School me on bicycles?

[Member 34319]

Last year we moved. Now I'm ridiculously close to the Banks Vernonia Trail. I've enjoyed riding bikes as a form of exercise for the last two to three years now.

I've got an old workhorse Costco special that is heavy to say the least. I've also been towing my son along in his Burley tow along.

Right now I average about 10-15 miles every other day or third day. Depending mostly on the toddlers behavior at any given moment.

I'm looking to get a bit more serious and upgrade to a nicer lighter bike that will make things smoother and allow me to go further more efficiently and more comfortably

Thing is I haven't a clue to what I need and the options are a lot more than I expected.

So based on that information. Should I go straight to a road bike? Would it still be a good option for towing the kid?

What about hybrids?

Or another mountain bike type?

I've done some looking at what's available. I think I like the idea of the hybrid type bikes. As I don't know if i really want to go with a road bike. Though I may get more serious and it may become something I take up as a viable hobby too.

This Specialized is checking all the boxes.



My current workhorse...

Read More

 

[Member 34319]

Also any tips on a good shop in Beaverton/Hillsboro that would be of good assistance in a purchase would be appreciated.

 

[solv3nt]

Basically, you pay for weight, or lack thereof. The frame manufacture almost doesn't matter, it's more the components that matter. An entry road bike will start at $500 for a bargain basement with a lot of plastic

Shimano is the main groupo manufacture, their top three are dura ace, ultegra and 105, unless they've come up with something new since I stopped road biking. Dura ace us the top of the line groupo, and you won't be able to get into a new bike with that for less than about $2,000.

It really depends on how many miles that you want to put on it and how much money you plan on spending. I had a dura ace aluminum bike that weighed around 15lbs that I put a lot of miles on. Anything that rotates will save you weight energy, pedals, wheels, gears, etc.

Depending on your shape, and intended riding, you can get a full sized double, compact, or a triple front gear set. If you don't do hills, or have some intense leg strength, get a double. If you're a normal mortal, a compact is perfect. If you plan on being able to walk up the steepest how while still pedaling, get a triple.

 

[that guy]

That Specialized looks perfect for the use you describe. That said, don't get too caught up in brands or minute spec details. Find a bike shop that you feel deserves your business and takes care of you, rather than just whatever is cheaper. (Sounds familiar?)

 

[MrMillspecer]

What about with electric assist ? Award-Winning Electric Bikes | Rad Power Bikes

 

[Oregonhunter5]

I have a Klein Biden from 1998. Hard tail. Like To ride but it hurts my shoulders a lot. I think it's from lean forward.

 

[BillyJean]

If I was in your situation I'd get into something like a Surly Cross-Check, Pacer, or Long-Haul Trucker.

You can go pretty light but stick with a steel frame which offers a more comfortable ride and longer-lasting.

Shamino 105 is totally solid and you really don't need more than that if you're not racing.

Invest in a comfortable, nice saddle. I like the Brooks B.17 but it takes maintaince and is a pain in rain.

There's a lot of pressure in bicycling to get into the racer/weight weenie mentality, but my recommendation is to avoid that rat race unless you're really getting into it, and that's a whole different budget and conversation.

 

[ron]

I love the Banks Vernonia trail. I would recommend a hybrid for several reasons. The taller '700" or 27 inch wheels roll much easier.
You have to work harder on a mountain bike with the 26" wheels like yours. The road bike has the terrible handle bars you have to hunch over.
The hybrid is more of a sitting up straight handlebars like your mountain bike. I have an old Gary Fisher hybrid. I have had it for many years
and have replaced almost all of the components. It is not very light weight but very sturdy. FYI electric bikes not legal on most bike trails.
"No motorized vehicle" posted on most all bike trails.

 

[Member 34319]

I've looked at electric. I think that's cheating being honest.

My price range is around 400-800. I don't really want to spend a grand for a bicycle. If I get into it more and start riding solo daily, that might change.

Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Please keep them coming, some I've never heard of, so the more options, the better.

 

[MrMillspecer]

State Parks Commission approves new rule allowing e-bikes on paths and trails

A sensible step to keep up with the times.

bikeportland.org

OPRD acknowledged that they never intended to exclude e-bike riders from popular paths like the Historic Columbia River Highway and Banks-Vernonia Trail. The situation, they felt, was a matter of the law not keeping up with the times. Oregon's vehicle code recognizes e-bikes as bicycles; but OPRD facilities are managed with Oregon Administrative Rules (OAR) which didn't mention e-bikes at all. This meant they fell into the category of "motor vehicles" and were managed as such.

 

[CamoDeafie]

Good steel frames are excellent.

Good components are important.

Good wheels and tires, also important.

Most important though, the fit to your body/ride style. Sometimes mixing parts like handlebars and stems and framesets are needed to get just right.

There are some quality used frame sets out there that takes little work to get to excellent fit and ride for you. Bike co-ops are decent places to find good frame sets and combos. If they're open anywhere

 

[solv3nt]

Consider used, your dollar will go a lot further if you want a better bike. Unless you're looking for speed and miles, I'd go the hybrid route.

 

[CamoDeafie]

Ya want brutal, punishing, heavy and maybe fun? Something like this might be hilarious
1980s Schwinn Cruiser 5 with Araya wheels, Suntour 6 speed rear, and MTB brake levers on original cruiser bars, and Persons vinyl/pleather saddle from the 1980s as well. Its basically a Clunker/Klunker from the late 80s with late 80s parts.

 

[MrMillspecer]

I use these for the Crown Zellerbach trail. It runs from Scappoose to just before Vernonia . Was just fishing in Vernonia a few days ago. Haven't been on the bikes for a while though. Both are old bikes.

 

[03A3Sporter]

I ride bikes a LOT , currently I own 3 but have owned more and in the very recent past in fact. Another member opined that you're paying for weight reduction and that is partially true but its not the whole story. If you are a racer or have aspirations of racing then yes you will surely pay for weight savings within a given component group and frameset when you buy a bike. BUT I assure you cheap garbage bikes of the big box store variety will weigh more than a quality made bike regardless of frame and component construction.

Aluminum tends to be not substantially lighter than a good quality cro moly steel frame as Aluminum tubes have to be oversized or possibly thicker to have the same level of strength. Additionally it matters whether you are talking about frames that are made from double butted or even triple butted and splined tubes .

When it comes to carbon the cost is going to be because it is carbon in part and there is a lot of hand work in carbon fiber layup, the other component of cost in a carbon frame will be the blend of carbon fibers the manufacturer uses to create stiffness and compliance in the frame.

If you are getting decent quality components they will be made of aluminum not steel , and these days most of the better quality entry level bikes will be 3x9 or 2x10 drive trains . Only the really cheap gas pipe bikes use 21 speed or smaller drive trains now days.

What is your budget realistically ? Because that will truly determine what kind of bike you end up with.. In that same vein if you're new to this you can save a ton getting a high quality used bike to ride and try until you are certain this is something you want to do all the time ...

The next questions that will need answered is what type of riding do you want to do? I mean do you plan to do a lot of road riding or do you envision yourself riding mixed surface ? Do you plan to use the bike for practical transportation or just recreation ?


I am happy to help you but this is a subject that can be complex , additionally if you do not get the right bike chances are you won't ride it and it will sit and not get used. Please feel free to PM me and I will help you get sorted out.

 

[Member 34319]

Good to know about steel vs aluminum. Never thought about that that way.

 

[Oregonhunter5]

I ride bikes a LOT , currently I own 3 but have owned more and in the very recent past in fact. Another member opined that you're paying for weight reduction and that is partially true but its not the whole story. If you are a racer or have aspirations of racing then yes you will surely pay for weight savings within a given component group and frameset when you buy a bike. BUT I assure you cheap garbage bikes of the big box store variety will weigh more than a quality made bike regardless of frame and component construction.

Aluminum tends to be not substantially lighter than a good quality cro moly steel frame as Aluminum tubes have to be oversized or possibly thicker to have the same level of strength. Additionally it matters whether you are talking about frames that are made from double butted or even triple butted and splined tubes .

When it comes to carbon the cost is going to be because it is carbon in part and there is a lot of hand work in carbon fiber layup, the other component of cost in a carbon frame will be the blend of carbon fibers the manufacturer uses to create stiffness and compliance in the frame.

If you are getting decent quality components they will be made of aluminum not steel , and these days most of the better quality entry level bikes will be 3x9 or 2x10 drive trains . Only the really cheap gas pipe bikes use 21 speed or smaller drive trains now days.

What is your budget realistically ? Because that will truly determine what kind of bike you end up with.. In that same vein if you're new to this you can save a ton getting a high quality used bike to ride and try until you are certain this is something you want to do all the time ...

The next questions that will need answered is what type of riding do you want to do? I mean do you plan to do a lot of road riding or do you envision yourself riding mixed surface ? Do you plan to use the bike for practical transportation or just recreation ?


I am happy to help you but this is a subject that can be complex , additionally if you do not get the right bike chances are you won't ride it and it will sit and not get used. Please feel free to PM me and I will help you get sorted out.

Conclusion
$2,000 is the beginning price on a decent bike.
$8,000-13,000 for racing bikes.
Right?

 

[Stomper]

Last year we moved. Now I'm ridiculously close to the Banks Vernonia Trail. I've enjoyed riding bikes as a form of exercise for the last two to three years now.

I've got an old workhorse Costco special that is heavy to say the least. I've also been towing my son along in his Burley tow along.

Right now I average about 10-15 miles every other day or third day. Depending mostly on the toddlers behavior at any given moment.

I'm looking to get a bit more serious and upgrade to a nicer lighter bike that will make things smoother and allow me to go further more efficiently and more comfortably

Thing is I haven't a clue to what I need and the options are a lot more than I expected.

So based on that information. Should I go straight to a road bike? Would it still be a good option for towing the kid?

What about hybrids?

Or another mountain bike type?

I've done some looking at what's available. I think I like the idea of the hybrid type bikes. As I don't know if i really want to go with a road bike. Though I may get more serious and it may become something I take up as a viable hobby too.

This Specialized is checking all the boxes.

View attachment 704698

My current workhorse... View attachment 704699

What, no training wheels and "special" helmet?

 

[Member 34319]

Conclusion
$2,000 is the beginning price on a decent bike.
$8,000-13,000 for racing bikes.
Right?

Err I was thinking, $600 seems a nice amount to spend.

 

[Member 34319]

What, no training wheels and "special" helmet?

Special helmet yes, but even those of special needs don't always need training wheels.