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Hey folks, new to the forum. Tried searching the threads for an answer to my question couldn't find what I was looking for so please bear with me. I want to replace my fixed stock on the Oly Arms plinker plus I bought several years back with a magpul CTR. I find out after calling them that my buffer tube is commercial not MilSpec (should've guessed). Can you guys give me an idea of what I need to do to swap this BT with a new MilSpec? Can this be done without adverse effects? This is probably a newbie question but I've exhausted my search potential. Thanks in advance.
 
They are fully interchangeable. The castle nuts can be a bit of a pain as different manufacturers have different installation methods. Some will stake them which should be visible. A buddies RRA was installed with red loctite. If it won't break loose try some heat. Definitely start the process with a good stock wrench that grabs in at least a few locations. I think Brownells makes a decent one.
 
Much appreciated, I'm new to this customization thing. The only thing I've added so far is a drop in bottom rail, a foreward grip, and a blackhawk 3 point SWIFT that's in desperate need of replacing.
 
the better stocks are more available in the milspec version. new stocks are always released in milspec first, and often dont release the comm version for a long time.

just for clarification, your current extension (buffer tube) is, i'm guessing, a pinned collapsible? you said it's "fixed." if it's on an A1 extension, it wouldn't work to begin with.. the fixed stocks use a totally different length and design.

if it's a pinned telescoping stock, you'll need, as someone said, a castle nut wrench.. and as he also said, you'll want the new three-prong style, rather than a "spanner" (big hook with a catch on the tip). the spanners generally dont bite well enough to break through stakes and loctite. mount the receiver extension in the vise- rather than the receiver. this will keep all the stress off the receiver.. and for the amount of force that may be required, you can actually damage it. use a propane torch, like a benzomatic, to heat up the castle nut if it wont come off and it's not staked... red loctite turns to dust at something like 450 degrees, so you have to get it flame-hot. once the nut is hot enough to catch paper on fire (paper burns at 451 degrees), you know the loctite is not working against you.. but it still might take a great deal of effort. use both hands, one pulling and one pushing, depending on the wrench you go with.

when your new extension and castle nut are back on, make sure to stake the castle nut. LOCTITE is not necessary nor desireable.. just tighten and stake.

good luck~!
 
Your not too horribly far away. I don't know how Oly's CS is now, the guy I used to work with all the time left. So you might want to call first, but why not just drop by oly arms and see if you can get someone to swap it out for you there? They are just off of exit 114 on I-5.
 
According to Oly it's an A2 stock w/trapdoor. Don't know if that helps or not.


the better stocks are more available in the milspec version. new stocks are always released in milspec first, and often dont release the comm version for a long time.

just for clarification, your current extension (buffer tube) is, i'm guessing, a pinned collapsible? you said it's "fixed." if it's on an A1 extension, it wouldn't work to begin with.. the fixed stocks use a totally different length and design.

if it's a pinned telescoping stock, you'll need, as someone said, a castle nut wrench.. and as he also said, you'll want the new three-prong style, rather than a "spanner" (big hook with a catch on the tip). the spanners generally dont bite well enough to break through stakes and loctite. mount the receiver extension in the vise- rather than the receiver. this will keep all the stress off the receiver.. and for the amount of force that may be required, you can actually damage it. use a propane torch, like a benzomatic, to heat up the castle nut if it wont come off and it's not staked... red loctite turns to dust at something like 450 degrees, so you have to get it flame-hot. once the nut is hot enough to catch paper on fire (paper burns at 451 degrees), you know the loctite is not working against you.. but it still might take a great deal of effort. use both hands, one pulling and one pushing, depending on the wrench you go with.

when your new extension and castle nut are back on, make sure to stake the castle nut. LOCTITE is not necessary nor desireable.. just tighten and stake.

good luck~!

I've been meaning to head down there and check that out actually. The guy on the phone said they charge $45.00 an hour in the shop so I don't know. The rumous of their customer service is true by the way. When you call them up they're friendly at first, I guess they assume you want to buy something, but as soon as you ask a question you hear a sigh then a little attitude. I've gotten twice out of the two times I've caled. At least they're consistent :rolleyes:
Your not too horribly far away. I don't know how Oly's CS is now, the guy I used to work with all the time left. So you might want to call first, but why not just drop by oly arms and see if you can get someone to swap it out for you there? They are just off of exit 114 on I-5.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the replies.
 
According to Oly it's an A2 stock w/trapdoor. Don't know if that helps or not.

that means it'll be sooper easy. there's no castle nut to take off. all you do is unscrew the screw that fastens the stock to the receiver extension, pull the stock off, being careful of the takedown detent and spring that this will release in the end of the receiver, then use any ol' wrench to twist the receiver extension off. this will release the buffer retention pin and spring in the receiver, so dont lose them. make sure you remove the buffer and spring first.

things you'll need, since you won't already have them with the A2 stock- castle nut, end-plate (might be a good time to learn about burnsed loops and other end-plate single attachments), milspec receiver extension (buffer tube), CARBINE spring, H buffer, and, of course, the stock.
 
That's great news, I was sweating it there for a second. Man this forum is so much better than ar15.com. Every time somebody mentions Olympic Arms on there you get 200 replies saying "OLYMPIC ARMS!? ARE YOU RETARDED!? GO GET AN insert their rifle here (usually a bushmaster)." Don't know if this is the case in all their rifles but mine has a tight mag well and maybe this was during the break in period but mine would double feed like crazy on USGI mags. I've heard people who swear by them, and I've heard people who wouldn't use one to save their own lives. I also hear they make the best barrels and are super accurate. I haven't compared mine to any other brands but it seems on target for the most part. What do you guys think?

that means it'll be sooper easy. there's no castle nut to take off. all you do is unscrew the screw that fastens the stock to the receiver extension, pull the stock off, being careful of the takedown detent and spring that this will release in the end of the receiver, then use any ol' wrench to twist the receiver extension off. this will release the buffer retention pin and spring in the receiver, so dont lose them. make sure you remove the buffer and spring first.

things you'll need, since you won't already have them with the A2 stock- castle nut, end-plate (might be a good time to learn about burnsed loops and other end-plate single attachments), milspec receiver extension (buffer tube), CARBINE spring, H buffer, and, of course, the stock.
 
oly does not make a very good AR... they're definitely not hard-use weapons. its pretty funny that people would rip on you for buying an oly, but then say you should have bought a bushmaster, though. they're very similar in the production and assembly shortcuts they take, and the problems they have.

you've been told right about their barrels.. they do seem make a pretty accurate barrel, and really pride themselves on it.

almost any AR can be improved, however.. and not everyone buys an AR for home defense, combat, duty, etc.. some people buy them for the sole purpose of range duty. and an oly, if you're getting a good deal, is perfectly adequate for that.

for the best AR15 information available on the internet, check out my home site: www.m4carbine.net
 
What would you reccomend for a down and dirty SHTF combat AR? I want something I can trust my life to in a serious pinch that can stand up to the rigors of combat and not break apart on me.

oly does not make a very good AR... they're definitely not hard-use weapons. its pretty funny that people would rip on you for buying an oly, but then say you should have bought a bushmaster, though. they're very similar in the production and assembly shortcuts they take, and the problems they have.

you've been told right about their barrels.. they do seem make a pretty accurate barrel, and really pride themselves on it.

almost any AR can be improved, however.. and not everyone buys an AR for home defense, combat, duty, etc.. some people buy them for the sole purpose of range duty. and an oly, if you're getting a good deal, is perfectly adequate for that.

for the best AR15 information available on the internet, check out my home site: www.m4carbine.net
 
to give you some stuff to look into; BCM, LMT, Colt, Noveske Rifleworks, and KAC can all be considered the best of the best.. for a "fighting" carbine, these guys are the champions. Colt, LMT and KAC are bonified "tier 1" manufacturers, with millions of combat rounds fired between them, while Noveske and BCM produce weapons of, in my opinion, even better than Tier 1 quality. Noveske produces the best of the best barrels, and couples them with hand-selected CMT small parts, and BCM manufacturers almost all their parts to TDP-compliance minimum, often exceeding TDP requirements for Tier 1 selection.

there's a lot to all this, and it probably seems like voodoo at first, but it's all learnable. i highly recommend putting in a few months' worth of research before making your purchase.. that website i referred you to is a mass of compiled data and professional opinion. i won't hesitate to state that i know a **** of a lot about ARs- but there's guys that make me look like an FNG active on that board.

good places to start: http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=7009
 
What would you reccomend for a down and dirty SHTF combat AR? I want something I can trust my life to in a serious pinch that can stand up to the rigors of combat and not break apart on me.

BCM. :s0155:

Others will fit the bill, of course. LMT, Colt, Noveske...

But BCM is the name of the game right now. Great prices on great quality.
 
GO GET AN insert their rifle here (usually a bushmaster).

Nein, Nein, Nein!!!

Never trust a gun made by a company that sounds like it should be selling rhododendrons...:s0114:

I would also add Next Generation Arms to that tier 1 list. While still a relatively new and small player in the AR game, their gear is top notch. I own one and I think it would hold its own with any of the big boys. And its local (as is Noveske).
 
It's settled then, I'll research BCM (saw KAC's on the art of the dynamic carbine 1 & 2) and sell the plinker towards buying something that works. This puts alot in perspective, why try and trick out a sub standard weapon right? You guys rock by the way.
 
glad to help :s0155:

Been looking at the KAC's, BCM's, and Noveske's. While I like the solid one piece uppers on Noveske N4's the price tag has me cringing a little. Finding complete BCM's is kind of a pain in the neck but not undoable. On m4carbine I saw an N4 for $1750 shipped though so it looks like there is light at the end of the tunnel. It's becoming a nail biter decision lol! I'm also looking at the mid length carbine for longer range and higher velocity. Either way if I go with one of the two or even a hybrid I'll be GTG when Obama zombies attack :D And I thought the AR15 dilemma would never end. So this is what I'm thinking for my next build trying to keep it as much of a KISS rifle as possible (no mall ninja here). Either an N4 or BCM mid length, aimpoint t-1 and 3x magnifier on a larue swivel, troy BUIS, magpul MIAD grip, magpul milspec CTR with ASAP sling mount, magpul MS2 sling, Vortex flash hider or KAC can, tango down vert grip, and maybe a piston drop in from CMMG or Adams Arms. Tall order I know but what do you think? Fast, light, reliable is what I'm going for. btw bk what's your username on m4carbine?
 
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