Ruger SR1911 10mm Owners?

[Ura-Ki]

Wow, that's not good! Looks to me like the origional barrel wasn't cut and fitted to the frame correctly ( at the "Para notch") plots not suposed to have any interference, or actually hit, more like just nest gently. This is the better system of supporting a barrel in a 1911 pistol, and works quite well.

Your failure to feed issue is a very common one, what' most likely the "Cause" is the breach face needing a polish, and a light blending of the feed ramp to chamber transition. Every 10 MM 1911 I have ever run across has had this issue, and you ether shoot it until it works it self out, or you proactively work it out by hand. I will post up some pictures here soon to show the issue and how to deal with It! Sorry to hear of your problems, hope it gets fixed! That's a nice piece, be a shame to have issues! Glad you didn't get hurt!

 

[WAYNO]

I've already polished the feed ramp. That helped the feeding, but not entirely. I will buff the breach face as a next attempt.

 

[Norwestr55]

I read your thread on the Ruger forum and its concerning that a couple other guys had the same problem. It doesn't seem like its a hugely wide spread problem because as we know if anyone has a problem it gets posted somewhere. I'm keeping a close eye on mine in the meantime. Hope you get the feeding problems straightened out Wayne!

 

[Ura-Ki]

Here are the areas to look at. On the barrel, there is a very sharp lip from the ramp to the chamber, lightly blend that down and do a light poilsh.
On the breach face, you want it smooth, and the wear marks eaven.
On the frame, look at the front of the rails, this is the impact surface ( slide stop) not the barrel support. The barrel cut in the frame shouldn' have any impact marks.

 

[Ura-Ki]

To really get the breach face nice and polished, you should remove the fireing pin and extractor, it's easy and won't affect the extractor. I use a couple of popsicle sticks super glued together, and glue 600 and 800 grit to them and work it smooth, then take more sticks an d do 1000 and 1200 to put a shine on It! Another area to polish is the under side of the barrel hood, that always helps too!

 

[MrRob96]

In addition to the above from Ura-Ki, I polished the face of the extractor that engaged the rim of the cartridge. I also took some tension off of the extractor.

That cleared up my FTFs.

 

[MrRob96]

Or you can buy a Smith 3rd gen 10x6 and be done with all the finicky 1911 BS.

 

[mr.revolverguy]

My SR1911 10MM is still holding up very well after 600 rounds. Though I did make some modifications mainly for piece of mind as some say the modifications aren't needed.

I called EGW and they sent me a flat bottom firing pin stop that I had to do a lot of work in fitting it. Though it was very rewarding, that was at 120 rounds and it still perfect through 600 rounds.

I also put a wilson shok buffer in all of my 1911 10MM only, 45's do not get these. So far in the sr1911 after 600 rounds it still looks good.

The Ruger SR1911 comes with an 18 pound recoil spring and 30 pound hammer spring which I validated with support. Knowing that the delta elite comes with what is equivalent to a 23pound recoil spring in their dual capture spring setup. I swapped out the SR1911 recoil spring for a 20pound recoil spring.

All of these changes were made at 120 rounds and everything so far has been flawless. I do run 200gr loads at 1260fps measured by my chronograph and 135gr loads at 1559 avg across the chronograph, which are considered to be hot or upper end 10mm loads with 700ft/lbs of energey. Most of what the SR1911 has seen is a load of 175gr SWC at 1202fps with 562ft/lbs this is considered to me a medium load.

 

[Mygrainman]

I really want to get into 10mm. It's gotta have the form and the function. I want something that will be the envy of the range, shoots good, and will be 100% reliable.... so I'm holding out for these to become commercially available.

 

[mr.revolverguy]

Great join the 10MM crowd -- to each their own on the choice they make

 

[gmerkt]

Bad news with the cracked barrel, above.

I've got one of the Ruger 1911's in 10mm, like it a lot but I can't say that I've fired it all that much. I've got two Colt Delta Elites, how much 10mm can you shoot? Accuracy with the Ruger was great; one day I had my chrono set up at 50 yards for rifle stuff, decided to check my 10mm loads, was able to hit the black ball at 50 yards with the Ruger 10mm pistol, pretty good for me with old eyes and semi-crippled hands. I roll my own ammo, don't fire hot loads in 10mm, tend to the cooler side but ahead of .40 S&W. Polymer coated lead bullets that are popular now, that coating can add just enough extra to give a tight chamber fit. One of my Colts wouldn't reliably function with coated bullets, a friend gave me an older, looser early generation Delta Elite bbl., it works okay with the coated bullets. Which I won't buy anymore for this reason.

The Ruger 1911 10mm, came in a cardboard box. Ruger puts everything else in an air-droppable plastic molded box but not the 10mm. Not mine, anyway.

One thing I don't like about the Ruger 10mm, the beavertail on the grip safety. Said grip safety makes it difficult to get a good grip on the rounded hammer spur, for me anyway. This causes me to adopt a completely different philosophy about de-cocking the hammer on a loaded chamber in this gun. I won't do it, I'm too apt to bobble the hammer and have an accidental discharge. Better I drop the mag, and jack the slide to clear the round from the chamber. This isn't a problem with my Colt Delta Elites, they both have a roundel hammer and Commander grip safety without the fancy beavertail. Said another way, that Ruger beavertail gets in the way of the hammer for me.

I'm no expert in working on 1911's. But I've found that a Colt grip safety will not work in the Ruger 1911 10mm.

 

[gmerkt]

Old thread. Update to my last post, above. I've had the Ruger 10mm SR1911 out several times since last post, no problems. It's one of the handguns I own that I can shoot well easily. I don't load hot stuff for the gun, maybe that's part of "easy." As I said in my previous post, I didn't like the skeleton hammer. I was able to get a non-Ruger grip safety to work and changed the hammer to a Colt 1911. It was much easier to manipulate but I didn't like the pull. No adjustment of the trigger would help the pull. This is the point where I stop playing gunsmith because in reality, I'm not one. I can swap parts but working on a sear/hammer arrangement isn't in my skill set and I know when to stop before I ruin good parts. So I went back to the original hammer and grip safety. And back to decent trigger pull and I will live with the hard to manipulate original set-up.

Never had any of the jamming issues with the Ruger 10mm, not once, with many different hand loads, bullet weights, etc. Never had any with the Colt out of the box for that matter either. Lighter loads seem to be fine with factory spring arrangements.

One thing I don't like about this pistol is the take-down. It's fairly easy but that little wire tool that they provided with the pistol is too easy to loose.

In the meantime, I sold my spare Colt Delta Elite and bought a new Smith & Wesson Model 610 revolver.

I have a Glock 23 (.40 S&W) which I like. I've been giving a second look at buying a Glock in 10mm since I'm so invested in 10mm stuff. I guess they are sturdy enough to take 10mm or they wouldn't sell them. I load pretty soft ammo, should be no problem for a 10mm Glock, I'd think.

At one time, I had a 10mm Auto barrel for my Contender. But I sold that when I discovered at long last that I couldn't shoot a Contender properly and got rid of all that equipment.

 

[MrRob96]

Do you own any Tanfos in 10mm? Always an option there.

 

[gmerkt]

At this time, I do not. I've looked at Tanfoglio products several times. I'd be interested in .38 Super and 10mm. The 10mm I think comes in steel frame or polymer, I 'd want steel. The prices are attractive. I may get one in future.