Reloading ? ( primers being pulled and used from blanks)

[GI JEW 555]

So the primer situation is what it is and don't see it getting any better over night. Wanted to know if this would work or any issues to be aware of.

Hypothetical Question 1- Wondering if a guy could pull Primers from blank 5.56 , 7.62 or any other caliber for that matter. Could those primers than be reused? Blanks have a standard primer only issue I see is the wax and crap that's in there no. Any advice on this one?

Not hypothetical Question -2 I think the safest way to decommission live primers would be a little wd-40 press out with a sizing die and have some Safety glasses just in case thoughts ? Any other advice , tricks on this one, or am I going the wrong way about this ?

If for any reason I missed this question somewhere please refer me to it and I'll close the post. However, I wasn't able to find anything on this one?

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[Certaindeaf]

So the primer situation is what it is and don't see it getting any better over night. Wanted to know if this would work or any issues to be aware of.

Hypothetical Question 1- Wondering if a guy could pull Primers from blank 5.56 , 7.62 or any other caliber for that matter. Could those primers than be reused? Blanks have a standard primer only issue I see is the wax and crap that's in there no. Any advice on this one?

Not hypothetical Question -2 I think the safest way to decommission live primers would be a little wd-40 press out with a sizing die and have some Safety glasses just in case thoughts ? Any other advice , tricks on this one, or am I going the wrong way about this ?

If for any reason I missed this question somewhere please refer me to it and I'll close the post. However, I wasn't able to find anything on this one?

I'm pretty sure they'd be military, hence have crimped primers. Good luck removing them without destroying/discharging them.

 

[GI JEW 555]

I'm pretty sure they'd be military, hence have crimped primers. Good luck removing them without destroying/discharging them.

Understand it's not going to be an easy tasking . I was thinking maybe a primer pocket reamer? Just wanted to know if anyone has ever done it?

 

[red442joe]

You'd be better off trying to iron out the case mouth and reload them, however... don't blanks use a different kind of "primer"?

Joe

 

[GI JEW 555]

You'd be better off trying to iron out the case mouth and reload them, however... don't blanks use a different kind of "primer"?

Joe

I'm pretty sure they have a standard primer however they are crimped.

 

[red442joe]

I'm thinking about the "star" crimp at the case mouth.
Admittedly I don't know much about blanks but they seem to be more powerful than just a primer. Is there some amout of some kind of powder in them? It doesn't seem likely that an AR type rifle with a BFD would cycle with just a primer. Also, seems unlikely that there would be a whole 'nother type of primer just for blanks.

Joe

 

[GI JEW 555]

Is there some amout of some kind of powder in them? It doesn't seem likely that an AR type rifle with a BFD would cycle with just a primer. Also, seems unlikely that there would be a whole 'nother type of primer just for blanks.

Blanks have a powder in them and to my knowledge they burns extremely hot. That makes me a little iffy for sure. The crimp or star at the front is where your cardboard / wax is if I'm not mistaken. I could be completely wrong on all of this though. Really not trying to blow my self up as I'm in no means very knowledgeable on blanks either.

 

[GI JEW 555]

I'm thinking about the "star" crimp at the case mouth.
Admittedly I don't know much about blanks but they seem to be more powerful than just a primer. Is there some amout of some kind of powder in them? It doesn't seem likely that an AR type rifle with a BFD would cycle with just a primer. Also, seems unlikely that there would be a whole 'nother type of primer just for blanks.

Joe

Quote didn't go above for some reason.

 

[Member 34319]

Why not just get a can cannon and instead of shooting bullets with a crazy process of reloading using dismantled blanks, you can shoot 12 ounce slugs at a slightly reduced FPS.

Blanks have regular primers and a small charge of powder. I couldn't tell you what powder, but it resembles pistol powder more than rifle.

I've dismantled one that did not go bang.

The soda was grateful, for just a moment.

 

[GI JEW 555]

Why not just get a can cannon and instead of shooting bullets with a crazy process of reloading using dismantled blanks, you can shoot 12 ounce slugs at a slightly reduced FPS.

Blanks have regular primers and a small charge of powder. I couldn't tell you what powder, but it resembles pistol powder more than rifle.

I've dismantled one that did not go bang.

The soda was grateful, for just a moment.

I'm sure much more fun and a little easier of a process. It was just more of a worse case scenario and wondering if anyone had attempted it and what the process / results were. You don't know what you don't know.

 

[JuglansRegia]

If things got that bad for me, l would just pay the going rate for primers, it just sounds like way to much work for questionable results.

 

[gmerkt]

It's a lot of work to deconstruct blanks to salvage primers. But it can be done.

1. DO NOT USE BLANK POWDER TO FIRE SOLID PROJECTILES. Blank powder is much faster and to try to use it to fire real bullets could lead to damage and/or injury.

2. You'd have to cut the crimp (or on older 7.62 NATO, the narrowed snout) off the case in order to decap the live primer. If I were going to do this, I'd use a pipe cutter below the shoulder, cartridge head held in a vise. It's got to be done in such a way as to allow the decapping pin free travel through the case to the primer. Be sure to clean up spilled powder.

3. All the reloading manuals tell you not to decap live primers. For reasons of safety. Yet it can be done successfully. Using a decapping die (the Lee version is effective and probably the least expensive), you lower the ram slowly until you can just feel the pin stop against the primer. Then carefully and slowly press it out. Don't bump it quickly. Make sure your decapped primer catcher is in place.

4. Re-cycled, live primers may or may not fit properly in primer pockets after being seated a second time. You don't know until you try it. Due to tiny variations in the cartridge brass being used. Remember, those military blanks usually have primers crimped in. This may cause a slight narrowing effect when you decap them live.

5. Wear safety glasses if you attempt this work. There isn't a great deal of danger involved if a live primer detonates while being decapped in a press this way. The cartridge case is face up, but inside a decapping die which would reverse any exhaust from the detonation. There is always the chance of tiny, flying debris.

6. Do this at your own risk.

7. From what I've seen, the live blanks are worth something in their own right, might be more valuable sold on Gun Broker than as a tiresome source of recycled primers.

 

[GI JEW 555]

If things got that bad for me, l would just pay the going rate for primers, it just sounds like way to much work for questionable results.

Although I appreciate all the input on my post, it was not about the price of primers or how time consuming it would be, more of a hypothetical "can this even be done and has anyone tried it" type question.

 

[GI JEW 555]

It's a lot of work to deconstruct blanks to salvage primers. But it can be done.

1. DO NOT USE BLANK POWDER TO FIRE SOLID PROJECTILES. Blank powder is much faster and to try to use it to fire real bullets could lead to damage and/or injury.

2. You'd have to cut the crimp (or on older 7.62 NATO, the narrowed snout) off the case in order to decap the live primer. If I were going to do this, I'd use a pipe cutter below the shoulder, cartridge head held in a vise. Be sure to clean up spilled powder.

3. All the reloading manuals tell you not to decap live primers. For reasons of safety. Yet it can be done successfully. Using a decapping die (the Lee version is effective and probably the least expensive), you lower the ram slowly until you can just feel the pin stop against the primer. Then carefully and slowly press it out. Don't bump it quickly. Make sure your decapped primer catcher is in place.

4. Re-cycled, live primers may or may not fit properly in primer pockets after being seated a second time. You don't know until you try it. Due to tiny variations in the cartridge brass being used. Remember, those military blanks usually have primers crimped in. This may cause a slight narrowing effect when you decap them live.

5. Wear safety glasses if you attempt this work. There isn't a great deal of danger involved if a live primer detonates while being decapped in a press this way. The cartridge case is face up, but inside a decapping die which would reverse any exhaust from the detonation. There is always the chance of tiny, flying debris.

6. Do this at your own risk.

7. From what I've seen, the live blanks are worth something in their own right, might be more valuable sold on Gun Broker than as a tiresome source of recycled primers.

Thank you this is exactly the information and knowledge I was looking for .

 

[gmerkt]

Thank you this is exactly the information and knowledge I was looking for .

You're welcome.

Not just primers salvaged from blanks, but live primers decapped from previously reloaded ammunition. For example. As I said above, you don't know they are gonna fit right again after being seated a second time. I hate loose primers because the can lead to leaks. And leaks can lead to bolt or breech face damage. The plasma-like gases leaking from a failed primer can cut right into steel.

I admit to having reused salvaged primers in days gone by but not often these days. Because I am very choosy about fit. If they feel even a little bit loose when reseated, I set those cases aside and decap them again. I won't think, "close enough" and let them go by. Same thing with fired brass being reprimed with new primers. If I have a case that feels like it has a loose primer pocket, it gets kicked out. I may fuss around with later it and see if a different brand primer fits tighter. Which it sometimes does. But I won't use ammo with loose primers whatever the cause. I won't re-stake primer pockets either, like some "remanufacturers" will do as a band-aid to save brass. It's not worth it.

Burning bolts in rifles, recoil plates in revolvers, or slide breech faces in pistols is expensive. More than risking failed primers is worth.