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It's a little heavier than a standard 5.56. At least the Rock Creek barrels are. I have a Rock Creek Wylde and a couple standard 5.56 barrels and all of my free float hand guard barrel nuts will fit the OD on the 5.56 chamber, but not the .223 Wylde. The OD of the chamber is thicker and longer(giggity).
 
Yes, chamber dimensions are different. As far as accuracy goes, my Wylde was intended to take advantage of the inherent accuracy of .223 while still being able to chamber the 5.56. Wylde is a little bit more accurate than 5.56 but not as accurate as .223.

5.56 is a more powerful cartridge with factory ammo. IME less accurate tho.
 
Sweet an invitation to brag about my favorite toy! You asked for it:D

I went into this build with the goal of 3/4 MOA at 100m with 5-600m proficiency, but without being too heavy/bulky and sacrificing mobility. like Diamondback said the Mark 12 SPR is the perfect base to go off of.
This gun has proven 1/2 moa capable off the bench, or bipod, but I can also easily shed over 3 pounds by quick detaching both the scope and bipod, and have a platform that can be comfortably carried around and used for CQB if need be.

It weighs 7.5 pounds naked, and a little over 10.5 lbs with the scope, bipod and mag. My last group (pictured) was 5 shots into about a 1/2" hole at 100yards with cheap 55 grain fmjbt(m193 ball) ammo. I took the two shots in the pic (that aren't touching) with a cold oily barrel just to check my zero, then I walked up to the target to see where they hit because they were in the black, and couldn't tell for sure.. then I came back and shot the rest. Its capable of even better with match grade ammo.

IMG_2886.JPG IMG_2896.JPG IMG_3020.JPG




Barrel, Trigger, and Optics are where your accuracy comes from, after that.. solid milspec or better parts and you're golden.

Here is a breakdown of the parts I used to get what I consider excellent accuracy, and after removing the excess NiB from the extractor pin(was causing failure to eject during rapid fire) It has been 100% reliable.

I highly recommend this barrel. It's a Ballistics Advantage Premium series 18" SPR profile 1:8 twist chambered in .223 wylde. Mine is Stainless but they also make it in 4150 chrome moly steel. It's the same exact profile as the Douglas barrel they use on the MK12 and only half the price. They say Stainless is slightly more accurate, but will wear out faster than 4150. I carried both around the shop I bought it from for about an hour before settling on SS.
I tried several triggers, and I decided on the POF single stage 4.5 lb. trigger. 4.5lbs is plenty light for me, but more importantly it is a consistent 4.5lbs with 0 creep, and it breaks like a proverbial glass rod. plus it came with $30 KNS anti walk pins.
For Optics I just recently upgraded from a decent Bushnell AR optics 3-12, to a 6-18x44 Vortex crossfire2... Its no Leupold TS-30 but I like it a lot. It's sitting on an American Defense AD recon qd mount. I also run a set of 45 deg. offset buis for cqb.
I made sure to get a high quality matched set of recievers. The Mega Arms set I ended up with has such a tight fit that before I had the barrel and buttstock installed for leverage, It was extremely difficult to pry them apart. I personally prefer forged recievers over billet because they are lighter, stronger, and cheaper.
The BCG is an Anderson, treated with NIB One nickle boron coating. Initially it needed some fine tuning(see above) but since then it's been perfect... Super slick, and compared to my other bolts, extremely easy to clean. The BA barrel has a NiB barrel extension so they mate up very well together.
I splurged a little and bought a Fortis Hammer charge handle and an F1 "slant" muzzle brake because I thought they were cool, but they are both very high quality, and function as good as they look. Also got V7 titanium TD pins, a Magpul BAD lever, and a few other "enhanced" parts that do nothing for proformance, but they sure look good.
I am still shopping for handguards and butt stocks. Matrix Arms are great rails for the money... but I have the same exact rail on another AR, and want something different for this gun. I have expensive taste and a small budget, so I have to wait until something I like comes along that I can afford, or better yet trade up to. I have a plethora of nice butstocks in my inventory, but none of them are fitting into my vision.

This setup works great for me... I am by no means what you would consider a "professional" shooter, or gun smith. I have no formal training at either, so take my advice and recommendations at your own risk.

brought to you by your friendly neighborhood Mygrainman :s0094:
 
Sweet an invitation to brag about my favorite toy! You asked for it:D

I went into this build with the goal of 3/4 MOA at 100m with 5-600m proficiency, but without being too heavy/bulky and sacrificing mobility. like Diamondback said the Mark 12 SPR is the perfect base to go off of.
This gun has proven 1/2 moa capable off the bench, or bipod, but I can also easily shed over 3 pounds by quick detaching both the scope and bipod, and have a platform that can be comfortably carried around and used for CQB if need be.

It weighs 7.5 pounds naked, and a little over 10.5 lbs with the scope, bipod and mag. My last group (pictured) was 5 shots into about a 1/2" hole at 100yards with cheap 55 grain fmjbt(m193 ball) ammo. I took the two shots in the pic (that aren't touching) with a cold oily barrel just to check my zero, then I walked up to the target to see where they hit because they were in the black, and couldn't tell for sure.. then I came back and shot the rest. Its capable of even better with match grade ammo.

View attachment 389605 View attachment 389606 View attachment 389604




Barrel, Trigger, and Optics are where your accuracy comes from, after that.. solid milspec or better parts and you're golden.

Here is a breakdown of the parts I used to get what I consider excellent accuracy, and after removing the excess NiB from the extractor pin(was causing failure to eject during rapid fire) It has been 100% reliable.

I highly recommend this barrel. It's a Ballistics Advantage Premium series 18" SPR profile 1:8 twist chambered in .223 wylde. Mine is Stainless but they also make it in 4150 chrome moly steel. It's the same exact profile as the Douglas barrel they use on the MK12 and only half the price. They say Stainless is slightly more accurate, but will wear out faster than 4150. I carried both around the shop I bought it from for about an hour before settling on SS.
I tried several triggers, and I decided on the POF single stage 4.5 lb. trigger. 4.5lbs is plenty light for me, but more importantly it is a consistent 4.5lbs with 0 creep, and it breaks like a proverbial glass rod. plus it came with $30 KNS anti walk pins.
For Optics I just recently upgraded from a decent Bushnell AR optics 3-12, to a 6-18x44 Vortex crossfire2... Its no Leupold TS-30 but I like it a lot. It's sitting on an American Defense AD recon qd mount. I also run a set of 45 deg. offset buis for cqb.
I made sure to get a high quality matched set of recievers. The Mega Arms set I ended up with has such a tight fit that before I had the barrel and buttstock installed for leverage, It was extremely difficult to pry them apart. I personally prefer forged recievers over billet because they are lighter, stronger, and cheaper.
The BCG is an Anderson, treated with NIB One nickle boron coating. Initially it needed some fine tuning(see above) but since then it's been perfect... Super slick, and compared to my other bolts, extremely easy to clean. The BA barrel has a NiB barrel extension so they mate up very well together.
I splurged a little and bought a Fortis Hammer charge handle and an F1 "slant" muzzle brake because I thought they were cool, but they are both very high quality, and function as good as they look. Also got V7 titanium TD pins, a Magpul BAD lever, and a few other "enhanced" parts that do nothing for proformance, but they sure look good.
I am still shopping for handguards and butt stocks. Matrix Arms are great rails for the money... but I have the same exact rail on another AR, and want something different for this gun. I have expensive taste and a small budget, so I have to wait until something I like comes along that I can afford, or better yet trade up to. I have a plethora of nice butstocks in my inventory, but none of them are fitting into my vision.

This setup works great for me... I am by no means what you would consider a "professional" shooter, or gun smith. I have no formal training at either, so take my advice and recommendations at your own risk.

brought to you by your friendly neighborhood Mygrainman :s0094:
Take my money!
 
To follow up, I hit 800 with this rig:

Noveske Gen 1 N4 lower
Noveske Upper
Noveske 18" 1/7 SPR barrel
Noveske gas block and intermediate length tube
Melonite BCG from Curt's
Alpha 15" M-Lok rail
Magpul ACS stock and MOE K2 grip
Geissele SSA-E trigger
Vortex Viper HST 4-14x44
BCM looped trigger guard
Harris BiPod (photo shows a different one)
BCM Gunfighter Medium CH

FullSizeRender (20).jpg
 
And not to argue with @Mygrainman but for distance you want a two-stage trigger. Known take-up/staging, then a light easy pull to send the projectile. Single stage belongs in 3-gun, but not for distance.
 
And not to argue with @Mygrainman but for distance you want a two-stage trigger. Known take-up/staging, then a light easy pull to send the projectile. Single stage belongs in 3-gun, but not for distance.
I have very little experience with two stage triggers. it may be I'd like one better myself. The POF was just the best of what I tried.
 
I have very little experience with two stage triggers. it may be I'd like one better myself. The POF was just the best of what I tried.

Oh man, single stage triggers feel so nice for speed. But at a distance, shooting prone or off a rest, having a known take-up and then just a slight pull past the wall makes a huge difference!
 
I played Bass guitar and drums for years, so my fingers are very strong... and fast, which has proven advantages since I really got into shooting the last couple years. The consistency of the break, for me anyway, is more important than a pound or two less pressure. My Savage FVSRs accutrigger is set at about 2.5 which is nothing, and while the 2 lb difference is noticeable, it takes no more effort to pull 4.5. Like I said, I have no experience with 2 stage, but pretravel irritates me... I put those special grip screws in my other ARs with milspec triggers to eliminate as much as possible. I had a Berretta PX4 pistol that had a lot of pretravel and a really light SA brake.. it would surprise me sometimes, and I hated it. If a two stage is anything like that... no thanks. I'd have to try one though. I am a bit of a trigger snob.
 

Not trying to start an argument here but to say a single stage is more accurate at distance isn't correct.
 
I think you may like an AR-10. Larger calibers including the 6.5 Creedmoor, 300 Win Mag, etc. can get you to 500 in no time. Even as someone who doesn't reload but has shot factory and reloaded ammo out of a .223, .308, .300 WM, and many other calibers I can vouch for its effectiveness. You can get a RCBS Rock Chucker press and kit for $288.99 at Cabela's, and they ain't cheap, but especially if you go with an AR-10, but $10 for a box of 20 .223 and anywhere from $20-$30 for a box of larger caliber ammo, that's only 28-29 boxes of .223 or 14 or less boxes of large caliber for the cost of a starter reloading kit. Get primers, different powders, and different bullets and load some ammo. That way, like @bbbass said, you can really tune your groups up.
 

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