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decided to reload 60 grain nosler soft point min load to start, 3 rounds where all over the target all where low left center and to the right, same gun with 60 grain hornady v max 3 rounds 2in circle 200 yds, should i change powder or increase the load to max?
I experimented last week with shooting ammo that I did not crimp,just loaded them singly in my marlin levergun.
I had read on the web that' you don't need to crimp rifle ammo.'
bull hockey. my shots were a foot apart all over the paper.
shot the crimped rounds and they tightened up to 1".
most seater dies have a crimp ring built in,are you crimping your rounds any ? I'll bef if u do things weill impove dramatically.
it's actually best to crimp in a seperate step,way easiirt to fine tune the depth and crimp when using 2 dies for those steps.
please tell us what you did step by step to load this ammo.
cleaned brass resized to lymans specs
primed
loaded powder
inserted bullet to lymans specs
measured head neck and shoulder to specs
went to range and fired 5 rounds.
rem 7 22-250
also how do i know what my rifle chamber length is for seating the bullet to correct length
lever action ammo MUST ALWAYS BE CRIMPED! In fact, this is the #1 issue for lever actions, especially pistol caliber rifles, I've gone to great lengths and as a standard, any round fired through a lever gun should take a minimum of 100lbs of force to push the bullet back into the case. (this is with a crimp mind you) Bolt actions, and other magazine fed rifles don't have this issue, but anything tube fed requires tight crimping!
Under these circumstances, try backing off the crimp, in bolt action rifles, the crimp can cause other issues, especially if it is deep enough to cut into the bullet.
i am already to the max 2.350 lyman spec book
lever action ammo MUST ALWAYS BE CRIMPED
not if you single load,as I said I did.
other than that I do inded crimp all rounds going into a tube mag.
the op's post hasn't mentioned whether he's set the seater die to set a crimp,and I wonder if he has ??
would this be a head space gauge?Guess I must have missed that part. Not really sure why you got such poor performance then, I know the groups out of my .308 tightened up when I stopped crimping so aggressively. I know this can also be a function of the type of powder (I typically use varget which is somewhat sub-optimal in .30-30). I have also seen rounds (.45 Colt Esp!) which if the crimp is inconsistent or omitted causes really erratic performance, even with known good loads.
But back to the topic at hand, I think there's some kind of crimping issue outstanding here, under normal circumstances, a good load will not suddenly go to pot when the bullet changes, a POI change is expected, and the groups may be different, but I have never seen a group double in size unless the bullets were of really poor quality (Happened to me once when I got a bunch of pulled vicker's machinegun bullets for my .303 brit).
If you're interested in finding out what the min/max length is of the throat of your gun, brownells sells tools for that. Typically it looks like a cartridge case that instead of having a primer pocket, it has a female thread, which you put on the end of a cleaning rod. This is the baseline for where your throat becomes too tight for you to load rounds without forcing the bullet into the rifling. There are about a dozen schools of thought on whether you should put the bullet right into the rifling, or what jump you should have. I avoid this condition and load to standard cartridge OAL, as loading nearer the throat tends to spike pressures if you're right on it. Pressure spiking is bad because it does so inconsistently, not to mention the potential damage to the shooter and firearm.
prkgrp,
No, one of these:
Midsouth*HORNADY RELOADING TOOLS*LOCK-N-LOAD A-22-250 REMINGTON MODIFIED CASE
would this be a head space gauge?
You can find the chamber throat depth by lightly seating a bullet into a sized (but unprimed) case as far out as it will go. Make sure the bullet can move into the neck without a lot of resistance. Some people slit the case - I've never found it necessary. Chamber the round (gently!) and the bullet will be pushed back into the case when the bullet touches the lands. Take the cartridge out and measure it. You should never have a cartridge that is closer to the lands than .05" unless you are very experienced (and have the tools to measure it). Subtract your desired seating distance from your measurement and you have your cartridge length. Often, this "max" length is longer than your magazine will allow, so you will need to check that as well.
In reality, you are using overall length as a substitute for where the bullet's ogive contacts the lands. If you really want to be picky, put some marker on the bullet and chamber the test round. You'll see the point on the ogive where the bullet contacts the lands.
Other than for true Weatherbys, I've found the best accuracy often comes .050"-.080" off the lands and not at maximum velocity. A good place to start load development is with the "most accurate load tested" in Lyman's 49th.