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Ruger 10/22 Project
- Thread Starter cyclesurvival
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I like Green Mt. barrels. Rimfire Technologies does a nice trigger as well as some other parts. Rimfirecentral.com is a wealth of 10/22 knowledge. There are a lot of parts you can make yourself and other do it yourself mods.
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- Thread Starter
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I like green mountain to, I have one on my Thompson muzzle loader and love it. been looking in Midways and Brownells catalogs and Im trying to make up my mind.
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Barrels and new stocks seem to be the regular items added to the 10/22. There are several brands depending on what kind of use its going to see. A lightweight hunting gun may do well with a magnum research carbon fiber barrel. A benchrest or comp gun, where weight can be a good thing, you might want to look at some of the heavier all steel (blued or stainless) barrels. If you're on a budget (and aren't we all these days), look into Butler Creek and Green Mountain barrels. If you're looking at a serious competition gun, start moving up the supplier food chain (start to get into blanks and even having the receiver threaded, rather than using the standard v-block). I find no reason to thread a flash suppressor or muzzle break on a .22, but to each their own. If you do this, look into the add-ons that fit flush with the barrels. You'll have to pay to have your barrel threaded (or buy one that's pre-threaded, tactical solutions sells pre-threaded I think), but it looks slick and clean when its done.
Next would come your stock. If you like wood, there are lots of options to replace the ugly beech stock that it normally has. Most seem to be laminated. I haven't seen any better or worse in quality, most seem to be more a style preference. Boyd's, Fajen, Richard's microfit, etc. all make excellent 10/22 stocks. If you like synthetic, you can go with the over-molded rubber stock that Hogue makes. It works particularly well in the wet side of Oregon and Washington. I think its a bit ugly, but very functional.
With all that work, why stop there. The best 10/22's don't have much Ruger left in them when they're done (short of the receiver, not much at all). I like the oversize mag release that several companies put out. they make mag changes very quick. The entire trigger group (including the housing if you like) can be replaced with parts from different manufacturers like volquartsen and power custom. Both seem to make good products. And a good trigger goes a long way with this gun. I've shot 10/22's with parts from both, and both were a lot of fun.
Beyond the trigger parts, you get into scope and mounts. Gladly, this is a .22 with the accompanying recoil (that is to say, not much). So you don't need a 2000$ scope made to withstand a .50 BMG. One of my favorite scopes for the 10/22 is the BSA Sweet .22 series. They work very well and are not overly expensive. Do mount it with a good set of rings to a solid base though. I like to replace the factory scope base that came from Ruger with something a bit beefier.
Magazines are another consideration. The ones I've had the most luck with are the factory 10 round rotary mags. They've lasted longer than my hi-cap steel and hot-lips mags and have been more reliable. I've seen (although not personally tried or used) some competitors glue nylon blocks to the bottom of the mags to aid in changing them quicker in competition. Seems like a good solid idea.
The bottom line, is that you can go cheap or you can go all out. You can do it all yourself, or hire a competent gunsmith to do the work for you. You can make it a great gun to shoot either way, just have fun with it.
Long answer I suppose, but hopefully it helped.
Next would come your stock. If you like wood, there are lots of options to replace the ugly beech stock that it normally has. Most seem to be laminated. I haven't seen any better or worse in quality, most seem to be more a style preference. Boyd's, Fajen, Richard's microfit, etc. all make excellent 10/22 stocks. If you like synthetic, you can go with the over-molded rubber stock that Hogue makes. It works particularly well in the wet side of Oregon and Washington. I think its a bit ugly, but very functional.
With all that work, why stop there. The best 10/22's don't have much Ruger left in them when they're done (short of the receiver, not much at all). I like the oversize mag release that several companies put out. they make mag changes very quick. The entire trigger group (including the housing if you like) can be replaced with parts from different manufacturers like volquartsen and power custom. Both seem to make good products. And a good trigger goes a long way with this gun. I've shot 10/22's with parts from both, and both were a lot of fun.
Beyond the trigger parts, you get into scope and mounts. Gladly, this is a .22 with the accompanying recoil (that is to say, not much). So you don't need a 2000$ scope made to withstand a .50 BMG. One of my favorite scopes for the 10/22 is the BSA Sweet .22 series. They work very well and are not overly expensive. Do mount it with a good set of rings to a solid base though. I like to replace the factory scope base that came from Ruger with something a bit beefier.
Magazines are another consideration. The ones I've had the most luck with are the factory 10 round rotary mags. They've lasted longer than my hi-cap steel and hot-lips mags and have been more reliable. I've seen (although not personally tried or used) some competitors glue nylon blocks to the bottom of the mags to aid in changing them quicker in competition. Seems like a good solid idea.
The bottom line, is that you can go cheap or you can go all out. You can do it all yourself, or hire a competent gunsmith to do the work for you. You can make it a great gun to shoot either way, just have fun with it.
Long answer I suppose, but hopefully it helped.
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Honestly, the best thing I can think of for you to do is go to www.rimfirecentral.com and sign up. There is some incredible info over there that covers literally everything that can and has been done to 10/22's. Amazing stuff.
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- Thread Starter
- #7
I want to know if anyone has used specific parts, there are hundreds of parts and companys but Im looking for a good combo. I have built one using butler creek barrel and hogue stock but never did the internals. so anyone with a combo that has worked for them please be specific and let me know. IM leaning toward a green mountain barrel.
Tahnks guys
Tahnks guys
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Volquartsen extractor is a must. I have used a tubb 2000 and Rimfire Technologies guide rod spring. Those are the first things I would change for reliability reasons. If you do things in steps it make it easier to see the effect of a single part or mod.
bnr32gtr said it; go to rimfirecentral.com ! You'll learn a lot there.
Here's some specifics on one I built;
-Revolution Yukon thumbhole laminate stock.
-Green Mtn barrel, 18", Bentz, blued, fluted.
-VQ internals along with Christie's auto bolt release, Raven Eye Custom oversize reciever pins, and Tuffer Buffer bolt buffer.
-Raven Eye Custom hex takedown screw.
-RT adjustable V-block.
This is a real tack driver with just the typical off-the-shelf Rem. and American Eagle plated ammo and it gets better with match ammo. Hope this helps
Here's some specifics on one I built;
-Revolution Yukon thumbhole laminate stock.
-Green Mtn barrel, 18", Bentz, blued, fluted.
-VQ internals along with Christie's auto bolt release, Raven Eye Custom oversize reciever pins, and Tuffer Buffer bolt buffer.
-Raven Eye Custom hex takedown screw.
-RT adjustable V-block.
This is a real tack driver with just the typical off-the-shelf Rem. and American Eagle plated ammo and it gets better with match ammo. Hope this helps
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I did a few mods to mine, basically following the "Appleseed" model:
-drilled a hole in the receiver that allows me to clean from the breech end
-filed out the bolt release so that it can be operated one-handed
-replaced the metal bolt buffer with a synthetic buffer
-polished the surfaces of the bolt that come in contact with the receiver
-polished the trigger group components according to an online tutorial
-replaced the factory sights with some "Tech-sight" peep sights & red loc-tite
-bought one of those Hogue overmold stocks... wish I had gone with a laminated wood.
-put a cotton web M14 sling on it with Uncle Mike's swivels
-put the threaded plugs back in the reciever with red loc-tite
I have been very pleased with the changes. Unavailability of Blazer .22 bulk is the only reason I haven't shot it much recently.
pic of the stick:
When I bought the rifle, my groups at 25 and 50 yds prone unsupported were always about the size of a gallon paint can lid. It took a little testing to see what brand of ammo it liked best, and the mods I listed above to close the groups down. Now I can shoot groups like this prone unsupported all day at 25 yds:
-drilled a hole in the receiver that allows me to clean from the breech end
-filed out the bolt release so that it can be operated one-handed
-replaced the metal bolt buffer with a synthetic buffer
-polished the surfaces of the bolt that come in contact with the receiver
-polished the trigger group components according to an online tutorial
-replaced the factory sights with some "Tech-sight" peep sights & red loc-tite
-bought one of those Hogue overmold stocks... wish I had gone with a laminated wood.
-put a cotton web M14 sling on it with Uncle Mike's swivels
-put the threaded plugs back in the reciever with red loc-tite
I have been very pleased with the changes. Unavailability of Blazer .22 bulk is the only reason I haven't shot it much recently.
pic of the stick:
When I bought the rifle, my groups at 25 and 50 yds prone unsupported were always about the size of a gallon paint can lid. It took a little testing to see what brand of ammo it liked best, and the mods I listed above to close the groups down. Now I can shoot groups like this prone unsupported all day at 25 yds:
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- Thread Starter
- #12
Nice stick speelyei
good groups for open sights,so far the barrel looks like a green mountain, with a vol triger kit, I think im going to get a new bolt release and new bolt lever and spring.
good groups for open sights,so far the barrel looks like a green mountain, with a vol triger kit, I think im going to get a new bolt release and new bolt lever and spring.
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be sure and post some pics. Sounds like it'll be another tack-driver, and it's always interesting how individual they come out, even built from all the same parts.
I'd like to build another 10/22 soon, but we'll see. I can't find ammo for the one I've got.
I'd like to build another 10/22 soon, but we'll see. I can't find ammo for the one I've got.
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- Thread Starter
- #14
SO here is my first Gunkote job, looks good hope the finnish last as long as Baking laquer.
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The trigger group and receiver look good!
Rimfire Central is an excellent resource.
I'm another one for the Green Mountain Barrel. It's a great value and it's a shooter. In the light-weight category, I do really like the WhistlePig, and Magestic Arms Alumalite, with the Tactical Solutions Barrels coming in close.
As far as bolt work goes, http://www.ct-precision.com is probably one of the favorites for doing 10/22 work, especially bolt work. Price is fair and the work is great!
I do like the nylon buffers. I bought mine from WeaponKraft...and some other parts.
I like the feel of the Hogue Overmold, but on mine causes my factory mags to stick. Someday I will turn a piece of $$$ 2x4 into a 10/22 stock.
Rimfire Central is an excellent resource.
I'm another one for the Green Mountain Barrel. It's a great value and it's a shooter. In the light-weight category, I do really like the WhistlePig, and Magestic Arms Alumalite, with the Tactical Solutions Barrels coming in close.
As far as bolt work goes, http://www.ct-precision.com is probably one of the favorites for doing 10/22 work, especially bolt work. Price is fair and the work is great!
I do like the nylon buffers. I bought mine from WeaponKraft...and some other parts.
I like the feel of the Hogue Overmold, but on mine causes my factory mags to stick. Someday I will turn a piece of $$$ 2x4 into a 10/22 stock.
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Here's my 2 cents worth, cyclesurvival.
First, I think it is a true & fair assumption that the Ruger 10/22 probably has more aftermarket accessories built for it, by more different companies, than any other firearm built!
That said.
Understand that it is a pretty competitive business and just about all the items that are sold for them, work very well.
One barrel better than another, or one trigger group better than another??
Most will share good experiences with them all.
While not always 100% true, I've found that price has been a good measurement of quality.
Valquartsen products are generally the most expensive, and work well. Butler Creek is generally the least expensive, and work well. So if you use those two products as a scale, all that's really relivant depends on what you are prepared to spend, but keep in mind the 'cool factor'. If something looks cool, it will likely cost more, but not necessary work any better!!
Sorry, maybe ya got a nickel's worth.
Frog.
Last Edited:
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- Thread Starter
- #17
Thanks Frog and Grizz, I think that most of the work i'm going to do my self with the help of midway and brownells, trigger/sear kit with springs probably wolf, recoil spring and titanium bolt handle, going to jewel the bolt, stone and polish firring pin, hammer spring and spacers, recoil buffer, and then theres the barrel hugh price difference from butlercreek to hart barrels so thats up in the air, though about a threaded barrel also. it might take me a few months to gather all the parts and do the work. IM going to take my time as I want this to be a one holer. so if anyone want to put in there nickels worth by al means do so.
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Yo cyclesurvival....
I've got a couple of things you might be interested in....
I have a Leapers Scope. Red/Green reticle illumination, range finder and eye focus adjustment 3 - 9x40. It's brand new, and still in it's box. It had been given to me as gift at Christmas but I had already bought one. It's perfect for a 10/22 and I'll let it go for $55.00. It's part number is SCP-394AOMDLTS so you can check it out on the web if you like.
I also have a Butler Creek 'SS' 22 Bull Barrel. I sprayed it with Multi-coats of LoSheen Black, which can easily be removed if you wanted to go to the natural silver stainless. It has about 700 Rounds through it and I'll sell it for $100.00.
Stay loose,
Frog.
I've got a couple of things you might be interested in....
I have a Leapers Scope. Red/Green reticle illumination, range finder and eye focus adjustment 3 - 9x40. It's brand new, and still in it's box. It had been given to me as gift at Christmas but I had already bought one. It's perfect for a 10/22 and I'll let it go for $55.00. It's part number is SCP-394AOMDLTS so you can check it out on the web if you like.
I also have a Butler Creek 'SS' 22 Bull Barrel. I sprayed it with Multi-coats of LoSheen Black, which can easily be removed if you wanted to go to the natural silver stainless. It has about 700 Rounds through it and I'll sell it for $100.00.
Stay loose,
Frog.
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- Thread Starter
- #19
Thanks Frog I will have to wait, I just bought a couple of firearms and need to get my Oxnate 84 tank set up so I can blue stainless. as you know chemicals dont come cheep. but hey if I get some trading done I might be interested.
Earl
Earl
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Frog makes a good point.
You have to balance that with certain parts. For instance, I agree that VQ and BC make carbon fiber barrels. I would not recommend that anyone get a CF barrel from BC if they care about accuracy. The BCCF is notorious for changing POI as the barrel Warms up, or weather temp. Your factory barrel shoots better. But the contrast are the steel barrels from VQ, BC, GM, etc. Shoot pretty good.
There is the cool factor and then there is that tipping point between cost and performance
You have to balance that with certain parts. For instance, I agree that VQ and BC make carbon fiber barrels. I would not recommend that anyone get a CF barrel from BC if they care about accuracy. The BCCF is notorious for changing POI as the barrel Warms up, or weather temp. Your factory barrel shoots better. But the contrast are the steel barrels from VQ, BC, GM, etc. Shoot pretty good.
There is the cool factor and then there is that tipping point between cost and performance
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