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Ruger Yukon magnum.177 cal
Ruger 3-9-32 scope (real)
About 50-60 feet
Caldwell bench full rest
Between 1000-1200 manufacturers spec. Fastest with alloy pellets

Pellets tried
H&N rabbit magnums 15 grn
Winchester alloy max 4.5 grn
Premier pointed lead 7.4 grn
And another polymer point thing 5-6-grn
So,.... many
Some cast or cut better than others

Very random 3 inch "groups" all over the place. May get 2-3 pellets to think I'm good now. But then another random 2-3 shots. Trigger is heavier than any other type of gun I've shot. 10-15 pounds .... more it feels but I'm not sure at all.
I'd imagine much better from this thing. My .25 Hatsan Airtac shoots like a rimfire at close range.

Bad scope?
Shaky shooter?
Bad barrel?
Or am I expecting too much from Ruger?
Thx
 
3in group at 20y or so is pretty bad. Does the gun have irons? I'd take the scope off, clean the barrel and give it another shot...pun intended.
Thx for perspective
Will go again, I can't remember last time I shot the "iron"....... fiber optic plastic with a bad glue job. Any other thoughts if it's still off. Other tries or would one say a warranty thing now? Can't imagine a barrel doing that.
 
I get different groups if I shoot my Benjamin from a rest. Forced me to do all sighting in from a practical position and stick with that position.

Is the scope airgun rated? The scope that came with my Benjamin wasn't and couldnt handle the airgun recoil and broke in short order. POI would move around.
 
I get different groups if I shoot my Benjamin from a rest. Forced me to do all sighting in from a practical position and stick with that position.

Is the scope airgun rated? The scope that came with my Benjamin wasn't and couldnt handle the airgun recoil and broke in short order. POI would move around.
Yes, is air rated
Was thinking too, that it hits harder than my 10-22 even with the wood stock that's huge... whole rifle is friggin heavy.
Got in summer ..... receipt is long gone. Was really favoring my Hatsan..... half its weight (synthetic stock). Delayed buyers remorse; was just confident in Ruger.
Thank you, I'll try another scope I have.
 
I'd make sure the o-ring around the chamber is nice and oiled. After that, see if someone else is getting the same results. A 14 lb trigger is also not conducive to nice groups.
 
Okay, first, the only thing Ruger about it is the name, it's made in China. Umarex claims to be the manufacturer, but they're just an importer, they don't actually make anything.

Next, avoid both the light and heavy pellets, stick to mid range for caliber, in this case, around 8 gr. The Crosman Premiers will probably be pretty good, but avoid pointed pellets, they're almost never accurate. Most air rifles need a fairly long break in, 500 rounds isn't at all uncommon. And forget about the 1000+ FPS velocity claims. Yeah, it might do it with a light enough pellet, but you'll be lucky to hit the broad side of a barn from inside the barn. The modern air gun pellet is, by design, a low velocity projectile, think badminton birdie, not sleek boat tail rifle bullet. They do very poorly at supersonic velocity, and are especially bad in the transonic zone. Ideal velocity is generally 800-900 FPS.

Oh, and NEVER dry fire a spring piston rifle, even the ones with a gas piston. It can and will damage a steel spring, and for the gas piston models, it'll burn the piston seal. Don't leave them cocked for long periods, either, especially if it has a steel spring.

Another never, avoid ANY petroleum based lubricants, and never introduce any oil into the firing chamber/transfer port. This WILL cause detonation, and is another way to damage springs and piston seals. A little silicone grease on the breech seal is all it should need, unless you're willing to learn how to tear it down and do a proper tune-up.

Also, DO NOT USE FIREARMS CLEANING SOLVENT IN AIR GUNS! They seldom need cleaning, and when they do, a pull through patch with a little Goo Gone is all you need, weed whacker line makes a great pull through. No brushes, ever, and if you clean it once a year, you're probably overdoing it. And be prepared for the accuracy to fall off after cleaning, it typically takes 50-100 rounds to re-season the barrel.

Toss the scope, it's crap, if it isn't broken already, it will be shortly. As to your poor accuracy, do a Google search on "artillery hold". Springers typically don't do well off a rest, and a firm grip like you'd use with a centerfire rifle will yield less than acceptable results as well. They're also very particular about forearm support, experiment with different positions fore and aft. In general, the lightest touch possible will yield the best results.

Usually not much you can do about the triggers on the cheaper springers, although they do smooth out some with use. If you're more mechanically inclined, you could try tinkering with springs and shims, but that will depend on the particular trigger in your gun, some respond better than others. Although more expensive than it should be, it's still in the cheap springer class, you'd need to spend a little more to get a decent trigger, and quite a bit more to get a truly good one. Oh, and don't expect a springer to have a trigger like a PCP, there's a huge difference in the forces involved. Hope that's some help, but if you have some specific questions, feel free to PM me. Later.

Dave
 
Okay, first, the only thing Ruger about it is the name, it's made in China. Umarex claims to be the manufacturer, but they're just an importer, they don't actually make anything.

Next, avoid both the light and heavy pellets, stick to mid range for caliber, in this case, around 8 gr. The Crosman Premiers will probably be pretty good, but avoid pointed pellets, they're almost never accurate. Most air rifles need a fairly long break in, 500 rounds isn't at all uncommon. And forget about the 1000+ FPS velocity claims. Yeah, it might do it with a light enough pellet, but you'll be lucky to hit the broad side of a barn from inside the barn. The modern air gun pellet is, by design, a low velocity projectile, think badminton birdie, not sleek boat tail rifle bullet. They do very poorly at supersonic velocity, and are especially bad in the transonic zone. Ideal velocity is generally 800-900 FPS.

Oh, and NEVER dry fire a spring piston rifle, even the ones with a gas piston. It can and will damage a steel spring, and for the gas piston models, it'll burn the piston seal. Don't leave them cocked for long periods, either, especially if it has a steel spring.

Another never, avoid ANY petroleum based lubricants, and never introduce any oil into the firing chamber/transfer port. This WILL cause detonation, and is another way to damage springs and piston seals. A little silicone grease on the breech seal is all it should need, unless you're willing to learn how to tear it down and do a proper tune-up.

Also, DO NOT USE FIREARMS CLEANING SOLVENT IN AIR GUNS! They seldom need cleaning, and when they do, a pull through patch with a little Goo Gone is all you need, weed whacker line makes a great pull through. No brushes, ever, and if you clean it once a year, you're probably overdoing it. And be prepared for the accuracy to fall off after cleaning, it typically takes 50-100 rounds to re-season the barrel.

Toss the scope, it's crap, if it isn't broken already, it will be shortly. As to your poor accuracy, do a Google search on "artillery hold". Springers typically don't do well off a rest, and a firm grip like you'd use with a centerfire rifle will yield less than acceptable results as well. They're also very particular about forearm support, experiment with different positions fore and aft. In general, the lightest touch possible will yield the best results.

Usually not much you can do about the triggers on the cheaper springers, although they do smooth out some with use. If you're more mechanically inclined, you could try tinkering with springs and shims, but that will depend on the particular trigger in your gun, some respond better than others. Although more expensive than it should be, it's still in the cheap springer class, you'd need to spend a little more to get a decent trigger, and quite a bit more to get a truly good one. Oh, and don't expect a springer to have a trigger like a PCP, there's a huge difference in the forces involved. Hope that's some help, but if you have some specific questions, feel free to PM me. Later.

Dave
Wow, great reply. I receive it with gratitude. Answered stuff I wouldn't think to ask.

I'm aware of nice air rifles and kinda stay away; I don't wanna get sucked too far into the hobby yet.

I don't think my expectations are too high at 20-30 yrds. I haven't done any of your nevers' and no-nos'; will stick with average grn. lose the scope, and break it in.

I was trying the steady rest to get the zero as good as I could, I'll work on supporting it naturally if it'll help tighten up the group.

I'm okay with the trigger and smooth, just DANG it's strong. I'm not gonna try cracking into a $100 rifle messing with shims and springs; I can consider something better in future.

yeah thx again for being there.
 
I don't think my expectations are too high at 20-30 yrds.

I agree. I'm only shooting half that distance but can hold a 1" group at 16yds. The problem I have is my group POI changes every other day it seems and I'm not certain why yet. Ive tried the artillery hold, and Ive tried holding it tight (like a centerfire...).... I find the POI between the two is different but I get a tighter 1" group with a tight hold. But while I need to experiment more with the artillery hold its still being influenced with the trigger hand, consistency is key. I think with a tight hold is each day the 'tightness' is inconsistent as Ive found the first shot is the one that's always off then the next one is on as I remember to tighten my hold more. Mines a gas piston, but I hear these airguns are a bear to dial in because of the forward recoil. Somedays I just cant get the same hold as the last so I put it away for the day and the next day Im on again. My mood affects this part of it too. My trigger pull is the worst Ive ever had too but I don't have an expensive high end airgun, but like yours its got a lot of velocity.

And if yours came with a Centerfire brand scope yeah Id plan on replacing it. Youd think theyd at least pair an airgun with an airgun rated scope but mine didnt. Eventually the crosshairs fell apart, and its gradual too... so it takes a while wondering why you cant control your group as it slowly gets worse over time.
 
I agree. I'm only shooting half that distance but can hold a 1" group at 16yds. The problem I have is my group POI changes every other day it seems and I'm not certain why yet. Ive tried the artillery hold, and Ive tried holding it tight (like a centerfire...).... I find the POI between the two is different but I get a tighter 1" group with a tight hold. But while I need to experiment more with the artillery hold its still being influenced with the trigger hand, consistency is key. I think with a tight hold is each day the 'tightness' is inconsistent as Ive found the first shot is the one that's always off then the next one is on as I remember to tighten my hold more. Mines a gas piston, but I hear these airguns are a bear to dial in because of the forward recoil. Somedays I just cant get the same hold as the last so I put it away for the day and the next day Im on again. My mood affects this part of it too. My trigger pull is the worst Ive ever had too but I don't have an expensive high end airgun, but like yours its got a lot of velocity.

And if yours came with a Centerfire brand scope yeah Id plan on replacing it. Youd think theyd at least pair an airgun with an airgun rated scope but mine didnt. Eventually the crosshairs fell apart, and its gradual too... so it takes a while wondering why you cant control your group as it slowly gets worse over time.
Thanks for the change..
Artillery hold is my homework now. Borrow a scope I know that works. Good luck shooting...
 
Ruger Yukon magnum.177 cal
Ruger 3-9-32 scope (real)
About 50-60 feet
Caldwell bench full rest
Between 1000-1200 manufacturers spec. Fastest with alloy pellets

Pellets tried
H&N rabbit magnums 15 grn
Winchester alloy max 4.5 grn
Premier pointed lead 7.4 grn
And another polymer point thing 5-6-grn
So,.... many
Some cast or cut better than others

Very random 3 inch "groups" all over the place. May get 2-3 pellets to think I'm good now. But then another random 2-3 shots. Trigger is heavier than any other type of gun I've shot. 10-15 pounds .... more it feels but I'm not sure at all.
I'd imagine much better from this thing. My .25 Hatsan Airtac shoots like a rimfire at close range.

Bad scope?
Shaky shooter?
Bad barrel?
Or am I expecting too much from Ruger?
Thx
Is that 1000-1200 FPS? If so I would be using the heaviest pellet I could possibly get (make sure it's dome shaped). I would expect something that velocity to literally be all over the place. Please excuse if fps is not what u meant.
 
Is that 1000-1200 FPS? If so I would be using the heaviest pellet I could possibly get (make sure it's dome shaped). I would expect something that velocity to literally be all over the place. Please excuse if fps is not what u meant.
Yes FPS,
Bought it with the branding of like 1270....1250...12something big on box. Reading the finer print it *with alloy pellets **** but a lower FPS for a standard pellet used in same rifle. I was okay with that. 1000 is what I'm usually looking for. Someone here said that's marketing non-sense which I can agree with.
 
This is from Amazon but it's close enough to what I got at big5 last summer. Hehehehe I paid a much better price.... bought scope separately

B3D94282-E0F3-4F9F-9AC7-89D650677C18.jpeg
 
Its marketing... mostly. I mean, I wanted a powerful air rifle and velocity has to do with that. But so far I cant even find alloy pellets light enough to hit that velocity. My rifle is marketed "up to" 1100fps, but so far the pellets I can readily buy chrono between 757 and 800fps between 14.3g and 12.81g.
 
I agree. I'm only shooting half that distance but can hold a 1" group at 16yds. The problem I have is my group POI changes every other day it seems and I'm not certain why yet. Ive tried the artillery hold, and Ive tried holding it tight (like a centerfire...).... I find the POI between the two is different but I get a tighter 1" group with a tight hold. But while I need to experiment more with the artillery hold its still being influenced with the trigger hand, consistency is key. I think with a tight hold is each day the 'tightness' is inconsistent as Ive found the first shot is the one that's always off then the next one is on as I remember to tighten my hold more. Mines a gas piston, but I hear these airguns are a bear to dial in because of the forward recoil. Somedays I just cant get the same hold as the last so I put it away for the day and the next day Im on again. My mood affects this part of it too. My trigger pull is the worst Ive ever had too but I don't have an expensive high end airgun, but like yours its got a lot of velocity.

And if yours came with a Centerfire brand scope yeah Id plan on replacing it. Youd think theyd at least pair an airgun with an airgun rated scope but mine didnt. Eventually the crosshairs fell apart, and its gradual too... so it takes a while wondering why you cant control your group as it slowly gets worse over time.
I had MUCH better luck with regular rifle hold than "artillery" hold. I even shot back to back with numerous trials and It wasn't even close. My suggestion would be to clean it with goo gone or whatever and then shoot x pellets of the same exact type until it settles down. Repeat until u find a pellet it likes (handn field target special, field target trophy, Jsb exact are some recommendations but every gun is different). Then you can evaluate accuracy. My personal experience with a few springers including one gas piston is similar to yours. I think there is an inherent inconsistency to some of the springers. But I've never owned a high end air arms or similar though so I can't comment on those. I moved to PCP and CO2 and never looked back. I could never get that kind of consistency from springers but again I wasn't shooting the high end models. Give me a co2 or pcp with a lothar Walther barrel and I'm happy.
 
I had MUCH better luck with regular rifle hold than "artillery" hold. I even shot back to back with numerous trials and It wasn't even close. My suggestion would be to clean it with goo gone or whatever and then shoot x pellets of the same exact type until it settles down. Repeat until u find a pellet it likes (handn field target special, field target trophy, Jsb exact are some recommendations but every gun is different). Then you can evaluate accuracy. My personal experience with a few springers including one gas piston is similar to yours. I think there is an inherent inconsistency to some of the springers. But I've never owned a high end air arms or similar though so I can't comment on those. I moved to PCP and CO2 and never looked back. I could never get that kind of consistency from springers but again I wasn't shooting the high end models. Give me a co2 or pcp with a lothar Walther barrel and I'm happy.

Thank you for that note, cause all I ever hear is use an artillery hold... and its never improved my grouping. (interestingly I recently read somewhere not to even use it for center-fire rifles...)

Mine isn't a high end model, but I wont buy another piston and any future airguns will be PCP.
 
I have a Ruger 1200 Magnum air rifle in .177. The worst thing about this gun is the cheap rear sight. I believe it would be great if I could find a solid adjustable rear sight to go on it. The fiber optics are nice just not solid. Just my .02
 
Is that not a "Gamo style" airgun? If so, there "may" be a far better trigger at CharlieDaTuna - it would depend on how close it emulates the Gamo.


Just Wednesday, I shot a Gamo Shadow 1000 to zero the not-yet-broken scope. The range was 67 feet as it turned out. I was able to get a few 3/4" 3-shot groups, but the trigger was, as expected, awful. I sat in a chair and laid the fore end on my left fist (atop a sawhorse), with thumb and left trigger finger cradling the fore end for side-to-side stability. As well, it provided a bit of shock absorption as that big spring will bounce the gun off of a harder surface. Right elbow on right upper leg. My heartbeat was the biggest shake going on.

As taught long ago, I took a couple of deep breaths, let the last breath halfway out, held it, focused on aim and squeezed. My last three shots punched the 3/4" orange dot through the target, so I stopped zeroing at that point. I might set the chrono up and see what velocity it is obtaining with different pellets.

As to petroleum lubes (not!), think of your airgun's chamber like the cylinder of a diesel engine. The rapid compression of air by the Diesel engine's raises the temperature of the air/petroleum (in a Diesel) high enough to combust it with no other ignition source. A Diesel has heavy cylinder walls. The airgun, not so much.

If it will ever stop raining or threatening to rain, we'll see how it goes.
 
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