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Anyone know a reputable locksmith in Salem that works on gun safes? My Browning safe with a SG 6120 electronic lock went on the fritz tonight. Read troubleshooting online and it appears that I need a locksmith. I press the master combination and just get a click, and it is not a battery issue. Contemplating switching to a dial lock with a key if possible if the lock is detective.
 
If you would, please keep us posted about you issue. How old is your safe?
All I've got at this point is a Sentry 10-GUN with the electronic lock. It also has a key, for if the electronic fails. I've often wondered when looking at other safes with electronics, (which they charge extra for) why they don't have a port for a key also. I feel I really need/want to have QUICK access to my safe and a dial combo lock can't give you that.

I wonder if the smith will ruin your lock, damage the safe, how much to repair/replace components?

Mike
 
OK, I found a locksmith but fortunately I don't need his services today, I got my safe to open.

I decided if I need locksmith services I would call Keyconcepts Locksmith & Master Safecracker. While searching S&Gs website, the lock manufacturer, I found a link to Safe & Vault Technicians Association and searched their website for members in the Salem area and there are only 4 members within 50 miles of Salem.

The S&VTA provides support and training for members and Keyconcepts Locksmith & Master Safecracker website provides additional information regarding their business and experience which gives me confidence in their ability and experience specifically dealing with safes/vaults.

What did I do to get my safe open.
I located and read the troubleshooting guide that the manufacturer provides online. They suggest that with patience and persistance the lock can be opened. I have the persistance part down, but not the patience.

The online troubleshooting guide on S&G's website was helpful.
Problem:
The code is entered, a clicking noise is heard from the lock and the lock does not open.

Cause:
This may be an indication of side bolt pressure being exerted on the lock bolt by the safe boltwork. -or- This may be an indication of a mechanical malfunction of the drive train within the lock itself.

Solution:
If Side bolt pressure is suspected, move the safe handle to the extreme right, then move the handle to the extreme left, now shift handle to the middle (or neutral) position While handle is in the neutral position, re-enter PIN code lock should open. Run your combination and rock your handle back and forth for 6 seconds. Retry procedures 5 - 10 times.

So I rocked the safe this way and that, turned the handle back and fourth many times, continued to input the combination with the handle to the right, to the left and in the middle and after many attempts, the sound of the motor turning was music to my ears. Whatever was caught up internally dislodged and the safe opened.

Now, since I got it open I have to decide the next steps. Leave it or replace the lock, and if I replace the lock, do I replace it with a dial. Most likely, I will replace it with a dial lock and call it good.
 
Nice....Lemme shoot you my address and you can put that in the next post!

Sickening, what the hell's the point then?
 
Take the back off of your safe door and look at the internal workings. Examine the wires and the mechanical locking parts.
Something might be loose or out of adjustment. Take a close look at the locking solenoid. Lubricate all moving parts.
I used HVAC metal tape to tape down all of the wires that go to the key pad. That prevents the wires from being pulled out of the keypad hole by a thief and jumping the locking solenoid.
 

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