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I recently switched to a flat top upper in preparation for some goodies to come next year. With my current setup, my front sight gets in the way of my red dot. Next year, the red dot is going away, but I still have the issue of the front sight. Can I simply remove it without having to get new everything? It looks to me like the front sight assembly is what the rails are attached to. I was told that typically the sights are slid over the barrel, then the flash hider/muzzle break are attached. Any truth to that?

I simply want to remove my front sight, and replace it with a flip up sight, what's the easiest way to go about this? I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I am eager to learn.

Thanks!
 
what system do you currently have? picture?

there's a lot of ways to go about it, and there's a lot of weapons people start with.. not knowing exactly what you've got, i can't make many recommendations. you say the FSB (front sight base) appears to hold the front of the "rail"- i assume then that you have a non-floating rail of some sort.

it sounds like your RDS is mounted too low. you cannot use the standard ring that comes with most RDSs, like the aimpoint ring. it's not only too low for the FSB, but it's too low to use. you need to get a mount designed for ARs. because the AR stock is on-axis with the bore, your cheek weld is higher than most rifles. people often don't take this into account.
View attachment 201802
View attachment 201803
100_3201.jpg

the FSP and RDS are perfectly compatible if configured right, and are an ideal setup.

so what exactly do you have?
 
I have the Carbon 15 with SureFire M73 rails, I do suppose just adapting my current setup, then ensuring the setup I get is compatible with the current FSB, I could just spend my money on some good rear sights, as you can see I need.

I plan on getting an ACOG, so it must be compatible with that.

So this is what I have, if you need more pics or specific info let me know.

View attachment 201799

View attachment 201800
 
Tactical SS,

ACOGs are designed to be used with the fixed front sight assembly as you have, and it will always be in the lower part of your field of view, unless your replace the gas block (with fixed front sight assembly) with either a flat top one, or one that has a folding front sight (as MrNiceGuy recommends). This could require a gunsmith's services.
Some optics (such as the that I use: NC Star 3x9 Tactical on my personal AR15-E23 and issue M4) are built too low to be used without a riser on the AR15 platform. I found that without a riser the scope was blocked by the front sight assembly, yet a one-inch riser was too tall, and I couldn't get a good stock weld. 1/2 inch riser (about $30) is just right.
Also, I see by your pictures that you have a raised cheek piece on the butt stock of your carbine. I tried this also (when using the one inch riser). It helped with the stock weld problem, but I couldn't pull the charging handle to the rear unless I extended the stock. Ok on the range, but could lead to embarrassing consequences in combat (while trying to reduce a jam by performing immediate action). The half-inch riser solved the problem and I now just use the standard stock with it.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!
 
Tactical SS,

ACOGs are designed to be used with the fixed front sight assembly as you have, and it will always be in the lower part of your field of view, unless your replace the gas block (with fixed front sight assembly) with either a flat top one, or one that has a folding front sight (as MrNiceGuy recommends). This could require a gunsmith's services.
Some optics (such as the that I use: NC Star 3x9 Tactical on my personal AR15-E23 and issue M4) are built too low to be used without a riser on the AR15 platform. I found that without a riser the scope was blocked by the front sight assembly, yet a one-inch riser was too tall, and I couldn't get a good stock weld. 1/2 inch riser (about $30) is just right.
Also, I see by your pictures that you have a raised cheek piece on the butt stock of your carbine. I tried this also (when using the one inch riser). It helped with the stock weld problem, but I couldn't pull the charging handle to the rear unless I extended the stock. Ok on the range, but could lead to embarrassing consequences in combat (while trying to reduce a jam by performing immediate action). The half-inch riser solved the problem and I now just use the standard stock with it.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

I currently have zero experience with the ACOG. They seem to be pretty difficult to find in store so I haven't been able to see one up close yet. I do plan on getting some hands on time with one before I make the purchase though. If the ACOG reticle will clear the front sight, then I really have no issue for my future plans. As for right now, I can probably just pick up a 1/2 riser like you are talking about and make it work, along with some rear sights. I don't really care if I can see the FSB in the bottom of my FOV, as long as it doesn't get in the way or hinder the performance.

I also know what you mean about the cheek piece, it does get in the way unless it's extended a bit, and I don't like that fact. I may be taking it off soon.
 
do you want a gas-block/barrel mounted flipup, or a rail mounted flipper? if you go GB, you just pull the muzzle device, pull the FSB, then put on the new one. if you want rail-mounted, you need to get a free-floating handguard, either pull the FSB and install a low-pro gas block or shave down the FSP, and mount a sight to the handguard. it's all fairly involved, depending on your knowledge/skill level... and it sounds like you're lacking in both.

i suggest spending some time reading at M4Carbine.net
 
The main problem for pulling my muzzle device is my barrel is only 14.5", according to Bushmaster, my flash suppressor is pinned and welded in place to achieve an overall length of 16".

I think at this point I am going to try my luck with a 1/2" riser and see if that solves my current problem, and it should. When it comes time for the ACOG, I'll make sure there are no issues before I purchase it.
 
Here is another one, is it worth changing my factory bolt carrier group with a different one?

Is there any benefit to chrome plating, a titanium nitride coating, or a nickel boron plating? Or would money be better spent getting a rebuild kit for spare parts?
 
the coatings are only beneficial if you're gonna be running suppressed, full-auto, on an SBR, in the desert, with no lubrication.

i think they're gay, personally.

one of bushmaster's weak points is their bolts.. you don't necessarily need to replace the whole assembly, but i would strongly encourage you to replace the bolt with an HPT/MPI cert'd bolt- Colt, BCM, DD, LMT, FN, and CMT does cert'd runs, which are good to go when available.

in my experience- which is significantly more than most, i have no problem stating- LMT makes the best bolt on the market. they're relief cut behind the lugs, which adds strength and keeps the area cleaner. most lug breakage is from pitting behind the lugs.
 
I dont like looking through my optic and seeing the front sight post. But I do however want the ability to co witness. I am a big fan of folding or flip sights.

I have no experience with aimpoint, Im an eotech fan. Heres one of my setups that work really well.
frontsight2.jpg
frontsight1.jpg

This is the Yankee hill machine version, there are many others.

I would recommend a solid titanium firing pin. These can be had on gunbroker dot com for around $20.
firingpin.jpg
Or call this fellow. ( I dont know him, but he sold me several online)
 
I would recommend a solid titanium firing pin. These can be had on gunbroker dot com for around $20.

why? titanium firing pins combine two of the least desirable attributes you'd want in a firing pin: bad impact resistance and bad abrasion resistance. in other words, they're brittle and wear fast.
 
Is this just because you don't like co-witnessing the iron sight and the red dot? Or is the actual gas block/sight base in the way? Have you shot this set-up?

Looking at your pic, it appears to me that the center of the red dot will line up with the front sight or just clear the sight post. If the front sight post is not blocking the actual red dot and is in the bottom half of the reticle, this should not be a problem. A lot of people complain about seeing the front sight post in the bottom half of the reticle. Sitting in a gun store or your living room it will seem like a problem that you will notice every time you bring the rifle up to your shoulder. However, once out on the range, you will find that it will disappear. This is because you will be focusing on the target (well beyond the end of your rifle). Because your eyes can't focus on two planes at once, the post should almost completely disappear from view. Looking at the wall in your house, the post might fuzz out a little, but will still seem highly noticeable. Also, if you have shot iron sights very much, at close ranges you may have a tendency to focus on the front sight (making it bolder and more noticeable) rather than the target (as is necessary when using an optic).
 
I use a red dot with a lower 1/3rd cowitness with the iron sights. This way it is out of the way when using the red dot, and if you want to use the irons you just shift your cheek weld down a bit.
 
optics are rarely compatible with ARs without high rings/risers. hence the huge market for aftermarket RDS accessories for this platform. i wouldn't be at all surprised if his FSB is in the way of the dot.
 
the coatings are only beneficial if you're gonna be running suppressed, full-auto, on an SBR, in the desert, with no lubrication.

i think they're gay, personally.

one of bushmaster's weak points is their bolts.. you don't necessarily need to replace the whole assembly, but i would strongly encourage you to replace the bolt with an HPT/MPI cert'd bolt- Colt, BCM, DD, LMT, FN, and CMT does cert'd runs, which are good to go when available.

in my experience- which is significantly more than most, i have no problem stating- LMT makes the best bolt on the market. they're relief cut behind the lugs, which adds strength and keeps the area cleaner. most lug breakage is from pitting behind the lugs.

Thanks, I'll probably end up getting a new bolt and a parts kit for spare parts.

optics are rarely compatible with ARs without high rings/risers. hence the huge market for aftermarket RDS accessories for this platform. i wouldn't be at all surprised if his FSB is in the way of the dot.

My FSB is in the way of my red dot, I will either get risers or a flip up rear sight and scrap the red dot and focus on outfitting it for the ACOG in the future.
 

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