It wasn't dangerous, but it wasn't that great either. It's a learning process.
We're all human, and there's a learning curve. I appreciate it!
 
When reloading .223 frangible bullets (like Inceptor), flare the case mouth slightly before seating the bullet. The usual chamfer inside the case mouth might not be enough to prevent shaving of the bullet.
 
It's semi-rimmed...so I don't understand the question..when the breech is closed its a non issue, except in FTE or FTC cases based on the powder/pressure charge and the buffer effect the recoil spring has.
Roll crimping a round that head spaces on the rim of the case will allow the case to seat deeper in the barrel. Basically wedging the case mouth past where it should stop. That is, more than, likely to create higher pressure as the bullet has to overcome being wedged between the crimped case mouth past the ridge it was supposed to be stopped at.
 
Roll crimping a round that head spaces on the rim of the case will allow the case to seat deeper in the barrel. Basically wedging the case mouth past where it should stop. That is, more than, likely to create higher pressure as the bullet has to overcome being wedged between the crimped case mouth past the ridge it was supposed to be stopped at.
Yup think of like a door stop (wedge style) and just trying to muscle the door past it.. Cases that headspace on the rim like yours should be a slight taper crimp only, truly rimmed rounds that Headspace on the rim like .38 special/357mag can be roll crimped or taper crimped (roll crimp I think is more secure)
You definitely DONT want to taper crimp too much, @Mikej is correct, and who knows if your chamber is cut loose it might be easy to overlook that fine detail and get a slightly longer (than normal case) that will crimp heavier than normal and jump the chamber lip and get into the lands lead in.
Most pistol rounds I barely bell the case mouths at all, or not at all. Seat the bullet in there and no crimp for auto loaders the bullet usually swells the cases past the normal sizing dia. (And belling dia.)
Bottle neck cases headspace (rest) on the chamfer or taper. (Typically) not sure about slightly tapered cases like Sig357 or similar. I'd look up saami sped if there's any doubt.
 
Not sure if this is a mistake I made, but I found 6 primers ripped apart (the primer walls remained in the pocket and the head ripped off) while decapping some misc .223 brass. All were "CJ 93" headstamps, which I've been lead to believe is Norinco (29 years old I suppose).

I'm new to the forum and couldn't find a general reloading discussion page for this. Hoping to learn more, has anyone seen this before?

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