Removing Rubberized Coating on Red Dot??

[2A2Dend]

I wound up using eye glass cleaning wipes. Flents, Wipe'N Clear to remove the rubberized coating. It was somewhat of an effort, but they worked well.

Scrape as much of the goo off as you can before using the wipes.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I did one this weekend. I picked up a rubber coated optic for a cheep price I couldn't pass up. I soaked it down with Naval jelly for about 1/2 hour and was able to scrape most of it off. I then re applied the jelly, let it sit and used a soft brass wire wheel on my drill to strip the rest! worked really well! After a good clean up with isopropal alcohol, I media blasted it with corn husk and nut shells. Looks nice and can now be finished to match the rifle I got it for! Don't know if the sight is any good, but was cheep enough to take a chance on!

 

[ZigZagZeke]

I haven't tried contacting Tasco, but it's worth a shot.

Any chance that the brass wheel/brush would damage the metal underneath? I've not used one of those on a product like this before.

If the metal underneath is aluminum a brass brush wheel will damage it.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Regardless of whether Kroil works to remove rubber it is something well worth adding to any metal or gun smiths box of tricks.

Kroil is the absolute best penetrating oil there is. We used it extensively in power plant maintenance. Our machinists used it on the nuts on 2" (thread diameter) turbine casing nuts where even a slugging wrench and a sledge hammer wouldn't move them. If you see something called Aero-Kroil that's just regular Kroil in a spray can. I will never be without some Kroil in my shop.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

Where do you get that Kroil? I have never heard of it or seen it any where. I have had good luck with PB Blaster and Zep 45 for rust busting and penatrating, IF there is something better then those I would love to try it!

Kroil is better.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

gasoline?

No, no no!!! Absolutely not! Way too dangerous! I've never permitted open gasoline in my shop after we lost a whole racing shop and two race cars, and nearly a crew member because of it.

Somebody disassembled a carburetor and put the pieces in a small plastic tub. Just the amount of gas that was in the carb was laying in the bottom of the tub, maybe 12 ounces max. Somebody else came along and took the tub off the work bench and put it on the cement floor.

Meanwhile someone was doing some welding on a frame and one of the sparks bounced across the floor and ignited the vapors coming off the tub. The result was a plastic tub about 12" x 24" with maybe a 1/8" of gasoline burning inside it. We all rushed for the fire extinguishers except one of us. He walked over and attempted to carry the plastic tub outside. As he lifted it the hot plastic melted right through his fingers and he dropped the tub from about 2 feet off the floor. Flaming gasoline splashed everywhere including onto him. We dragged him outside and sprayed him down with a water hose as the shop was fully engulfed. Tools, tires, oxy-acetylene rigs, fiberglass body parts made for a hot fire, and a crew member was left with lifelong scarring and disabilities, all in just a few minutes.

I don't permit open gasoline in any quantity in my shop at any time for any purpose. Please learn from my experience.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

lacquer thinner

Tasco world class put a nice rubber coating on a few of their scope a number of years ago.. Yep it started breaking down after awhile. Lacquer thinner takes the coating right off...

As with gasoline, be VERY careful with lacquer thinner.

 

[etrain16]

As with gasoline, be VERY careful with lacquer thinner.

I've been using lacquer thinner in small amounts, to remove the rubber coating, it seems to work well. I am cautious only to use it outside, and away from any potential ignition sources. I do the same thing with any solvent type cleaner.