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Im not looking at carbon fiber. your right they belong on motorcycles. Steel is the way to go, flutted or not? no snake fluting. what about porting'muzzle brake for quick follow ups?
 
The muzzle jump on a .22LR isn't that bad to need a muzzle break. Another cool factor...in my opinion.

Ported barrels are cool, but I think if you're going to be using a steel barrel (bull target) it's going to be heavy enough that it's not going to jump much.

Fluted is nice looking, and it helps take some of the weight off. It does increase the surface area of the barrel to help cooling...but my feeling is that it mainly is for looks...and a little weight.
 
Don't know if it's been mentioned (didn't scroll through all 3 pages of replies) but a polyurethane bolt stop is another mod that's cheap and makes alot of difference to me in the feel of the rifle. Green Mountain often has overstocks etc for sale too. Somebody mentioned rimfirecentral, that's where you'll find the specifics you're looking for.
 
Rimfirecentral.com will answer all your questions. Here is a pic of my personal 10/22 which I built a few years ago while recouperating from a couple surgeries. It's funny how a $200 rifle can quickly become a $800 rifle! :D




RatAttackTack005.jpg

Yeah, it's a lefty!
 
I'm working on a left hand charging 10/22 right now... :winkkiss:

I've built about 10 or 12 for myself(not to mention one's for other folks) and find that the best way to build one(at least for me) was simply to experiment. I'm not really into paying the big bucks for trigger kits. Especially right off the bat. So, I usually do some sear and trigger work myself, then, if I don't like the result, I buy a kit. So far, I've only bought one aftermarket trigger though...

Bolt buffers make a huge difference. I use the Teffer Buffer in all my guns. Holds up better than any I have used(safe for a custom one I had made with a small steel pin inside the urethane).

Modding the bolt by polishing, relieving, chamfering, deburring, etc. makes one of the biggest differences. If you can accurately square up the bolt face and reset the head spacing, your guns reliability will go up in spades.

I've had one carbon fiber barrel and it was great. Very accurate and does not droop in a free float situation like steel will from the weight.

My current favorite barrel is a Tactical Solutions barrel that has a chrome moly sleeve(barrel) with an aluminum shroud for a light weight bull barrel that is pretty damned accurate.

I'd really like one of their X-Ring receivers but I'd probably end up with a $2500 "10/22" with zero Ruger parts(which is ok with me)!
 
Im going with a screw in barrel and a wood stock. the stock will be cut and two plates made so it can be split (Take Down).Ive been doing alot of measuring and comparison on other aluminum reicevers and I believe that after machining the barrel lug off the end of the reciever and useing a screw in barrel it will be safe. there is enough materieal in front of the mag guide to install a bolt for the rear stock. I will have mount the front part of the stock to the barrel. I think aluminum barrel drilled and tapped will do the trick.
I will square up the bolt its a little off, got the charging handle and guid/spring magniesium and its looks and feels good. ordered a recoil buffer and extended mag release. thats my thoughts and progress thanks for all your ideas and advice
Earl
 
do almost any bull barrel, hogue stock, and a nice scope. (depends on its purpose) if its punching paper get a fancy flat bottomed wood stock. carrying it you will want the hogue with a nice sling. if it is close range use a red dot or reflex holographic sight. it its 50-200 yards you will want a nice scope with some zoom, and maybe adjustable paralax

Hogue stock
ER SHAW bull Barrel
Volquartsen Extractor, and trigger guts, and a auto bolt release.
Cheap Red Dot or....
Tasco Varmint 2.5-10X42 or the Tasco Varmint 6-24X44 (cheap, but HUGE bang for the buck with adjustable EVERYTHING)

if your going to build one there is a guy in Roseburg that is amazing with these that will get the part for less then you can find online. install it, and even show you how to use service it, and change the part out if need be... NO CHARGE! he is at the gun shows in SO. OR, and is easy to deal with. if you interested PM me, and I will get you his name and number.... it is worth the call.
 

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