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Scope heights for long range, 500 to 1200 yards (question)

Discussion in 'Scopes & Optics' started by BLUE COLLAR IRONS, Oct 16, 2015.

  1. BLUE COLLAR IRONS

    BLUE COLLAR IRONS PDX-VANCOUVER Member

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    Im about to button up a build.. Its a remington 700 long range in 300 win mag. 26' heavy barrel, khantrol muzzle break, timney trigger, bipod yada yada yada.. I have a burris XTR2 4-15x50 scope w/34mm tube.. Its sitting on a 20moa rail.. My question is I have two sets of scope rings.. I have some millets that are "high" and some leupolds that are "medium" height.. The millet is 7/16 from top of rail to bottom of tube.. Leupolds are 3/8.. Big difference.. Now if I use the higher millets my scope is gonna be hella high.. Ill have to stuff my cheek rest.. I still have to stuff my cheek rest with the leupolds too but not nearly as much.. What are your thoughts??? I heard the closer u can get it to the bore the better.. Is this true for long range as well..
     
    mjbskwim likes this.
  2. erudne

    erudne The Pie Matrix PPL Say Sleeping W/Your Rifle Is A bad Thing? Bronze Supporter

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    keep it low
    PS can't wait to see your build
     
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  3. edslhead

    edslhead Vanc Gold Supporter Gold Supporter Silver Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    What he said.

    keep it low
    PS can't wait to see your build
     
    mjbskwim and SmawGunner like this.
  4. BLUE COLLAR IRONS

    BLUE COLLAR IRONS PDX-VANCOUVER Member

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    Roger that..
     
  5. BLUE COLLAR IRONS

    BLUE COLLAR IRONS PDX-VANCOUVER Member

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  6. BLUE COLLAR IRONS

    BLUE COLLAR IRONS PDX-VANCOUVER Member

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    belcher likes this.
  7. Otter

    Otter Oregon - mid Willamette Valley Active Member

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    On hunting rifles I like the scope low so I get a good cheek weld.

    On target rifles I like the scope up higher so the ear muffs clear the stock. Also, you may need a 20 moa rail (or rings) to shoot that far with that particular scope.

    I don't think you can go with as low as possible without looking at other factors involved.
     
    SmawGunner likes this.
  8. mjbskwim

    mjbskwim Salmon,Idaho Well-Known Member

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    :cool:
     
  9. Velzey

    Velzey Estacada, Oregon Gunsmith Gunsmith Bronze Vendor Bronze Supporter

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    Very nice build! Looks like someone copied one of my builds!

    I don't wear ear muffs so I don't need to worry about banging my muffs on the stock! I love ear plugs!
     
    edslhead likes this.
  10. YOURSUPREMECOMMANDER

    YOURSUPREMECOMMANDER Raleigh Hills, Or. Active Member

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    I shoot long range a lot. For the nay-sayers, I have YouTube videos to prove it. Like a one inch bulls eye at 1,054 yards in a crosswind that required about 10 yards of hold-over and four yards of hold-off. In Fact, in my Avitar picture, it shows the place I made that shot. From the stump my .308 is sitting on, to the distant ridge.
    There is no need for the line of sight to be near the axis of bore! If it was a hunting rifle, that would be a different story.
    A rifles zero is the intersection of the line of sight and axis of bore (well, almost). In a hunting rifle you want these as close to each other as possible because you never know if you are going to shoot 20 yards or 300+ yards, and it does make a difference.
    But in a Long Range rifle, you can use high rings with little impact on outcomes, since environmental factors play such a huge role in shot placement. Also, when shooting long range, there is a lot of math and science involved, and you usually have more time to do the math before you take the shot.
    The reason I use high rings on my long distance rifles is because they are more comfortable, they leave room for hearing protection, provide a better cheek weld, make cycling the bolt easier (especially with gloves on - ya don't hit the scope as easy), Insertion of cartridges and finger extraction of brass, yada yada.
    My 2-sense.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2015
  11. belcher

    belcher vancouver wa Active Member

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    Id like to get a price breakdown.
    Nice rifle man, where did you come across the slip on cheek pad?
     
  12. belcher

    belcher vancouver wa Active Member

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    O and did you coat the barrel yourself?
    Ive been reblueing some old rifles, but would like to try a different coating on my rat gun.
     
  13. locobob

    locobob Beaverton, Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Go with the height that is most comfortable. Scope height over bore makes little difference in regards to your trajectory, especially at long range. Check out this ballistic calculator and try changing the scope height around and you'll see what I mean: http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj_simp-5.1.cgi
     
    Dyjital likes this.
  14. BLUE COLLAR IRONS

    BLUE COLLAR IRONS PDX-VANCOUVER Member

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    Yes did all the work myself.. The finish is duracoate tactical OD green on the stock and Cerakote (forget the color) high temp (air dry) on the barrel and trigger guard.
    The breakdown is al follows.
    Remington 700 in 300 win mag $700
    Timney trigger (you NEED this) $160
    Bolt extender $35
    Cheek rest $12 bucks (eBay) and is made very well..
    Muzzle brake (Khantrol) $100
    Butler caps $18
    Wheeler anti-cant bubble $35
    Harris bipod $80
    Xtreme tactical 20MOA base $70
    Leupold Mark 4 steel scope rings (lapped) $130
    Burris scope $900.
    Now with the scope Im sending it down the road.. The illuminated reticle too a S$#T on me 3 weeks later.. After some research online I saw its happening to other people.. Of course Burris will fix it but now I started questioning the rest of the scope.. So I opted on getting a different scope. The one I originally thought on getting. A SWFA super sniper scope.. After a TON of research on the SWFA SS scope It seems to be not only the best scope for the money (300 to 1400 depending on model, they are ALL good, even the 300 dollar one) but one of the best scopes you can get for long range shooting. The ones with the HD (high density) glass are right up there with schmidt and bender scopes.. The "classic" SS scopes start at 300 for the fixed 10x. These scopes where originally made for the crane division of the navel surface warfare dept.. These are NATO Mil spec scopes. Even the $300 one. Which is actually the one that the navy had made.. Of course they where paying way more for them. I even looked up the military contract numbers and its all accurate info.. The turrets guts are brass and VERY sturdy. The glass is very good and made in Japan. They track PERFECT. 120 MOA of travel, they have been dropped frozen from 10 feet onto concrete and still held zero.. Even after having the nitrogen purged.. STILL held zero.. This is all from Tiborasaurex Rex.. He has a whole video about them and uses them on many of his rifles. They make fixed power and variable power. And one with an illuminated reticle in the HD glass for $1500.. Ill post the link to the story of this scope.. Should have just went with my original decision but instead I listened to some dumb bubblegum who THINKS he knows everything.. These are the real deal and the price is VERY good..

    Here is the vid..
     
  15. Mark-60

    Mark-60 Someplace near Hillsboro Active Member

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    If I can make it to a mile with a .308 on a 20 MOA rail, you should be able to make your range no problem. I'd keep the scope as low as possible as long as it's still comfortable to use. If you shoot suppressed, having the scope a bit higher may help with mirage a bit though.