JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
109
Reactions
7
I purchased my first hunting rifle in years today. I picked up a pretty decent deal on the above mentioned combo rifle. Paid $349.97 + $10 background for it. It has a decent Bushnell 3-9x40 scope. Nothing fancy. Stuck a Butler Creek sling on it and grabbed some ammo. I'm going to go sight it in next week. I have a couple of questions:

  1. How many rounds should I shoot when sighting in my rifle?
  2. Should I sight it in past 100yds?
  3. I have about $100 left over. Is there anything you would buy that would make this a "better" gun?

I know it's not a great gun, but it's a start.
 
In my humble opinion:
#1 One/a few shots at 25yds to see if your close and when you are go to 100yds. Shoot a group of 3+ and walk the holes to the center of the target. You might be interested in "barrel break-in" but that is a can of worms in not opining. However, i would avoid shooting to the point where the barrel is very hot and maybe clean it a few times. If you google barrel break-in it will give some food for thought.
#2 2in high at 100yds should get you close to dead on at 200yds and 8in low at 300yds (165gr load). But i don't like to make a shot at a range i haven't practiced at.
#3 Ammo or loading components for practice and to see what your rifle likes.

Best of luck, go out and see how she shoots!
 
I know of one place I can shoot. I drive a little 4dr car, so getting out in the boonies to shoot, can be a problem. I'm on the extreme west end of populated Washington County. Any suggestions of places that I might be able to shoot w/o joining a range (I'm poor)? If you are willing to share a shooting spot, I'm a very clean person and I don't leave my crap laying around. PM me if you want to keep it a secret :) Thanks all!
 
drive down to Four Corners Rod and Gun Club East of Salem pay 6 bucks (sat or Sun) to sight in your rifle with the experts help. It will be the best thing you could do. A real rifle range gunsmiths in attendance and a couple of very experanced guys to help you. Then you can try a couple shots at the 200 yard gong and running dear targets.
 
Isn't tri county gun club right in your area as well? I don't know if they have sight in days for the hunters or not, I know ARPC does and it sounds like 4 corners as well
 
  1. How many rounds should I shoot when sighting in my rifle?
  2. Should I sight it in past 100yds?
  3. I have about $100 left over. Is there anything you would buy that would make this a "better" gun?

I know it's not a great gun, but it's a start.

1 - As many as it takes to be confident. For me, I'm a 3-5 shot group guy.
2 - Only if you are going to shoot past 100. I know people have all sorts of reasons for this and that. Seriously, if you "Can't find a place to shoot that far", do you really think you can find a place to hunt, AND shoot that far?? Also, DON'T assume 1.5-2" over = anything. Unless you have a chronograph, you don't know, and one guess is about the same as any other.
3 - This really is an individual personal preference. Personally I HATE Savage's tupperware stocks, Especially for hunting. The *TINK, TINK* sound that echo's from the sling swivels hitting that plastic.... No thanks.

As long as that scope will hold a zero for you, get whatever will make you happier with the gun.
 
Your proficiency will determine how may rounds it'll take you to zero you scope at a given range. With a new factor hunting rifle I wouldn't be confident is less than 50. Barrel break in would factor in to the round count.

I agree that your best best is to go to a range where you'll have some help if you need it.

I'll presume you will be hunting. Consistency is the name of the game. I don't know what cartridge you're shooting but for a .308 Win., with a Nosler 165 gr. Partition factory round, a zero of +2 inches at 100 yards will yield a 6 inch kill zone shot out to 240 yards. This would be the maximum ethical shot for a deer. The optimal game weight at 240 yds. is about 470 lbs. for this cartridge at a MV of 2800 fps.

As far as making this a better gun, you're it. Practice, practice, practice.

B
 
I'll have my father with me, helping me zero it in. He's a Master Hunter, taxidermist, all around sportsman. I'm sure he can help me get it on target. The ammo I have currently is the Remington 150gr. for my 30-06.
 
3) A stock upgrade would probably be helpful but will be outside your $100. I'd pick up a nice one piece base and some quality rings. The next two upgrades on list would be rings, glass, then stock. Once you shoot out your barrel or just want to swap check out Criterion barrels
 
I don't know what cartridge you're shooting but for a .308 Win., with a Nosler 165 gr. Partition factory round, a zero of +2 inches at 100 yards will yield a 6 inch kill zone shot out to 240 yards. This would be the maximum ethical shot for a deer. The optimal game weight at 240 yds. is about 470 lbs. for this cartridge at a MV of 2800 fps.
B

Good Lord!! Lets actually help the newbie here and NOT tell him fairytales...

First-off "A zero of +2" at 100" isn't a zero, it's 2" high @ 100... Which @ 1,000 ft elevation is ZEROED @ 205 yards with your 2800fps MV. Given your 2" high @ 100, out to 240 yards he would be 2.1" low..... That is less than 6 inches by my math....

Why I said without a chronograph one persons "GUESS" is no better than another. Get a chrony and a ballistics calculator, so you don't listen to WAGS, from people who think they know.

2800 fps from a 165gr Partition is MOVING!! and NOT what factory ammo will be pushing.
But in keeping with that start speed, at this fabled max of 240 yards;
That partition is still traveling 2300-ish fps. That is WELL within the velocity operating window for that bullet(as stated by Nosler). Along with that, it is carrying JUST less than 2000 lb/ft of energy. WELL MORE than ANY DEER on this planet will need to "die ethically".

For YOUR 30-06, if you don't have any of these tools(chrony, etc) START here:
http://www.remington.com/pages/news-and-resources/ballistics.aspx
 
there is quite a few places to shoot off highway 6, browns camp is closed at the moment but there is a quarry about 2 miles past jones creek on the left.
i would figure in 5 shots to get where you want it at 25 yards, then another 5 to get it where you want it at 100 yards and then when you figure you have it dialed in do another 3-5 shot grouping. might take less but that is what i would figure in.

as for the stock i wouldnt change it myself i personally dont see any need to, its fine for what it is.
i would look more into changing the scope out but if all you have is 100$ that is probably out of the question unless you went out and bought the same quality scope that it already comes with.

i never did the "break in process" on any of my rifles and they all seem fine, i just shoot 3-5 rounds and go check my targets while the barrel is cooling down. i give it about 10 minutes.

if you have extra money to throw at it get yourself a good cleaning kit, a gun case and maybe some butler creek flipup caps.
 
Thanks all. I think I understand the +2 stuff... but it's more information than I need. How about I go out and just dial it in to bullseye at 100yds. Call it good. If I am out farther than 100yds, I'll just aim a tad high. I'll play around with that if given the chance.

I think the stock is fine. It rains in Oregon :eek: so synthetic is fine. I have stuff to clean the gun as I have a handgun and a .22 as well. I just picked up a bore snake that would fit this barrel. I also have a cloth bag or sock that I slip the gun into. I've thought about the flip ups as well. They're pretty nice. I'll save up next year, maybe, to get a better scope.

With the money I have left, I'm probably going to buy some more ammo and maybe a bit more supplies for brewing. :beer: I am a serial hobbyist. :s0155:
 
I didn't get the caliber. -06?

I have a couple, a Stevens 200 in .223 and I just got a 11 Hunter XP in 260 Rem. If you don't mind the utilitarian looks and the flexy stocks they're great values and usually excellent shooters.

The forearms flex a bit so practice your hold and look at the channel to make sure it isn't touching the barrel. If you wrap the sling while shooting wrap it so it goes around your wrist and pulls straight down so it doesn't twist the stock. Some people glass carbon arrow shafts into the forearm to stiffen it up. If it bothers you enough an aftermarket stock can be had for $100.

The Accutriggers can be adjusted down easily, the min-max weights depend on which spring the factory installed. I installed an Accutrigger in the Stevens and modded the spring to get it down to 2lbs and just did the same to the 260 last night. It looked like it was set to bout 3 1/2 lb before I started which isn't a bad weight. I wouldn't recommend going much below that in a hunting rifle unless the shooter has lots of experience keeping the finger out of the trigger guard. After you adjust it the stock action bolts torque to 30-35 INCH lbs.

I haven't found an aftermarket recoil pad because of the weird way the pad mounts so I swapped the rock-hard 260 pad for the super soft Stevens pad, the .223 doesn't need a recoil pad anyway. If yours is rock-hard too you might find a Stevens pad from a take-off stock on the Savage Shooters forum. Is your recoil pad recessed into the stock like mine?

Mine came with the Nikon 3x9-40 w ballistic reticule. It seems fine but I'll get Talley aluminum mounts and a Leupold 3-9 Ultralight scope and cut 1/2 lb off the gun bringing it down to 7lbs.

Good luck w it and let us know how it shoots.
 
I got this hunch about that recessed recoil pad and whatdyaknow it's recessed 1/2" which means it's a cheap way of producing one stock that can be cut to mount either 1/2" or 1" pads. So if your gun kicks too much cut that thing down to the interior mold line and install a thick Limbsaver or Decelerator. I already have a 1" pad that will fit so that soft 1/2" pad is going back on the Stevens.
 
Anyone know if the Nikon with BDC reticle is worth the extra $50 or $60?

i have 2 rifles with nikon scopes and bdc reticles, alot of people think they are too cluttered but personally i wouldnt buy a nikon without that reticle. i havent gotten enough range time with it so i havent tested the other hashmarks at long range but i am sure with a rangefinder and a little practice it should work out quite nicely.
i dont really hunt in areas that i will be making shots over 200 yards or so but i like having the edge just incase i am ever faced with this situation.
plus i cant stand duplex reticles, not cool enough looking for my taste.
i have the nikon rimfire w/ bdc on my 22 mag and a buckmaster w/bdc on my 30-06
 

Similar threads

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top