Ruger 10/22 receiver scope mount holes stripped

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by slicediceputinrice, May 16, 2012.

  1. slicediceputinrice

    SE Portland
    Active Member

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    two of the four holes (the ones closest to the barrel) for the scope mount on my ruger receiver are stripped, can I fix it with the same size tap? what is the tap size for those holes? or would I need to use a larger tap? can I just drop the rifle off and have you fix it for a brick of ammo or something?
  2. chainsaw

    East side of Or.
    Active Member

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    You'll have to drill and tap larger holes in your receiver and drill larger holes in your scope mount.ask your nearest gunsmith what size screws are standard size for guns.If I remember right they are 6/48 threads.drill and tap to the next size up.
  3. deadshot2

    NW Quadrant WA State
    Well-Known Member

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    Going to a larger screw size might not work well with some scope mounts. There are steel inserts that one can install that will restore the original threads. It requires drilling the hole oversized and threading with the proper tap so this "wire like" insert can be threaded into the larger hole.

    If you have an industrial fastener supplier nearby (check yellow pages) you can obtain these in standard thread sizes. Most firearms use an oddball thread pitch but it's still a #6 screw. Just use a standard #6 fine thread and you can get compatible thread inserts.

    Another option is a little more "hillbilly" but it DOES work fine. Do like a dentist does when he fills a cavity. Take a real small ball type burr on a dremel tool and clean out the holes, making them a little larger at the bottom. De-grease the holes several times using good degreaser. Clean the threads of the scope mount screws and then apply some Kiwi neutral colored shoe polish to the threads. "Polish" them after the wax dries with a piece of T-shirt cloth by threading them in and out of the cloth pinched on each side of the screw. You won't wipe all the wax off and only a thin amount needs to remain. Do the same to the scope mount, holes and bottom especially.

    Now for the "filling". Using the strongest Steel Epoxy available, I prefer Devcon 10110 but the slow cure J-B Weld is good too (not the quick cure). Mix up enough to fill the threads of the screws and the holes in the receiver. With a tooth pick work some epoxy over the degreased surfaces inside the hole. Not too much, just enough to cover the prepped area. Then do likewise with the screws. Then assemble the scope base on the action, inserting the "gooped up" screws. This should be done with the good scope mount in place if it's a two piece and if a one piece, secure the rear screws. Mount the scope on the base and secure to the rifle with some surgical tubing around the scope and action (or inner tube bands, bungee cord, etc). Clean any excess off with a q-tip and acetone or a tooth pick. If you didn't get too generous, there shouldn't be much excess.

    When cured, then using the best screwdriver you have for the screw head, or allen/torqx wrench, carefully break the screws loose. If they won't budge without causing damage to the head, just hold an electric soldering iron to the head for a few minutes and try again. The heat will help break the bond.

    This last step is really only necessary if you plan on removing the mount to change it so it could be omitted totally if all you want to do is secure the scope mount.

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